Winter Riding - Fooled into thinking my clutch-pads were fouled

GoldenMotor.com

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
I just wanted to share an experience I'd had over the past 2-weeks. I live in the North Eastern US, and we've been experiencing a harsher Winter than we're used to. I started motorized bicycle riding in Fall 2012, and have used my bike as a primary means of transport since: ALL seasons and weather. I fared well last Winter, so when I experienced annoying problems with my clutch engaging THIS Winter, I assumed that since the engine's been exposed to more slush and such than last-year, that my pads were getting too much moisture or that I might have blown a clutch-side gasket. Well, my clutch-compartment was a LITTLE moist, so brake-cleanered it, dried everything out, readjusted the star-nut and lever-arm...I even re-knurled the clutch-plate tightened the shaft-spring. No improvement. So...my clutch would engage, but not fully: starting could be a real pain in the ass, and there was a good deal of slipping up hills and during heavier acceleration. I found that I could force the lever-arm to fully engage the clutch...it required a minimum of effort too, so now I know why they include that long, skinny spring you're meant to place on the clutch-cable between the arm and the cable-post (didn't install it!). On closer inspection, I found that my clutch-cable was being restricted by moisture...the water in the sheath was consistently frozen, and was hindering the clutch's full engagement. I cleaned and re-oiled the cable/sheath, and although the clutch engagement improved, it STILL slipped. I'd then tightened the clutch-spring to its functional limit...STILL NO RELIEF! I was going nucking futs. Thinking that the spring had lost its effectiveness (somehow), I was nonplussed imagining that I'd have to split the case of a really excellently running engine just to replace the thing. Well...as a last-ditch effort, I imagined I might be able to increase plate-pressure by jogging the clutch-shaft towards the sprocket-side (I was desperate). Lo and behold: my bucking-bar hole and poor li'l ball-bearing were dry and showing the first signs of rust. My heart broke: I'd neglected my baby's needs...I hadn't greased that hole in AGES and forgot all about it. After a dollop of grease I reassembled the clutch parts and exercised the lever-arm...it was like night and day. I had gotten so used to the clutch being tight, I hadn't realized how effortlessly a well maintained bucking-bar assembly operates. So, I could have avoided WEEKS of frustration if I'd only remembered that simple maintenance procedure. DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO _YOU_!
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
1,581
6
38
Central Illinois
Very interesting.....

I haven't given thought to those parts in a while. Plus my clutch is just a bit hard to control. It hasn't been terrible, but I've noticed it.

I'll have to have a look in there.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
If you want to see even more improvement in your clutch action try this:

Removed the bucking bar and the cam from the clutch actuator cover. Using a Dremel with a sanding disc round off and smooth the edge of the cam where it contacts the bucking bar. Don't take off too much material, just enough to take the sharp edge off and then, if you have one, use a bench grinder with a buffing wheel and polish the area where you sanded the cam.
Do the same to the end of the bucking bar that contacts the cam. Round the edges off and give the end a slightly conical look then polish it. Lubricate all the parts with a good grade of bearing grease and reassemble.
I think you'll be amazed at the reduction of clutch pull pressure and the smoothness with which the clutch parts work.

As for that small spring. I have a box full of them. They actually serve no useful purpose but to make the clutch harder to pull.

Tom