Broken front mount stud help.

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ProMcCown

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Mar 21, 2012
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So I was a newbie and decided to loctite the mount studs (stock chinese studs) and used way to much loctite and ended up hydro-locking the stud which caused the stud to snap. I tried using a left handed drill bit and it didn't grab. So then I tried using an easy out but it also doesn't grab. I turn the bit and nothing happens except I make the hole a little bigger. So I need to look into other options. I was wondering if I could jb weld a smaller bolt in the whole I made in the stud and and try to take it out that way? I've never used jb weld and wonder if it would be strong enough to handle the job. Or should I try and have someone tack weld a smaller bolt in the whole I made to get it out? I figure if jb weld works it would be cheaper. It snapped flush with motor also, pic included. Any advice is appreciated.



 

50BUCKS

New Member
Jul 31, 2011
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Omaha Nebraska
I would try another size easy out or get some heli coil. The easy out shouldn't have any problems with the china stud.No way with the jb weld, heli coil is the way to go, cheap, easy, and strong.
 

50BUCKS

New Member
Jul 31, 2011
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Omaha Nebraska
Get another size easy out and some heli coil. No way on the JB weld,Heli coil is made for this kind of problem, cheap, easy, and strong.
 

BigBlue

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Nov 29, 2011
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ProMcCown,

you've probably drilled the hole too big and that's why the Easyout isn't working - the bolt keeps expanding into the threads, defeating the purpose of the Easyout. Be careful of breaking off the Easyout.

Here might be your best solution is to use an alternative mount from forum member AI.Fisherman:

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=35936

Good Luck,

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 

MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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So then I tried using an easy out but it also doesn't grab. I was wondering if I could jb weld a smaller bolt in the whole I made in the stud and and try to take it out that way? I've never used jb weld and wonder if it would be strong enough to handle the job. Or should I try and have someone tack weld a smaller bolt in the whole I made to get it out? I figure if jb weld works it would be cheaper.
Don't use JB weld as it won't hold.

Welding might have worked before you drilled out most of the stud.

Looks like you drilled the stud out evenly so keep going and drill all
or most of the stud out and re-tap the hole.

If you take your time and do it carefully you won't have to butcher
up your motor like what was suggested in the post above.

I don't have to say to use higher grade studs this time right? :)
 
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KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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I had that happen once way back except it broke off inside 1/4".
Though cheesy studs they are much harder than the cast motor case and after hours of trying to drill it out on the bike I was taking out more motor case than stud.

I ended up pulling the motor off, jiging it in my drill press and drilling the whole thing bigger.
Then I tapped it for a larger short bolt, got a SBP front mount, drilled it out to match the new bolt size on that side and mounted the bracket on.
The SBP muffler clamp did the 'holding it to the bike' part and with two short bolts to hold the bracket it didn't fail as far as I know the bike is still running to this day.

The bottom line however a broken stud sucks so I feel for you.
 

ProMcCown

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Mar 21, 2012
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Thanks all for the info.

MotorBicycleRacing, is there a certain size I need to tape the whole in order to use the same size mount studs? And no you don't have to tell me to use higher grade studs from now on haha, I got the hardware kit from sbp shortly after this whole dilemma came about.
 

ProMcCown

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Mar 21, 2012
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I had that happen once way back except it broke off inside 1/4".
Though cheesy studs they are much harder than the cast motor case and after hours of trying to drill it out on the bike I was taking out more motor case than stud.

I ended up pulling the motor off, jiging it in my drill press and drilling the whole thing bigger.
Then I tapped it for a larger short bolt, got a SBP front mount, drilled it out to match the new bolt size on that side and mounted the bracket on.
The SBP muffler clamp did the 'holding it to the bike' part and with two short bolts to hold the bracket it didn't fail as far as I know the bike is still running to this day.

The bottom line however a broken stud sucks so I feel for you.
Hmm this is another option I can do haha, I also have the front mount from sbp, the weird thing is it came with all different size bolts (length wise) but i'll have to check again and see if it same with two short bolts. I figured if I used the front mount studs supplied with the hardware kit it would eliminate the need for spacers to make it fit.
 

MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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MotorBicycleRacing, is there a certain size I need to tap the hole in order to use the same size mount studs?.
The standard studs are 6 mm 1.0 but you won't be able to tap
the threads on the same sized hole.

You are going to have to go with a larger diameter stud.
7mm or 8 mm or 5/16" so you are going to have to buy new
studs or allen head bolts too.

6 mm stripped holes can be tapped out to 1/4 20 by just
running the tap in without drilling but it's a bit of a mickey
mouse fix and I wouldn't recommend it for your case.
 

dracothered

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Jul 25, 2012
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Howell, MI.
I had that happen once way back except it broke off inside 1/4".
Though cheesy studs they are much harder than the cast motor case and after hours of trying to drill it out on the bike I was taking out more motor case than stud.

I ended up pulling the motor off, jiging it in my drill press and drilling the whole thing bigger.
Then I tapped it for a larger short bolt, got a SBP front mount, drilled it out to match the new bolt size on that side and mounted the bracket on.
The SBP muffler clamp did the 'holding it to the bike' part and with two short bolts to hold the bracket it didn't fail as far as I know the bike is still running to this day.

The bottom line however a broken stud sucks so I feel for you.
If you drill out the old stud you can re-tap the hole for a case saver heli coil for the size stud you need in there. Then use a good quality stud and put it all back together. This I feel is the only correct way to doing it right. If the case is screwed up then doing one of the other ways will work out too.
 

ProMcCown

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Mar 21, 2012
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The standard studs are 6 mm 1.0 but you won't be able to tap
the threads on the same sized hole.

You are going to have to go with a larger diameter stud.
7mm or 8 mm or 5/16" so you are going to have to buy new
studs or allen head bolts too.

6 mm stripped holes can be tapped out to 1/4 20 by just
running the tap in without drilling but it's a bit of a mickey
mouse fix and I wouldn't recommend it for your case.
Thanks I think will be my best option.
 

ProMcCown

New Member
Mar 21, 2012
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If you drill out the old stud you can re-tap the hole for a case saver heli coil for the size stud you need in there. Then use a good quality stud and put it all back together. This I feel is the only correct way to doing it right. If the case is screwed up then doing one of the other ways will work out too.
Or there is this option, so many options! haha
 

JonnyR

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May 13, 2012
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i have had bad experiences with heli coils in engines in the past i had a stud brake 2 times in a hole with one in it they are if you cant get the larger bolt to fit through what you are doing and need to stay at a particular size like my issue was a alternator bolt on my elcamino where it went into the head it broke 2 times and i was able to get the stud out when i had the heli coil come out with it thats when i realized it was in there some mickey mouse mechanic did it before i bought the car thats when i got threaded rod made my own stud and drilled out the alternator to fit the larger diameter it was done after that no more problems now im putting a new motor in her but it was still holding when i took it out
 

ProMcCown

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Mar 21, 2012
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I think what I'll do is just drill the stud out and retap it one size bigger, then I can drill the hole in the sbp front mount a little bigger to compensate for a larger stud.
 

BigBlue

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Nov 29, 2011
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Be careful when you drill to one size bigger, you are pretty close to the edge and you might end up with a mickey mouse repair job! A 7mm X 1 requires a 6mm hole. Make sure the tap is centered, co you don't get too close to the edge or you might end up with a crack down the road.


Good Luck,

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 
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ProMcCown

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Mar 21, 2012
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Thanks BigBlue, tomorrow I'm heading to HarborFreight to use that 20% off coupon to get the metric size tap and die set and 6mm bit. I am planning on going up to the 7mm x 1 size for that exact reason. I just hope this all works out for the best haha I want to get back to riding this thing before the weather turns bad again.
 

ProMcCown

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Mar 21, 2012
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Well my brother came by today and told me that the easy out I have is pretty dull and doesn't look like its in good enough shape to grab and back out the stud. He has some that he'll let me try that are sharper. So I'll try that and if it doesn't work still then I'll drill and tap it to 7mm.
 

MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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Well my brother came by today and told me that the easy out I have is pretty dull and doesn't look like its in good enough shape to grab and back out the stud. He has some that he'll let me try that are sharper. So I'll try that and if it doesn't work still then I'll drill and tap it to 7mm.
Be VERY careful that you don't snap the easy out off because you will be really screwed. :D

The only good easy outs especially in the small sizes are the square ones.

Remember that you have blue loctite on the stud which is going to make it harder to
remove the broken stud.
 

ProMcCown

New Member
Mar 21, 2012
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Be VERY careful that you don't snap the easy out off because you will be really screwed. :D

The only good easy outs especially in the small sizes are the square ones.

Remember that you have blue loctite on the stud which is going to make it harder to
remove the broken stud.
Thanks, is there any method I can use to possibly soften up the loctite?