Finished install and bike won't move

Hophead_90720 · Dec 28, 2009

Hello forum friends,

I have been wanting to do this for years and finally did it! The engine is mounted, I seemed to have put the rear sprocket on to clear the coaster brake (with some bending) but not sure about the clutch, exhaust pipe (mounted facing up) but it looks good. My back wheel just skids like it's locked. I've read the forums and can't find a back wheel problem like mine.

Any seasoned moto-bikers that know what happened?

P.S. I love beer!

Glenn :-||

Spunout · Dec 28, 2009

Hophead_90720 said:
Hello forum friends,

I have been wanting to do this for years and finally did it! The engine is mounted, I seemed to have put the rear sprocket on to clear the coaster brake (with some bending) but not sure about the clutch, exhaust pipe (mounted facing up) but it looks good. My back wheel just skids like it's locked. I've read the forums and can't find a back wheel problem like mine.

Any seasoned moto-bikers that know what happened?

P.S. I love beer!

Glenn

beer is good.

what about the coaster brake dust cap? did you grind the edge down, so the sprocket fits nicely over it? if you didnt, its possible that the dust cap got smashed down onto the bearing housing.
that, or perhaps you overtightened the bearing/brake assy. i dont mean to offend, but, are you pulling the clutch in?

Hophead_90720 · Dec 28, 2009

I might have tightened the brake assy. too much. I didn't do any grinding in that area so I'm pretty sure the sprocket is tightened over the cap. If I grind the outside of the cap down so that the sprocket clears it, that might work? As for the clutch, I wired the attachement to the arm and when I pull, it doesn't really move. I can move it to swing out (by hand) but it won't pull in using the lever. I'm very new at this so no offense taken. Thanks!

P.S. those are the coolest bikes ever on your link!!!

hrichmon@gmail.com · Dec 28, 2009

Hophead,

If the clutch lever is doing nothing to the clutch arm when you squeeze it, I think your clutch cable has too much slack. I would recommend that you loosen the bolt on the clutch arm, then pull the clutch cable tight enough to make the spring (little one) between the clutch arm and engine compress and go straight, but not so tight that the clutch arm itself moves, and then tighten the bolt back. this way the cable is absolutely as tight as it can be without moving the clutch arm, and when you squeeze the clutch lever, the arm will move.

p.s. like greenflash? their beer is epic

Hophead_90720 · Dec 29, 2009

I tried to tighten the cable to where there is no tension but the arm doesn't pull inward. It stays pointing straight back. Maybe I missed a step? I'll attach a picture, not sure if it will help any. There is no room to pull the clutch back any further. I've seen pictures where the arm is bent inward more.

Green Flash is one of my favorites.
Love Fresh West Coast IPA or 30th Street Pale Ale!

hrichmon@gmail.com · Dec 29, 2009

That's Bizarre. It looks perfect. I take it that since you have the chain already on there that you are able to push the lever in by hand and rotate the sprocket with your fingers? (if not do not push too hard, those things love to brake) If you can move it by hand but not using the lever then perhaps it's your zip ties... if you have a lot of them, and they're real tight, and your cable isn't on a gentle bend down to the motor, it might just have too much tension to work (i've had that happen). Also, i am assuming that it is going through the "thingy" sticking up from the engine to the right of the clutch arm (your spring is compressed so i am guessing it is touching the clutch arm and the "thingy") If you can't move the arm by hand, then i wonder exactly what all you had to do to this clutch. did you have to take the cover plate off? did you have to put the clutch arm onto the shaft yourself? The only thing i'm thinking is that the clutch shaft is in the wrong position (it has a semicircle on the end in the bottom), and this is why it won't move? I am also pretty new to this, so this is as far as im comfortable in trying to guide you.

Le Freak is my favorite... has a Delirium Tremens feel

Hophead_90720 · Dec 29, 2009

Well the chain is on there but I can't push the lever in by hand and the sprocket won't move unless I crank it really hard with the spark plug socket from the drive shaft. I did something wrong with the back wheel assy too so can't get to it till this weekend. I think I didn't grind down the coaster brake dust guard and might not have tightened the bearings correctly. I'll check the clutch cable ties. I took the cover off to grind down the teeth on the sprocket with a dremel so the chain will run smoothly. The clutch came all intact but maybe when I took the cover off, I lost something? There is the post with the cut half cylinder in there but when it's in, I'm pretty sure it's flat against that metal piece coming from the center of the drive sprocket. It pulls out and a ball bearing is inside there. I've never worked on an engine before in my life other than oil changes and changing a battery so this is a learning exp...thanks for helping.

Did you try Super Freak? It was an offering at the GF 7th...it was like Le Freak on steroids.

2door · Dec 29, 2009

Hophead,
The clutch lever, the one on the engine, can be pushed inward by hand but it takes a lot of force. If your cable is binding or too loose the handlebar lever can not move it. Make sure you have nice gentle bends in the cable with no kinks or sharp bends and that it moves freely before attaching to the engine.
Now let's look at what I think might be your problem because it is a common one with new engines; that being that the clutch friction pads are stuck. Sometimes all it takes is a very hard push inward on the clutch arm. You might need to make a lever from a piece of pipe with an inside diameter slightly larger than the clutch arm. It can be done by hand but use a rag between your palm and the arm. If you can move the lever inward, maybe and inch or more that's good. You might hear a soft 'thunk' sound if the pads come loose. The other method of freeing a stuck clutch is by tapping (don't beat it to death but a good solid hit will suffice) with a soft headed hammer on either the pin which protrudes from the center of the drive sprocket or on the other side around the flower nut. The friction pads can be stuck to the face of the pressure plate from the factory and need a little gentle help to get them to free up. Give these a try and get back to us.
Tom

Hophead_90720 · Dec 29, 2009

Thanks 2door, I was trying to push it in but have heard things about parts breaking and bolts striping, so didn't want to force the arm too much. If that part is supposed to move, it's pretty stuck in there. I will try the pipe idea and hopefully jar it loose. I will try this tonight when I get home. I haven't removed the other side yet so I'll check out the clutch and flower nut area. So is that half circle piece suppose to rotate from the flat area to the rounded area? Thanks for the tip! I'll get back to you...I can't wait to get this working!!!

dance1

Hophead_90720 · Jan 4, 2010

Update: I got the clutch working and I'm working on understanding the carberator and fuel lines. I can get it to go for about a block and the chain falls off or gets snagged on either sprocket. I had trouble with getting the chain the correct size so I am using the chain guide. Do I need to file down the rear sprocket teeth too? I am assuming that my rear sprocket is too crooked so I hope to figure it out soon. Almost there...I love this hobby!

Finfan · Jan 4, 2010

If you can, take off the drive chain and spin the rear wheel. Does the drive sprocket stay in line or does it wobble back and forth? You may need to get the sprocket lined up correctly. Also get behind the bike and look down the chain. Are the engine and wheel sprockets lined up? If not that could be a problem. Good luck!

Hophead_90720 · Jan 4, 2010

Thanks I'll try that. It looks crooked from the back but when I try to straighten it with the chain guide, a half block later, it's moved back and derailed. It seems like my last struggle before the bike starts working. Also the back bolts are starting to lose their shape from turning so much.
Thanks for the input, I'll keep working on it.

Finfan · Jan 4, 2010

By "chain guide" do you mean the tensioner? The front drive gear and the rear sprocket must be lined up within a fairly tight tolerance. The chain tensioner is only supposed to take slack out of the chain. It won't hold it to one side or the other.

What back bolts are losing their shape? Something sounds really wrong there!

sniper5331 · Jan 10, 2010

ur chain is all binded up under the clutch cover

marts1 · Jan 10, 2010

You prob need to get the rear sprocket centered better looking at it from the back and from the side is needed. You'll have to take the chain off and spin the wheel to see how badly the sprocket wobbles.

biken stins · Jan 10, 2010

Just my 2 cents. If sprocket looks like it has a wobble redo the bolts and nuts. Loosen then retighten. A stiff yard stick across the rim can help you see if it is even all way around. Line tensioner up with bottom of rear sprocket. It is fed that way. Push bike slowly with spark plug out to check wobble adjust as needed.
There is always the chance sprocket is warped. Or as I found out last week a bent rim causes same problem. Good luck.

Hophead_90720 · Jan 11, 2010

- Yes, the chain binds up under the clutch cover sometimes and shreds some of the clutch wall.
- I might have the chain tensioner the wrong way. I have it bolted above the bottom of the rear sprocket. Is it supposed to be facing towards the ground??
- The sprocket is probably warped too. I have re-tightened about four times and the bolt heads are starting to get rounded off from the wrench. They barely clear the coaster brake right now. It's tough to spin the rear wheel because I don't have a stand. I should either build one or buy one to make things easier. What does everyone else do?
Cheers and thanks for the help!
Glenn

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