One of my exhaust studs stripped out. So I drilled and tapped them both for 3/8 inch bolts and made my own huge studs. For reasons I can't explain, the left one already stripped again. I tried jb welding it back in but the jb weld couldn't take the heat. I'm going to try JB weld high heat (the one they recommend for exhaust manifolds). Suggestions?
JB-Weld exhaust stud
- Thread starter cschade
- Start date
Re: Job weld exhaust stud
cschade- To 3/8"? That's big.
I don't have an answer for you, but I'd recommend waiting until a member who knows tells you something about it before you do anything else. You may be at that place where the right fix will fix ya, and the wrong fix will ruin ya.
Also, you may search here for torque specs, and related build info. Some of those numbers may surprise you, they did me.
Good luck!
cschade- To 3/8"? That's big.
I don't have an answer for you, but I'd recommend waiting until a member who knows tells you something about it before you do anything else. You may be at that place where the right fix will fix ya, and the wrong fix will ruin ya.
Also, you may search here for torque specs, and related build info. Some of those numbers may surprise you, they did me.
Good luck!
I corrected your thread title for you.
Epoxy based adhesive (glue) isn't going to fix your problem. If you're stripping out threads, especially 3/8 threads, you're over tightening things. Buy or borrow a torque wrench. Those little 6mm studs shouldn't see much more than 60 inch pounds maximum.
If you're trying to tighten enough to stop an exhaust leak maybe you should check the flatness of the exhaust flange. Every one I've seen is warped and needs to be ground/sanded flat to get a good gasket sealing surface. Also the kit gaskets aren't the best. You might want to make new ones from a good quality gasket material made for exhaust applications. 1/8" thickness seems to work well.
Exhaust/muffler systems that aren't supported can vibrate hard enough to put a lot of stress on the fasteners. The weight of the pipe and muffler added to the vibrations can, and usually will cause some problems. Most kits come with a muffler hanger but they often aren't used or used incorrectly.
Tom
Epoxy based adhesive (glue) isn't going to fix your problem. If you're stripping out threads, especially 3/8 threads, you're over tightening things. Buy or borrow a torque wrench. Those little 6mm studs shouldn't see much more than 60 inch pounds maximum.
If you're trying to tighten enough to stop an exhaust leak maybe you should check the flatness of the exhaust flange. Every one I've seen is warped and needs to be ground/sanded flat to get a good gasket sealing surface. Also the kit gaskets aren't the best. You might want to make new ones from a good quality gasket material made for exhaust applications. 1/8" thickness seems to work well.
Exhaust/muffler systems that aren't supported can vibrate hard enough to put a lot of stress on the fasteners. The weight of the pipe and muffler added to the vibrations can, and usually will cause some problems. Most kits come with a muffler hanger but they often aren't used or used incorrectly.
Tom
Short answer: forget it.
You'd be better off buying a new cylinder. It'd be cheaper than getting a helicoil-kit, although tapping should be fine if it's done right.
If you have the standard hanging exhaust, I highly recommend that you make sure it's properly stabilized at its base with a strap to the down-post. This'll mitigate vibration as those exhaust-pipes act like tuning-forks at certain RMPs...puts a lot of stress on the studs et al.
You'd be better off buying a new cylinder. It'd be cheaper than getting a helicoil-kit, although tapping should be fine if it's done right.
If you have the standard hanging exhaust, I highly recommend that you make sure it's properly stabilized at its base with a strap to the down-post. This'll mitigate vibration as those exhaust-pipes act like tuning-forks at certain RMPs...puts a lot of stress on the studs et al.
new cylinder is best way (next time add a hanger to hold up weight of muffler too)
another fix is to run a strap around whole top of motor to pull muffler in tighter, but that looks like crap & sometimes fails from vibration
BTW, I've aways fixed these (before they get real bad) by inserting a heli-coil rather than making the hole oversized - too late for that in this case
another fix is to run a strap around whole top of motor to pull muffler in tighter, but that looks like crap & sometimes fails from vibration
BTW, I've aways fixed these (before they get real bad) by inserting a heli-coil rather than making the hole oversized - too late for that in this case
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I use a muffler hanger and have already flattened my exhaust flange. I think I'm going to be ok with one 3/8 bolt, no?
If I grab the pipe and try as hard as I can to move it, it currently won't move, which I think is a good thing
I have gone to ridiculous lengths to keep the intake side bolted in of all things but the same idea. I probably have three times the value of the cylinder invested in labor to keep the intake on.I just had so many loving hours in porting, filing, painting it that I didn't want to pitch it. Right now I carefully ran course thread over size bolts straight in without the helicoils and it is finally staying in. Good luck and happy motoring.
I would say just swap out the cylinder unless you got a LOT of porting work done to it or spent a fortune buying one that's already been ported. A new cylinder costs between $15 and $25 depending on type and who's selling them etc.
Then on the New cylinder, if you re drill the holes for the intake and exhaust studs and add in helicoils they won't strip out. Some of the new cylinders come with these studs pre installed and usually a generous helping of red locktite to keep them in place, if you get one that has the studs locktited in like this you can just use as is or carefully heat around the stud with a propane torch until it can be unscrewed, these studs will snap off right at the base if you try to remove them without heating them up first since the red locktite they use has such a strong grip.
If you do choose to replace the jug, these are not all created equally and if you're after performance you will want the type that has the flat transfer openings, not the slanted or cat eye type openings in the cylinder. To help ensure you get the flat transfer type, these are usually called high performance cylinders when sold on ebay and usually cost around $25. Every time I use this type jug pretty much all I need to do to them is remove the casting flash at the transfer opening and sand or file away any nikasil plating that overhangs into the port openings for decent performance, and for serious performance, these are the best ones to do an all out porting job on since they have larger transfer openings and can rev a lot higher.
i'm not knocking the cat eye type transfers either, they do have their purpose... if speed isn't as important as acceleration or torque... like if you have a heavy bike or a heavy rider, these can be cleaned up a little and will pull really hard but top off at around 30mph with the 44 tooth sprocket, these also tend to work better if using smaller rear sprockets. The flat transfer jugs will turn more rpm and make more power, but the torque capabilities the cat eye transfers have can't be ignored either.
Then on the New cylinder, if you re drill the holes for the intake and exhaust studs and add in helicoils they won't strip out. Some of the new cylinders come with these studs pre installed and usually a generous helping of red locktite to keep them in place, if you get one that has the studs locktited in like this you can just use as is or carefully heat around the stud with a propane torch until it can be unscrewed, these studs will snap off right at the base if you try to remove them without heating them up first since the red locktite they use has such a strong grip.
If you do choose to replace the jug, these are not all created equally and if you're after performance you will want the type that has the flat transfer openings, not the slanted or cat eye type openings in the cylinder. To help ensure you get the flat transfer type, these are usually called high performance cylinders when sold on ebay and usually cost around $25. Every time I use this type jug pretty much all I need to do to them is remove the casting flash at the transfer opening and sand or file away any nikasil plating that overhangs into the port openings for decent performance, and for serious performance, these are the best ones to do an all out porting job on since they have larger transfer openings and can rev a lot higher.
i'm not knocking the cat eye type transfers either, they do have their purpose... if speed isn't as important as acceleration or torque... like if you have a heavy bike or a heavy rider, these can be cleaned up a little and will pull really hard but top off at around 30mph with the 44 tooth sprocket, these also tend to work better if using smaller rear sprockets. The flat transfer jugs will turn more rpm and make more power, but the torque capabilities the cat eye transfers have can't be ignored either.