The 203mm disc on the front heats up enough to burn my finger even several seconds after a hard stop from over 35mph. Caliper and lever are Hayes Stroker hydraulic. Pads still have some life left. Is this bad?
Disc temp after hard stop?
- Thread starter Tony01
- Start date
I've seen rotors on airplanes and race cars glow red after hard braking. Nothing unusual about being hot enough to burn skin. It means the brakes are doing their job.
Don't touch them after braking from any speed.
Tom
Don't touch them after braking from any speed.
Tom
Yup... I've seen circle track cars with glowing red rotors after the first lap, and they stay glowing thru out the race on shorter tacks where they just don't have time to cool back down.
Basically, whether its a race car or a bicycle, the brakes work by transforming the rotating energy into heat, so if they're getting hot they're working... race cars and some sport/race bikes have brake cooling scoops and ducting to cool the rotors down quicker as they can get too hot and cause fading or fluid boiling. Most automotive brake rotors have centrifugal pumps cast into them to force the outside air thru the rotors and keep them nice and cool for the next stop, mainly to prevent fading. Then most performance rotors will be cross drilled or slotted to allow the hot gases to escape from between the pad and rotor, this does tend to wear the pads down quicker but the trade off is more effective braking as things heat up since any air trapped between the rotor and pad can expand quick enough to prevent full pad to rotor contact in extreme conditions... they look cool too so that's why most people buy them for street use. They hardly make a difference in normal conditions but become very effective in extreme conditions.
Basically, whether its a race car or a bicycle, the brakes work by transforming the rotating energy into heat, so if they're getting hot they're working... race cars and some sport/race bikes have brake cooling scoops and ducting to cool the rotors down quicker as they can get too hot and cause fading or fluid boiling. Most automotive brake rotors have centrifugal pumps cast into them to force the outside air thru the rotors and keep them nice and cool for the next stop, mainly to prevent fading. Then most performance rotors will be cross drilled or slotted to allow the hot gases to escape from between the pad and rotor, this does tend to wear the pads down quicker but the trade off is more effective braking as things heat up since any air trapped between the rotor and pad can expand quick enough to prevent full pad to rotor contact in extreme conditions... they look cool too so that's why most people buy them for street use. They hardly make a difference in normal conditions but become very effective in extreme conditions.
Nah man, heat means they are doing what they are supposed too.
But, if after a few good stops you start to notice that the lever is feeling "spongy" and the braking performance is reduced, you may have an issue with heat dissipation.
Witch 203mm rotors you run?
I am racing, so take my advice with a grain of salt or two, but I love me some Hope V2's.
....and Brembo's.
If you have any question don't hesitate to ask!
Sean Davis
Apollo Moto Racing
https://www.facebook.com/ApolloMotoRacing/
But, if after a few good stops you start to notice that the lever is feeling "spongy" and the braking performance is reduced, you may have an issue with heat dissipation.
Witch 203mm rotors you run?
I am racing, so take my advice with a grain of salt or two, but I love me some Hope V2's.
....and Brembo's.
If you have any question don't hesitate to ask!
Sean Davis
Apollo Moto Racing
https://www.facebook.com/ApolloMotoRacing/
