New cylinder head available on Ebay!

GoldenMotor.com

crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Alright folks, I just put up the first two of these high performance heads in my Ebay store, CR Machine Manufacturing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130717462845?item=130717462845&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#ht_918wt_1110

I put in some pretty detailed information about it, but I can elaborate a bit as well;
Every engine is usually different, so results using this head will vary. If you are getting good power from your engine, chances are you are also dealing with detonation problems, like I was when I was using stock heads. Very soon, I will also be selling decked cylinder jugs, so you can bring your piston up higher. This is a really important thing for getting maximum power from your engine because the squish band doesn't benefit the engine unless the piston comes sufficiently close to the bottom of the cylinder head so that that portion of the air/fuel mixture is cooled. Also, you will find that when you remove the head, and look down there when the piston is at bottom dead center, you will likely see the transfer ports are only partially uncovered. To increase transfer port flow, adding base gasket thickness can be part of the answer, which makes decking the jug even more important. I am currently running a jug that has .100" removed from the top face. I will sell that size, and one that has .060" removed, so you can decide how you want your engine set up. I also plan on selling modified pistons which have a little bevel machined on the top edge of the piston on each side, allowing better flow out of the transfer ports. Although this is still in testing phases, I believe a small enlargement of the exhaust port may be necessary. Well, anyway, that's enough talking for now, right?

Thanks a lot everybody!
.crt.
-Fred
 

crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Yeah, I know; I ain't cheap to make stuff in this Country! I'm feeling pretty optimistic though; maybe I'll offer free shipping as an incentive. Well, all you need is an expansion chamber, and then you could be vunerable to detonation, and that really sucks, cause you can hole a piston if it gets bad!
.duh.
-Fred
 

ivan H

Member
Oct 8, 2011
622
1
16
australia
I think 95 is reasonable. The RSE head is around the same & our $ is around parity with ur's. U pay 4 wot u want & when u compare the advantages over the stock or slant head, some of which r pretty bad castings, & they're thin in cross section. These r machined from billet stock & have a lotta meat around/above the combustion chamber, smaller combustion chamber with squish band (a squish band is designed 2 prevent detonation) & added cooling surface area. Cheers
 
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crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Hello everybody.
The new cylinder head just received a few new refinements.
It has a rounded top edge, and I'm also including some nice, extra tall hex nuts to make installation easier. I'm driving my bike really hard, and it keeps the engine nice and cool. High compression and no detonation. Made in the USA. Oh yeah, and it's on sale! check it out! Here is the page for it on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorized-b...tors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash

.xx.

-Fred
 

maurtis

New Member
Dec 14, 2011
707
0
0
Kyle, TX
Love the look of this head, LOVE IT! If I did not already have my Puch head, yours would be on the top of my list.

Fantastic work, and I think $80 shipped is a great price.
 

Technocyclist

Motorized Bicycle Senior Technologist
Jul 7, 2008
462
0
0
Asia
Do you have a picture what it looks like underneath? and what spark plug size can be used on your heads? and one more thing, do you have international shipping?
 

ivan H

Member
Oct 8, 2011
622
1
16
australia
That is a good looking head. A pic of the underside was shown in an earlier posting here. Is that a spark plug indexing shim in the foreground. If so, r they nescessary. With my RSE head, with squish at 0.030" an indexing shim is needed 2 prevent contact between plug & piston. I reamed the unused portion of the thread on the combustion chamber side as if left there they can b a scource of detonation. Cheers
 

crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Yes, this hobby is habit forming!
Yes, I will ship international, however it will cost an additional $10.00.
There is a view of the underside of the head. It should be the second picture.
Ivan, to answer your question about the spark plug shim... Well, it's not necessary if you use the Chinese plugs, or other coldish plugs. You might have a problem if you are running maximum compression and a hot plug, and I don't think too many people would want to do that, so I'm not sure if including the shim is really all that important, but I think someone might find it fun to experiment with.

I have been running the engine really hard with this head, running maximum compression, and have had no problems with detonation. The engine has chain snapping power now. I'm very happy with the design, and I'm glad you folks seem to be happy with it too!

Looks like Norman from Venice Motor Bikes just bought one! Good going! It's going out tomorrow dude!

r.ly.
-Fred
 

crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Do you have a picture what it looks like underneath? and what spark plug size can be used on your heads? and one more thing, do you have international shipping?
Oh, there was another question you had that I did not answer. About what spark plugs to use, well the stock plugs which come with the engines will work very well. I use a NGK 8 plug. That number is not the exact number, because I can't remember off the top of my head, but the critical heat number is 8. I've run Bosch WR6BC and WR7BP plugs with great success too. Oh, and once again, I can ship to you in Asia for additional $10.00 via US Postal service International medium flat rate box.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for your interest.
zpt
-Fred
 

feelyx

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
140
1
0
sac. ca 95821
Thats a nice noggan you've made there..flg. Can you tell me the cc's of the head? With the wider fins, does it run hotter? Also, what is the static compression # compared to stock? What type of alloy is it made from? Have you tried it with and without your manifold? Any differenences?

I think a billet matching cylinder (sent to u.s. chrome, or LNE for cylinder coating) with over sized fins and a circle finned exhaust clamp to bolt on it would help look the part.
$80 seems a very resonable price for the head.... I may have to buy one just to play with. .wee.
 

crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Hi.
Okay, well to be honest I really don't know the cc's of the combustion chamber. I needed to design a combustion chamber that incorporated a squish band and a simple dome with enough room so the spark plug electrode wouldn't hit the piston. The head will definitely raise compression, but in order to achieve maximum compression, you will need to check to see how high your piston goes when it is at Top Dead Center. In other words, maximum compression is achieved when the edge of the piston is flush with the top face of the cylinder. When the head gasket is installed, the thickness of the gasket will be the squish clearance. Now, all the motors are not the same. A good example is the GT-5 skyhawk motors. Those pistons will stop short at least 1/16" below the top face of the cylinder. For those without a lathe, I will be selling decked cylinder jugs. I'm just waiting for the capital to make a purchase.
About the cooling fins... they are thick, but there is a lot of them. The main objective when I made the heads was to get much better cooling than with the stock cylinder heads. Pretty early in the game, I started having severe problems with my engine overheating, and detonating. Dumping more fuel in there just couldn't compensate enough for the poor cooling of the engine. Now with this head, I'm running maximum compression, free flow intake and a big custom expansion chamber, and whenever I'll pull off the road after racing the engine at full throttle, the engine is nice and warm, but not scorching hot like in the past. I've also noticed I don't have to re-torque the head bolts like I used to have to do.
Sorry about how long winded my response was, but those were some key questions you asked about, so I wanted to do them justice.
Thanks for your interest!
.xx.
-Fred
 

feelyx

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
140
1
0
sac. ca 95821
Fred, I don't want to sound like I am bustin' yer chops...but, how do you know if the head studs won't pull out of the engine block by producing too much compression and heat? Granted, I think stock static is around 6.0/1, and could use some improvement, but a 6mm stud could pull out real easy. When you increase the compression, more heat is generated, it might not be in the new head but what about the rest of the engine?
Just something to think about....
Tim
 

crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Fred, I don't want to sound like I am bustin' yer chops...but, how do you know if the head studs won't pull out of the engine block by producing too much compression and heat? Granted, I think stock static is around 6.0/1, and could use some improvement, but a 6mm stud could pull out real easy. When you increase the compression, more heat is generated, it might not be in the new head but what about the rest of the engine?
Just something to think about....
Tim
Heh, heh. Oh boy, I could get really long winded when it comes to compression ratio numbers when it comes to 2 stroke engines. There are so many variables which affect what that ratio actually is during actual engine operation. I just haven't took the time to cc the combustion chamber, because it really didn't have any bearing on how the combustion chamber needed to be shaped. I guess you'll just have to try one! lol.

You know what really hurts the engine studs and the head gasket? By far the most powerful force exerted on these components is from thermal expansion, caused by the engine getting hot and expanding. The steel studs do not expand at the same rate as the aluminum, so if your engine is overheating, it will put too much strain on those components. I used to have problems with the head bolts when I was running a stock head, because my engine was developing enough power to overheat the engine. When I started using this head with larger cooling surface, all the problems associated with high engine temperatures went away, plus, I had even more power.

Oh, another thing I must state: This head is designed to be used with 8MM studs. Maybe it's possible to use it on an engine with 6MM studs, but I have not tried that. Extra thick washers maybe? Funny thing, I actually make a lot of specialty hardware too, including really thick beveled hardened washers!

I sincerely appreciate your input because clearly, you have a strong interest in engines and that's cool with me.

.duh.
-Fred
 

crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Hi, any plans to do a head for 48cc engines?
Hey Greg. You know what... Yes. I just got in a new GT-2 engine from Gasbike, and am in the process of going through it to deal with all of the problem areas, and I want to design a head for that engine. So, yes, I think it will be pretty fun doing that. After I get done with that, I'll make extras for anybody else who might want one. Maybe I'll have something in about a month, but it's just a guess.
Thanks a lot!

-Fred
 
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feelyx

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
140
1
0
sac. ca 95821
Heh, heh. Oh boy, I could get really long winded when it comes to compression ratio numbers when it comes to 2 stroke engines. There are so many variables which affect what that ratio actually is during actual engine operation. I just haven't took the time to cc the combustion chamber, because it really didn't have any bearing on how the combustion chamber needed to be shaped. I guess you'll just have to try one! lol.

You know what really hurts the engine studs and the head gasket? By far the most powerful force exerted on these components is from thermal expansion, caused by the engine getting hot and expanding. The steel studs do not expand at the same rate as the aluminum, so if your engine is overheating, it will put too much strain on those components. I used to have problems with the head bolts when I was running a stock head, because my engine was developing enough power to overheat the engine. When I started using this head with larger cooling surface, all the problems associated with high engine temperatures went away, plus, I had even more power.

Oh, another thing I must state: This head is designed to be used with 8MM studs. Maybe it's possible to use it on an engine with 6MM studs, but I have not tried that. Extra thick washers maybe? Funny thing, I actually make a lot of specialty hardware too, including really thick beveled hardened washers!

I sincerely appreciate your input because clearly, you have a strong interest in engines and that's cool with me.

.duh.
-Fred
Thanks Fred,
Yes, I am all to aware of thermal expansion, as an example back in the mid 70's (wow, thats a dater) we had issues with the mag cases Porsche used when they went 2.7L and smog laws causing more heat in the engine. Head studs were pulling right and left.
So, I guess I will be timecerting the case for 8mm studs and purchasing your head in the next couple of weeks. .brnot
Thanks again for info
Tim
 

crmachineman

New Member
May 24, 2012
259
2
0
New Hampshire
Huh, OK then. Well, sounds like your a old timer then eh? Working on Porsche's eh? Nice. When I first started as a young mechanic, I worked in a German car shop in San Francisco, and after only one year of working on cars, I wanted to work on the 911's but my boss didn't let me, so I quit! Perhaps I should have been more patient, but I was a full of piss and vinegar in my twenties.
Never had the opportunity to work on those cars very much, but always wanted to. So, they pulled studs out of the crankcase? Man, that is messed up! That is not what the car owner wants to happen!
Well, anyway, if your engine is putting out more than stock horsepower, you are going to like this head as it will keep the engine cooler. I just pulled the head off my engine today to inspect the cylinder, and it's totally scratch free! Every other cylinder I have run with my engine has received scratches right away after only a little bit of hard driving. I'm sure it was from high operating temperatures! So, an additional benefit I wasn't planning on: longer cylinder life!

Take care,
Fred