New Here, could use a little help if possible on a 2 Stroke Kit

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spankey

New Member
Aug 9, 2015
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PA
Hi, my son decided to purchase a Dragon Fire 66cc/80cc Flying Horse 2-Stroke Engine Kit for one of his mountain bikes he had lying around. We installed it today however it did not come with instructions at all.

We are having a hard time getting it started. I had it running for about a block however it won't keep running at idle when you apply the clutch it just shuts off. After it shut off we couldn't get it running again.

Any ideas. I wish it came with instructions to trouble shoot it but it didn't.
We hope to review the forum more tomorrow as we spent most of the day assembling this thing together. Good father son time, but a long day.
He's excited to get this thing out to break it in, but we don't know if anything needs to be adjusted or such or is it bolt and go?

Thanks
Spankey!
 
Davezilla

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
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Welcome to the forum
There are a few things that can go wrong and cause the engine to not start, being that it's a brand new engine chances are that the head nuts are loose or worked their way loose, this will bleed off compression and make the engine bog down or just die and it may or may not start again.
Hopefully you washed out the tank before installing it, these are usually full of all kinds of trash like metal chips, pieces of paper, paint chips, and who knows what all else. What happens is it can get into your carb and block off the main jet or needle valve at the fuel inlet.
Also check for spark and check that your carb didn't work it's way loose causing a huge air leak, the carb needs to be pushed firmly onto the inlet then the clamp tightened.
Back to the spark, make sure your kill switch wiring is insulated and that they're not touching each other at their terminals or shorting out on the frame.
Use a fuel mix of 24:1 or 32:1 for break in as 16:1 is way too much oil, this can also foul up the spark plug preventing a start or making it really difficult to start. Set your plug gap to .022 to .026" also, this will help with starting too since these ignitions aren't very strong.
Hopefully some of this will help
 
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spankey

New Member
Aug 9, 2015
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Thank u! Very helpful. We'll give all this a look tomorrow and report back.

Thanks again we appreciate it!
Spankey
 
Agreen

Agreen

Member
Feb 10, 2013
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The carburetor usually comes way out of tune. The CDI units have hit a rash of garbage recently, so you may not have spark.

When troubleshooting any engine, it's always the same 3 things:
1) compression
2) fuel
3) spark

If you have those, it should run.

Pull the plug and hook it up to the wire, touch the spark plug to the engine and crank the pedals with the rear wheel in the air. If you get spark, let's look at the carb. One thing you should know is that you can tell if the carb is too lean or rich by the spark plug. Too wet, black, sooty, or oily? It's too rich. Chalky, white, or ashy? It's lean. They always always always come too rich. Regardless, take the needle out and move the E-clip to the 2nd from the top notch. The needle allows for adjustment from idle to 3/4 throttle. Full throttle to 3/4 throttle, you'll have to deal with rejetting. Not a huge deal, and the bike will run just fine with the main jet too rich (like I said, they all are). It'll just run a little slower by a couple mph.

Also, the choke is the lever on the right side. Up is choke. Down, choke off.

If it doesn't have spark, either the cdi or magneto has gone bad. Use an ohmmeter to check between the black and blue wires. Should have some value of resistance. Not 0 or infinite. If that's good, then a bum CDI is at hand.

(Edit)
And what Dave said. I'm pretty scatter-brained. Somewhere along the way, you might get enough information from one of us lol.
 
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spankey

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Aug 9, 2015
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Thank u! Great information that we'll attempt tonight when we hit this yet again.

Appreciate the help from all
 
Davezilla

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
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San Antonio Texas
The main jet I wouldn't even worry about until after the engine is broken in, but you can do a needle adjustment to help improve cruise after you put a few more miles on it. If you're running a better exhaust and a less restrictive air filter it might be ok on the main already but typically the main that's installed will be on the rich side even with these upgrades. If the engine is still totally stock I would advise to leave it this way at least until it's broken in since upgrades to the intake or exhaust will change the jetting requirement and we don't want to go lean right now when the engine can run significantly hotter since it's still new and you'll want this extra fuel to help keep it cool during this time.
 
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spankey

New Member
Aug 9, 2015
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Thanks guys! I re gaped the spark plug, and adjusted the idle screw further in. Bike is now running.

However yesterday we experienced a big problem. I don't want to push blame but our chain broke around the front sprocket. The master link failed. The chain broke the inside Clutch sprocket housing. We are able to use the bike however the clutch camshaft works it way up and out of the housing and then the clutch is fully out. In other words the engine locks. Almost as if there is a pin or clip missing to hold the clutch camshaft from moving up and down?

Any ideas? I just want to be sure what I need to order.

Photo attached from when it happened yesterday. I've emailed BikeBerry as I feel the master link shouldn't have failed like this. Luckily it happened when we were trying to start it peddling and not running. Damage could have been much worse.

Thanks guys,
Spankey.

IMG_7573.JPG
 
Bikeguy Joe

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
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up north now
Ouchy.
The pin that holds the cam in won't hold anything with the part that holds it missing...gonna need a new cover. You may want to post in the swap n shop to see if someone has a spare handy.
 
2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
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Littleton, Colorado
The most commn cause of master link problems is installing the master link clip on backwards.

With the chain/master link installed the open end of the master link clip should be facing toward the rear of the bike as the chain approaches the drive sprocket. If it is installed opposite, the clip can be knocked off inside the clutch actuator (your broken part) cover resulting in the problem you've had.

This is never covered in the so-called 'instructions' that come with the kits but is a known fact. Clip open end faces rear on the top chain run. Also chain tension is important. You'll want 1/2" to 3/4" of slack. No more, no less as well as proper chain/sprocket alignment.

Sorry you had this problem but at least you've found the right place to find answers to your motorized bicycle questions. We're here to help.

Tom
 
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spankey

New Member
Aug 9, 2015
9
0
0
PA
2door said:
The most commn cause of master link problems is installing the master link clip on backwards.

With the chain/master link installed the open end of the master link clip should be facing toward the rear of the bike as the chain approaches the drive sprocket. If it is installed opposite, the clip can be knocked off inside the clutch actuator (your broken part) cover resulting in the problem you've had.

This is never covered in the so-called 'instructions' that come with the kits but is a known fact. Clip open end faces rear on the top chain run. Also chain tension is important. You'll want 1/2" to 3/4" of slack. No more, no less as well as proper chain/sprocket alignment.

Sorry you had this problem but at least you've found the right place to find answers to your motorized bicycle questions. We're here to help.

Tom
Click to expand...
Sadly we installed the chain out of the box. The chain was whole not needing to be linked. Since the box didn't have a single instruction included this happened. I've owned motorcyles from dirt bikes to street bikes and also understand about the master clip being forward. I still honestly think the only thing on the chain where the master was, was the clip. Unfortunately I must have missed this or could have avoided. I think at the factory they didn't put the main link behind the clip. Of course I can't prove this but I've never lost a chain in all my years of riding dirt bikes and street bikes. I've replaced so many of them that I can't figure out what happened. My only real downfall with any cycles I had was carbs. I hated them with a passion and could never get them perfect if I touched them. Anything else I could do myself. If I fiddled with a carb my dad or older brother would have to dial them back in.

I emailed Bikeberry photos and they responded with "they need photos to validate this"....The email they replied back to me even contained the photos i originally provided! I doubt they'll do anything so I guess he has to buy new parts. Just glad it happened during attempting to start it and not while he was out riding it at a greater speed. Could have been ugly. Ouch... So far he's put about 3 miles on the engine tonight around our development. I won't let him take it out far until we have the clutch cover fixed. Plus I want him to break it in local before attempting anything outside our development.

Thanks to all for your replies and knowledge. We appreciate it. Looking forward to reading more as time goes by.

Spankey.
 
crassius

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
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USA
nope, that standard cover works well, and the failure is not the cover's fault - you're lucky you didn't break the engine case which is something we've seen many times
 
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