So I'm putting a motor on my bike this weekend, any tips on getting the hang of riding the thing, things to watch out for, etc?
Riding tips for a newbie
- Thread starter TheNecromancer13
- Start date
Probably the most important riding tip we can offer is to ride as if you're invisible. That means riding and assuming that drivers will not see or respond to you. Never think that a driver of a car will yield to you or even respond as if you're there. Always assume that he/she will turn in front of you, cut you off or not allow enough room for you when passing.
Old motorcycle riders have lived with that threat for years and many will tell you the same thing. The problem is amplified when you're on a bicycle. Your speed will be higher than motorist are used to with pedal bikes and they will not anticipate your arrival at a point as quick as you'll get there.
Pretend you're invisible and ride accordingly and wear a DOT approved helmet.
Good luck, have fun and ride safe.
Tom
Old motorcycle riders have lived with that threat for years and many will tell you the same thing. The problem is amplified when you're on a bicycle. Your speed will be higher than motorist are used to with pedal bikes and they will not anticipate your arrival at a point as quick as you'll get there.
Pretend you're invisible and ride accordingly and wear a DOT approved helmet.
Good luck, have fun and ride safe.
Tom
So, basically, ride the same way I have been riding for years on a normal bike, anticipating that people will be stupid.
Although I was looking more for tips on operation, ie: best way to accelerate, how to use the clutch well, etc. I think I have defensive cycling down pretty well.
Okay, lets cover some basics.
Clutch: Your engine will perform better if you use the clutch, disengage it, whenever your speed is less than about 10MPH. When starting from a dead stop use your pedals and get above 10MPH before engaging the clutch. Same when coming to a stop. Squeeze the clutch lever when your speed drops below 10.
Keep a close watch on things like fasteners and brackets, especially in the first few hours of operation. Things will loosen due to vibration and heat/cool. Engine fasteners, particularly cylinder head bolts, intake and exhaust and carburetor to intake manifold are all places that normally will need some attention periodically.
Tire inflation, bearing lubrication, chain maintenance are also areas of concern but being a pedal bike rider these things you'll already be aware of.
If your bike has fenders, 'Beware'. They can hurt you. There are several good threads here addressing fender hazards and how to reinforce factory fender braces and attachments.
These are just a few and I'm sure other members will have more suggestions for you. Be patient.
Tom
Clutch: Your engine will perform better if you use the clutch, disengage it, whenever your speed is less than about 10MPH. When starting from a dead stop use your pedals and get above 10MPH before engaging the clutch. Same when coming to a stop. Squeeze the clutch lever when your speed drops below 10.
Keep a close watch on things like fasteners and brackets, especially in the first few hours of operation. Things will loosen due to vibration and heat/cool. Engine fasteners, particularly cylinder head bolts, intake and exhaust and carburetor to intake manifold are all places that normally will need some attention periodically.
Tire inflation, bearing lubrication, chain maintenance are also areas of concern but being a pedal bike rider these things you'll already be aware of.
If your bike has fenders, 'Beware'. They can hurt you. There are several good threads here addressing fender hazards and how to reinforce factory fender braces and attachments.
These are just a few and I'm sure other members will have more suggestions for you. Be patient.
Tom
One thing that comes to my mind is that the bicycle will beat up on you more, probably, than you realize. It's worse than on a pedal bike. And the reverse is true; you'll beat up on the bicycle more than you would beat up on a pedal bicycle.
The reason is that you'll be able to go over more rough terrain at a higher average speed.
I doubt that I'm articulate enough to tell you just how to minimize this. But I can put it in general terms; learn how to roll with the punches.
One piece of advice that I can give is to go a bit slower than you might be imagining. Think of your bike as a putt-putt, not a speed machine. Your average speed over several miles will be just fine anyway. And this will result in less strain on your back, on your rear wheel and on various other components of your bicycle and your body.
The reason is that you'll be able to go over more rough terrain at a higher average speed.
I doubt that I'm articulate enough to tell you just how to minimize this. But I can put it in general terms; learn how to roll with the punches.
One piece of advice that I can give is to go a bit slower than you might be imagining. Think of your bike as a putt-putt, not a speed machine. Your average speed over several miles will be just fine anyway. And this will result in less strain on your back, on your rear wheel and on various other components of your bicycle and your body.
