Loss of Power nothing seems help

GoldenMotor.com

gebhardm

New Member
Jul 5, 2010
33
0
0
Illinois
Hello everyone

I recently purchased an 66/80cc kit (called a Stinger) and mounted it on my old Schwinn Typhoon. The engine was working great for the first 1.5 tanks (I probably have put a total of 50 miles on the engine). Then it began to lose power until not I can't go up modest hills without pedaling. I checked the plug. It was black (a little oily). Also the end of the muffler was oily. So I assumed the fuel/oil ratio was wrong. The following had basically no effect on the performance of the engine

1. Kicked up the gas to oil ratio to 32:1 even though the manuel recommends 20:1 after the engine is broken in.
2. Reset the "e" clip on the throttle to the highest notch (i.e. farthest from the pointed end of the the needle valve) Tried the clip on 3rd notch as well
3. Cleaned the carb main jet and fuel intake (the one the float operates) several times.
4. Tried a different (new) plug (recommended type) and CDI.
5. Checked exhaust port for clogging
6. Checked intake manifold for obstructions
7. Bought new and higher octane (91%) gas. The original gas I used had 10% alcohol added).

The manuel that came with the kit says one should replace the magnet if power is low. The magnet seems to have a strong field and I just can't believe a magnet could "go bad" in the space of a few hours. The engine never did idle without dying even though I tried the idle screw at various locations. The engine however did run fine (really good) for the first 1.5 tanks. I'm really run out of things to try and was thinking of replacing the rings. ANy ideas on what else I could try?
 

gebhardm

New Member
Jul 5, 2010
33
0
0
Illinois
Nougat

II forgot to mention that I had checked the head bolts and they were OK. I'll try the carb cleaner check for leaks. Unfortunately I can't do that right now. Once again thanks.

Gebhardm
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
Make sure the base and head gaskets not to mention the intake gaskets and the crank seals are all intact, and functioning properly. Does it want to idle high, or is it slow to return to idle? Both classic air leak/too lean via air leak symptoms.

What does the second (new) plug look like?
 

omegaunderground

New Member
Sep 16, 2009
98
0
0
modesto
I only offer this advice from personal experience with my kit. My engine was doing something very similar after the first tank of break in gas. I got stranded some miles from home before I realized what the problem was. The spark plug wire that came with my kit's solder/crimp joint where the plug cab covers the plug broke.

I wasn't too far from my dads house he gave me a silicone spark plug wire, I cut it to fit, twisted it on the CDI, re-attached to the plug and the engine ran like a top didn't skip a beat. Also I use this plug below it is awesome for my motorbike engine, if anyone else has used it and has any review please post.

E3 Spark Plug website Spark Plugs | Automotive Spark Plug | Motorcycle Spark Plugs | E3 Spark Plugs

 

gebhardm

New Member
Jul 5, 2010
33
0
0
Illinois
Everyone

Thanks for the advice. Omega, the wires seem intact. The engine seems to me to be four-stroking but I'm not sure since I don't have any experience listening to a engine four-stroking (except for a you-tube video). The Think just doesn't seem to have much power at all.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
Hey Omega, do you know what the gap is on those 3 prong plugs?
I got this Z4JC with my last grubee Shyhawk 48cc slant head.

 

omegaunderground

New Member
Sep 16, 2009
98
0
0
modesto
Nope not sure about the gap on the plug, I had a standard type plug with my grubee kit, I took it down to the auto parts store looking for a replacement plug and they gave me one that was just about the same gap. I had previously used the E3 plugs in my 1.8T VW passat and it made a world of difference in that engine, so when they said they had an E3 plug for my bike I jumped on it lol.
 

Alson

New Member
May 16, 2010
71
0
0
Kankakee Illinois
My buddy gaped his at .28, because he herd ittel fire up easer.but he lost alot of top end. So he regaped it at .34 and got his top end back. I gap mine at .32 and it fine and starts up good, oh ya I opened the intake gasket wider, and ported the intake and muffler flange and got around 3 mph faster.shft.
 

Alson333

New Member
Nov 9, 2011
46
0
0
Kankakee Illinois
Did you find out what was your problem in your loss of power, my buddy having tbe same pdoblem, and were lost in space, not knowing what it is, but the ideal takes awhile to return to normal, which determines a air leakdance1
 

gebhardm

New Member
Jul 5, 2010
33
0
0
Illinois
I finally discovered what the problem was. I was using Lawnboy 2-cycle engine oil 16:1 mix for the initial 100 mile breaking-in period. Apparently it fouled or clogged the catalytic converter inside the muffler. I had literally exhausted all the tips (adjusting float, adjusting throttle needle, new plug, new plug wire, etc etc etc) Finally I just took off the muffler and the power increase was immediate (like new again). Of course one should not run the engine without a muffler for any length of time since the engine needs some back pressure while running. I bought a new muffler and switched to synthetic 2-cylce engine oil at a 40:1 mixture. Have not had a problem since.

Hope this helps
Mike
 

CTripps

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
1,310
1
38
Vancouver, B.C.
I finally discovered what the problem was. I was using Lawnboy 2-cycle engine oil 16:1 mix for the initial 100 mile breaking-in period. Apparently it fouled or clogged the catalytic converter inside the muffler. I had literally exhausted all the tips (adjusting float, adjusting throttle needle, new plug, new plug wire, etc etc etc) Finally I just took off the muffler and the power increase was immediate (like new again). Of course one should not run the engine without a muffler for any length of time since the engine needs some back pressure while running. I bought a new muffler and switched to synthetic 2-cycle engine oil at a 40:1 mixture. Have not had a problem since.

Hope this helps
Mike
Try cutting your break in mix down, you can do a quick search to get good advice on what mix to use. Myself, I like 24:1 for break in. Most here would agree 16:1 is way too thick.

A spray can of brake cleaner will move that sludge out of your old exhaust system, just make sure you hold the end of the pipe over a bucket or something while spraying into the other end.