A Rat named Ward
- Thread starter LabRat
- Start date
Ok I don't want to admit but forgot that the red LEDs we changed some came from 12v system and some came from 6v.
Put power to it and zit pop crackle.... Ok, so this represents 3hrs of bench time. Tack down short/s. Change the resistors. Replace burnt red crystals.
Success!
Note you will see that the LEDs are now mounted back into the head lamp be it cut down. There is an Aluminum tube connecting the flood light to the blue glass jewel. Test fitting now.....
Put power to it and zit pop crackle.... Ok, so this represents 3hrs of bench time. Tack down short/s. Change the resistors. Replace burnt red crystals.
Success!
Note you will see that the LEDs are now mounted back into the head lamp be it cut down. There is an Aluminum tube connecting the flood light to the blue glass jewel. Test fitting now.....
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Dim the lights! Lets test fit. Playing with the wiring now. Sorting the tail from the brake. So glad we used the red led crystals. It is blood red and really bright!
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Bit more on the circuit for the tail light to function this proved to be a pia.
Daisy chain of resistors idea tested and scraper. Got ahold of a micro circuit voltage regulator and away she blows. Turn signals, running and break lights can all be controlled.
The micro board reduces 12v to a continuous 5v.
Micro circuit board recovered from failed medical equipment. Cost, Free!
Daisy chain of resistors idea tested and scraper. Got ahold of a micro circuit voltage regulator and away she blows. Turn signals, running and break lights can all be controlled.
The micro board reduces 12v to a continuous 5v.
Micro circuit board recovered from failed medical equipment. Cost, Free!
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Custom bracket for the LED turn signals.
Note the scrap steel was from a chunk off the sub frame on a Honda Accord. Cost again Fr33!
Note the scrap steel was from a chunk off the sub frame on a Honda Accord. Cost again Fr33!
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Now that you've been able to ride this bike more and put it through it's paces, what do you think of the engine? That's 3.5 hp? Is that right? So it must be around what... 120cc's or thereabouts? Does it start easily, have adequate torque, rev up okay? Would you use a Tecumseh in this hp range again?
I ask because I have three H40 engines (4 hp) and am thinking about using one on a build. That or a 2 stroke Jacobsen of 147CCs. Generally I like 4 strokes better than 2. The Jacobsen would probably give more top end, but I don't plan to go fast anyway. I do need power since it will likely have a sidecar.
Anyway, I'd appreciate hearing what you think of your engine now that you've used it some.
SB
I ask because I have three H40 engines (4 hp) and am thinking about using one on a build. That or a 2 stroke Jacobsen of 147CCs. Generally I like 4 strokes better than 2. The Jacobsen would probably give more top end, but I don't plan to go fast anyway. I do need power since it will likely have a sidecar.
Anyway, I'd appreciate hearing what you think of your engine now that you've used it some.
SB
OK the history is interesting on old bikes here's an example of the same brand it has a stamped serial number on it at the bottom of the frame. I'm yet to find any documentation related to that but I'm told it's the first of the few offered by the same source in the 1930's it may have been a motor bike due the off set in the lower half of the assembly I'm unsure but it has now the 2 stroke shift kit and 3 speed chains are now complete and it is likely the most difficult bike to assemble the combination I have choose for it . I hope to complete it before the year ends...
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For what is worth, the common Christmas LED lights are 3.3v and will work fine on a single 3.7v Li-Ion or two 1.5v batteries. You just have to cut the bulb sockets out of the string and orient the + and - together. I have run 6 on 2 AA batteries. Im sure more could be linked.
Know that frame, it has a nice triangle for the HT engines. Nice fit. We use the Cleveland welding roadmaster\hawathorne\etc and the monarks exclusively because of the cavernous spaces needed for four stroke builds.
If we used the frame you have there we would weld in the drop loop off a vintage girls bike. And just like that - room for up to 6.5 factory horses. To big of a build for me. Wizzkid has one in the shop now built with a drop loop like that on a worksman frame. A drop loop off a purple Schwinn... He has been posting to FB that build.
Your in Florida. New lighting laws. Look into it. Get registered. Don't get cop jacked.
Only thing I dis like about the engine is it has an "easy start" cam shaft. Even had an EZ START sticker on it, promo like.
What that cam does is it keeps the valve open a tad longer so its easy to start. Flip side of that is it peters out like as it starts to get at the mid to upper end of its sweet spot; a built in governor of sorts, and that's what it feels like.
I am convinced the non easy start cam would really be a screamer. Yes use this engine or the ones you have. They sound great. Idle low and have good torque for hills. Pulls slightly harder uphill than the 99cc Predator EZM on the FSC bike.
Its rip rip at low end and off the line it just goes. Yes like the 3.5hp flat top engine a lot. Will not use an ez start cam shaft engine again, its a beast up to its 30mph seems to top at about 34mph but it just refuses to go past 40mph. Had one of these 3.5hp engines on a kart when I was a kid. Think the kart was faster than this bike, I know my kart did not have the same camshaft.
I am looking for another small flat top for Evolution of rust; a bear naked Coupe De Ville.
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Thanks for responding. I did some checking this morning and I was wrong about having 3 H40 engines. I have two Tecumsehs and they are both H50's of 200cc's, 5 hsp. Not easy starts as these are older and came from snow blowers, probably 1970s. I may go ahead and strip one of them down to barebones, removing the tin work and recoil start assembly. If I like what I see and if it looks like it will fit in the frame then I can remove the fins from the flywheel. I'll use a hand crank starter for it like the one I made for my 34 Elgin. That should help to shrink it down to size some. The cantilever frame is a 51 Schwinn.
Anyway, thanks for your "engine review".
SB
Anyway, thanks for your "engine review".
SB
I think msrfan can fix both your ills. He knows how to remove the governor and should know how to fix the easy start. He also has a compresion release that fit the governor after removal.
SB he mounts the 5 hp at a angle and fits them into the frames, so it should be a easy fix or fit for you................Curt
SB he mounts the 5 hp at a angle and fits them into the frames, so it should be a easy fix or fit for you................Curt
The governor I can handle, its not connected and I have removed them in the past from all my builds. Its the ezstart camshaft that needs to go imho unless your telling me different
Compression release in the governor spigot what what what show me pix of this, intriguing.