OP Roller...need some help!

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CardInSpokes

New Member
Jun 3, 2011
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Northeast
Hi all! I'm installing a 49cc Skyhawk kit from gasbikes and I have a few questions on the rear sproket / rag joint assembly for this particular bike:

With the two rubber gaskets sandwitching the spokes the sproket will no longer actually be on the hub....is this correct? The thickness of the gasket between the sproket and the spokes is too thick to allow it to slide onto the hub. If I tighten everything down after it it's properly centered will this be enough?

Also, anyone have any issues with the 415 chain rubbing the stock tires with this assembly? Or do I need to get more narrow treads?

Thanks!
 

hotbug1776

New Member
Apr 7, 2011
49
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Pennsylvania
my 415 rubbed, went with a 1.75 rear tire. it bugs me, but, everyone else thinks the bike is awesome. A 2" or 1.95" will clear.
I'm on my second bike build now, it's like heroin, no, worse.
 

CardInSpokes

New Member
Jun 3, 2011
9
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Northeast
Thanks guys!

How well has your stock chain held up biknut?

Hotbug, If I need to drop to a thinner tire will the stock rim work fine?

Thanks!
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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Dallas
How well has your stock chain held up biknut?

Thanks!
The bike belongs to my best friend. He hasn't had any problems with the chain. It took me about 3 hours to get the sprocket straight and true on the wheel.

I think most peoples problems with chain brakeage is caused by misalignment issues. Considering how difficult it is to get it right, I can understand why it happens so much.

If I had it to do over again, I'd buy a hub adapter and sprocket from Pirate.
 

Geezer

Member
May 2, 2011
94
1
8
Illinois
I've got a little over 70miles on my stock chain & it seems to be fine... (probly just jinxed myself)

the rear tire will work (at least mine did)... i just had to adjust everything to get it to clear. i tried to
add an extra set of the metal plates that come with the rag joint as spacers to get the sprocket out further... but decided not to, 'cause you'd have to bend the coaster brake arm to get it to clear the
bolts on the sproket.

i hear ya biknut... i've got a lot of hours in my rear wheel & will def be using an adapter on the next one.

not sure if it was on a Roller but someone on here had a post about cutting the cap over the hub down as apposed to making the center hole in the sprockt bigger... i had already made mine bigger but may try it on my next build (yup, i'm an addict too) lol ...i need to find that post.

gl with your build Card... these things are a lotta fun (building and riding)




The highyway's lime jello & i'm a BBQ'd oyster.... usflg
 
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Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
I have built four o/p cruisers, olny had to open up one sprocket. As for the rag joint i found that with the one that came with the kit ofset the chain, so I made the outside joint out off 1/4 thick conveyor belt. The belt is the same woven rubber material only better! Made in the U.S.A.
One of my friends has been riding his bike to and from work for six weeks, over five hundred miles on stock chain.
 
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Helen Weals

New Member
Jun 18, 2011
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penns woods
OK thanks. Ocean Pacific. Then I guess I have a Cranny Roller with a China Girl.If I read the Chinglish instructions correctly, one or both of the rubbers can be used.I used one with lock nuts and used a torque wrench to tighten, then backed up lock nuts with regular nuts using locktight. The sprocket runs true to the front spocket.Only had to dent fender slightly for clearance. I think my kit did not come with heavy duty chain
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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OK thanks. Ocean Pacific. Then I guess I have a Cranny Roller with a China Girl.If I read the Chinglish instructions correctly, one or both of the rubbers can be used.I used one with lock nuts and used a torque wrench to tighten, then backed up lock nuts with regular nuts using locktight. The sprocket runs true to the front spocket.Only had to dent fender slightly for clearance. I think my kit did not come with heavy duty chain
You have to use 2. One on each side of the spokes.
 

ckangaroo70

Active Member
May 13, 2011
864
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Central Illinois
I actually just left my dust cap off and did not enlarge the sprocket hole. I let it ride to the outside and clamped it down there because it actually provided more clearance leaving it out there. I have about 100 miles on my Roller now and I have never thrown a chain and I think I must have gotten it centered pretty well as it seems to operate pretty smooth. I just filled the hole where the dust cap was supposed to be with a large dose of white lithium grease. This does attract dirt to the outer layer of the grease, but I have it on so thick that as long as it is left undisturbed..no dirt or dust will reach the bearings. However I may flush it out after another 100 miles with acetone and then put on some fresh grease. I am not saying the way I did mine is the best way, but I can say it has worked well for me thus far, but maybe tommorow I may be cussing up a storm!LOL
 

Mike B

New Member
Mar 23, 2011
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Central CA
My "rubbers" were so uneven that I cut them both to make 1 of uniform thickness. I took the sprocket to a machine shop and had them cut the center hole to fit the dustcap. I used the cut rubbers inside the spokes with the 3 hole plates and I used the 5/4 holes plates to space the sprocket off the spokes.

Works great.

I wouldn't do this if I didn't first get a steel wheel with 12g steel spokes though.

That's why the back wheel looks so odd. Not to mention the 26x2 tire so the chain didn't hit the tire.
 

hotbug1776

New Member
Apr 7, 2011
49
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Pennsylvania
You have to use 2. One on each side of the spokes.
I put both on the inside... I've got less than 1/8" before the bolt head meets the coaster arm, so, spacing on the outside of the spokes was not an option.
On my next build, I'm not using the stock rim (going with a 20") so spacing shouldn't be an option.
 

ckangaroo70

Active Member
May 13, 2011
864
126
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Central Illinois
Yea...I forgot about that. My sprocket bolt heads clear the coaster brake by about only 1/8" as well. I actually used my coaster brake as a guide to make sure the clearance was the same for each bolt head. This way I was certain there was no warp in sprocket.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,631
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Dallas
I put both on the inside... I've got less than 1/8" before the bolt head meets the coaster arm, so, spacing on the outside of the spokes was not an option.
On my next build, I'm not using the stock rim (going with a 20") so spacing shouldn't be an option.
You're supposed to bend the brake arm out of the way.

Your spokes won't last long if the sprocket is touching them.