Hi my name is john, starting first build with sd stinger and shift kit

jmoreno19871987 · Mar 28, 2014

Hello thanks for veiwing my thread im new to all of this but i am mechanical so this seems fun. Anyways heres my plan so far as far as parts. Everything is coming in the mail already just waiting and doing research.

Khs police mountain bike 21"
Sd stinger motor kit
Sick bike parts Hd shift kit
Sbp right and left chain tensioners
Sbp expansion chamber
Sbp rear mega range rear cassette
The new multi speed stretch proof
Maxxis hookworms

Anyways i plan on doing some custom intake ram air thing with a stocking over it as a filter, i plan on using this bike as a daily and weekend racer so if anyone has any advice would be really helpful. Ive already sank in around 1000 so any free or cheap mods are the best right. I also plan on port matching the exaust tubes to the gasket. I have most all my sbp order but still waiting for my sd stinger. Im soo excited for my first build and i want to do it proper from the start so thanks for any help out there. zpt

paul · Mar 28, 2014

hi john and welcome to the forum, I think a khs police mountain bike is going to make a great motorized bicycle, khs makes a great bike and their police ones I think are awesome, look forward to updates and pictures of your new ride. glad you joined us

jmoreno19871987 · Mar 28, 2014

Yes for sure. I may need to run a smaller rear tire cause on hard turning even without any of the motorized. Stuff it seems to rub on the lower frame tubeon the left side. Anyone have a remedy for this. Could it be that something is bent? I just had the rim trued too

2door · Mar 30, 2014

John, welcome to the forum. Sounds like an ambitious project for a first build. Good luck.

As for the rear wheel interference with the frame; are you sure the wheel is centered in the dropouts and not mounted at an angle? Some frames don't allow much in the way of rear wheel misalignment and require that it be centered and true. Does it have any wobble to it when you free spin it or does it contact the frame through a full revolution?

Whatever, you'll want to address that probelm before motorizing the bike. The rear sprocket must be aligned with the engine drive sprocket. If the wheel is off-center you'll have chain issues.

Tom

jmoreno19871987 · Mar 30, 2014

Everything seems to be right as far as installation i plan on using the 8 speed mega range cassette from sbp but its on back order and they took it off the product line up at the moment. I might have to buy from someone else because my motor is coming tomarrow and i know that you need all new parts for reliabilit. Does anyone know of a good 9 speed cassette i can use that will be better if i must buy one from a bike store. I hate having to buy twice. :-||

jmoreno19871987 · Mar 30, 2014

Hopefully that will solve it. Or get a whole new wheel :-||

Going2Hell · Apr 2, 2014

You said you recently had your wheel trued?

Check to make sure your rim is centered on your hub, its called dishing. You can gain alot of clearance and lose alot of clearance really quickly.

Sheldonbrown.com has alot of great how-to's on some of that technical stuff and a Glossary with more helpful hints.

jmoreno19871987 · Apr 4, 2014

Ok heres my update!!!! All my parts are in. The rear wheel is good now that i replaced the cassette. Now the motor and shift kit are together now that i shaved the block. Its all assembled and ready to start. I mixed my fuel to about 18-1. I did run into issuses. The spark plug boot would not connect to the plug for the life of me. I ended up braking the plastic so i unscrewed it and went to a motorsports place and they repleced it with a plug boot from ngk that fit my spark plug. The manual said to unscrew the gold brass tip from the plug but that wouldnt even budge so i left it. I tried riding with the plug out to check for spark...i may have seen one or two weak ones. Another issue wss the clutch would not release to ride normal so i unscrewedthe clutch side and had to adjust that so thats fixed.but it still wont start. Some other issue was the carb was installed upside down at first and i tried starting it i dont know if that would damage anything. I then had clearance issues so i took the air filter housing off and just screwed on the inner plastic piece and filter material. One other thing i did to gain clearance was to flip the intake manifold tube upside down again maybe a bad thing? Any tips guys? :-||

SuperDave · Apr 5, 2014

Tire rubbing the frame/chain? Yeah, I had that problem too, tracked it down to the axle shifting around in the dropouts. I ended up using banjo bolts to lock in the axle. However, my frame is a Skyhawk GT2 with reverse dropouts (axle slides out horizontally to the rear to exit) where most bikes use 'Forward' dropouts (axle slides diagonally forwards & down to exit). I don't know how your frame is set up, if you have the forwards style, banjos may not work for you. But for the sake of argument, here's what they look like & where to get them online in case your local bike shop doesn't/can't get them.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Chain-Tension-Adjuster-Banjo/dp/B000AO7IH4/ref=sr_1_21?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1307212984&sr=1-21

I'd recommend a spark plug upgrade, the tri-prong radial plugs that come with these kits are junk, go with NGK B6HS or BP6HS (BP is a flat seat & comes with a ring gasket, B is acorn style seat, no gasket), maybe heat range 7 if it runs hot (it'll ping on cheap gas). DON'T use the Champion L86C! It will overheat, mine did & it warped the head! Next up is the plug wire; I ripped my wire out of my coil, (some of them are glued in & need you to dig out the junk with a wire pick before installing the new wire) & I used an MSD plug wire left over from a tune up I gave my truck. Even a used wire from a car is better than the new wires in our kits. Cut to length (about a foot) & strip off 1/2" of insulation cover, slide on an inch of shrink wrap tubing & thread into the coil(the contact pin is a spring style pigtail screw). Once it's in as deep as you can get it, slide the heatshrink over the end, heat it with a lighter and you'll have a watertight connection that can be serviced again if the wire needs replacing. Silicon could be used too, but I think heatshrink is cleaner & looks more professional.

Last up, go to the link below & download both Gordon Jenning's 2Stroke Tuner's Handbook, and Graham Bell's Performance Tuning. Knowledge is the most powerful upgrade you can get and cannot be understated. Even better, they are free downloads. Read it. Learn it. Do it. Be awesome.

http://www.scootershack.co.uk/threads/two-stroke-tuners-handbook-by-gordon-jennings-pdf-manual.25450/

Search

Hi my name is john, starting first build with sd stinger and shift kit

jmoreno19871987

New Member

paul

Well-Known Member

jmoreno19871987

New Member

2door

Moderator

jmoreno19871987

New Member

jmoreno19871987

New Member

Going2Hell

Member

jmoreno19871987

New Member

SuperDave

Member

Attachments