hi i just ordered a chinese 80 cc kit and am looking for helpful tips on what to do to prevent nightmares. like i heard of mounting studs snapping flush with engine and chain tensioners falling into spokes just trying to avoid stuff like that.any TIPS or sharing of headaches that happend to you or someone you know will be GREATLY appreciated and used in my build thanks.
What you would of done in the first place
- Thread starter rimotorbiker
- Start date
Haven't had either of the above happen yet. Studs can be replaced.
The tensioner:
1. Set it in place with a set screw.
2. Full size spoke guards
3. Replace with tractor supply spring tensioner
4. If you have axel, get a bearing tensioner, if bearing, make sure the bearing is in good condition and make sure the wheel cannot pivot on the bearing, you can stop the pivoting with a large washer.
5. Remove completely if you have room to adjust for chain stretch, and proper chain line.
6. Ride in fear. :/
#4 has only been a problem previously, the wheel would pivot on the bearing, but I put a large washer between nut/wheel and it stops the nut from eating at the wheel. This can also happen if the chain is too tight.
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Leaky Gas...
Make sure you get a good fuel filter and enough hose clamps to sinch down each part of line. Get some yellow plumbers tape( theres a real word for that, its petroleum resistant, white is not and can end up as gunk in the line if you don't have a good filter)
Make sure the carb inlet is tight but be careful as it can break.
Air leaks
Get yourself some orange(copper?) permatex sealant, you can do the intake and exhaust gaskets and not have to mess with the crap gaskets usually provided, namely the exhaust.
Get a chain break tool that fits #41 chain and/or get extra chain/master links.
Just picked up 10' of chain at the auto store for $17, numerous threads discuss it, even some suggesting normal bike chain is working well? Take the breaker and a master link in a tool bag. When you finally end up needing it... it's usually in a crappy place or you don't have it, miles from home etc. I had the master link pop. I broke the chain and put it back together with the breaker and haven't had a problem since, but I got new chain and plan to swap as it's been over 6 months of daily 30km plus riding.
Run a good rich mix during your break-in, it helps lubricate the whole engine.
I ran the first 500k with a regular 2 stroke oil and now on amsoil interceptor synth at 40:1 (its designed for 50:1) . Higher quality gases will not really benefit you.
Don't skimp out on your mounts. And try to use u-bolts or something around the frame instead of drilling the frame with oversized tubing, the the places to break down the better.
Watch your tires, with alot of riding they can wear, watch the walls. I've made it home (15km) on fix a flat, though not recommended, even on the can. That was friday night
Check all of your bolts often.
Don't let inexperienced friends ride your bike. Friend or bike usually gets hurt.
Be responsible, do what the regulations in your area require, unless it's looping you around in circles. Goto your local bike shop and grab the map of all the bike routes in your area.
Generally if you treat it well and don't really ride it like a dirt bike, it will last you a long time.
Have a good read through the forums and you will gain allot of knowledge and ideas for your ride.
Take care!
The tensioner:
1. Set it in place with a set screw.
2. Full size spoke guards
3. Replace with tractor supply spring tensioner
4. If you have axel, get a bearing tensioner, if bearing, make sure the bearing is in good condition and make sure the wheel cannot pivot on the bearing, you can stop the pivoting with a large washer.
5. Remove completely if you have room to adjust for chain stretch, and proper chain line.
6. Ride in fear. :/
#4 has only been a problem previously, the wheel would pivot on the bearing, but I put a large washer between nut/wheel and it stops the nut from eating at the wheel. This can also happen if the chain is too tight.
----
Leaky Gas...
Make sure you get a good fuel filter and enough hose clamps to sinch down each part of line. Get some yellow plumbers tape( theres a real word for that, its petroleum resistant, white is not and can end up as gunk in the line if you don't have a good filter)
Make sure the carb inlet is tight but be careful as it can break.
Air leaks
Get yourself some orange(copper?) permatex sealant, you can do the intake and exhaust gaskets and not have to mess with the crap gaskets usually provided, namely the exhaust.
Get a chain break tool that fits #41 chain and/or get extra chain/master links.
Just picked up 10' of chain at the auto store for $17, numerous threads discuss it, even some suggesting normal bike chain is working well? Take the breaker and a master link in a tool bag. When you finally end up needing it... it's usually in a crappy place or you don't have it, miles from home etc. I had the master link pop. I broke the chain and put it back together with the breaker and haven't had a problem since, but I got new chain and plan to swap as it's been over 6 months of daily 30km plus riding.
Run a good rich mix during your break-in, it helps lubricate the whole engine.
I ran the first 500k with a regular 2 stroke oil and now on amsoil interceptor synth at 40:1 (its designed for 50:1) . Higher quality gases will not really benefit you.
Don't skimp out on your mounts. And try to use u-bolts or something around the frame instead of drilling the frame with oversized tubing, the the places to break down the better.
Watch your tires, with alot of riding they can wear, watch the walls. I've made it home (15km) on fix a flat, though not recommended, even on the can. That was friday night
Check all of your bolts often.
Don't let inexperienced friends ride your bike. Friend or bike usually gets hurt.
Be responsible, do what the regulations in your area require, unless it's looping you around in circles. Goto your local bike shop and grab the map of all the bike routes in your area.
Generally if you treat it well and don't really ride it like a dirt bike, it will last you a long time.
Have a good read through the forums and you will gain allot of knowledge and ideas for your ride.
Take care!
no need for a chain breaker... dremel with a grinding wheel, vice and a punch is all you need to shorten a chain.. make sure you don't remove the inner link and leave only an outer link on the end you shorten as you need the inner link for the master link... did that once
Dremels and vice dont fit in your toolbag to get you home when it happens.
Not to mention the extra stress you put on the chain doing it that way, pop the pin(s) with the breaker and your good, takes 5 mins tops if you know what your doing and only puts minimal stress in that area of the chain.
Not to mention the extra stress you put on the chain doing it that way, pop the pin(s) with the breaker and your good, takes 5 mins tops if you know what your doing and only puts minimal stress in that area of the chain.
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doing it with a dremal and a punch won't fit in your tool bag, but it doesn't put any extra stress on the chain because you lock it in the vice with the link your removing. don't take much preassure to hold it ither, no more than a chain breaker takes, and it's 1/2 the hassle.... but yes if it snaps on the road, your left with 2 options, pedal home or use a breaker and master link and fix it
In my eyes, its about 2-3 times the hassle, you double the amount of tools.
It becomes non portable and I still think for someone new, a break would cause less stress.
I can see some guys banging away at the thing, or not locking it down good and bending links or etc. heh. I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'd just consider it a last resort.
My breaker cost $9 and it's paid for itself more than once this year, getting me home and getting a buddy home from outside of the city about 20km. There are times when it just comes in handy.
It becomes non portable and I still think for someone new, a break would cause less stress.
I can see some guys banging away at the thing, or not locking it down good and bending links or etc. heh. I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'd just consider it a last resort.
My breaker cost $9 and it's paid for itself more than once this year, getting me home and getting a buddy home from outside of the city about 20km. There are times when it just comes in handy.
try a place like tractor supply company, they'll have a breaker that will work.. don't use the cheap bell breaker from walmart.. it does fit the 415 chain but it's soft aluminum and it will twist itself apart when you try to break it.. I tried using it on my chain but when it bent like a stick of butter, I just did it the old way, cause I didn't have a good breaker at the time but my chain did need shortening... I'v got a good breaker now, but it's harder for me to use than doing it with a punch and grinder
first off my tip: "Pray that the kit you bought is well built and inspected" if it arrives ok youve mostly completed the build...lol
second tip: Have patience, TRY not rush, its super hard to do this, but dividing tasks works well.
3rd tip: be specially attentive to your rear sprocket mount and the motor mounts.
4th: should be the most important thing! DO NOT OVER TORQUE ANYTHING! just tighten it firmly.
most bikes will run the first day...but dont worry if yours dont...i took 3 weeks! but now im having much fun
about the chain, all kits i know of come with either 415 or 415h (only difference is that 415H is thicker) A chain breaker and couple of 415 links are very handy.....the breaker is specially needed when adding links to a chain...most dont need this.
second tip: Have patience, TRY not rush, its super hard to do this, but dividing tasks works well.
3rd tip: be specially attentive to your rear sprocket mount and the motor mounts.
4th: should be the most important thing! DO NOT OVER TORQUE ANYTHING! just tighten it firmly.
most bikes will run the first day...but dont worry if yours dont...i took 3 weeks! but now im having much fun
about the chain, all kits i know of come with either 415 or 415h (only difference is that 415H is thicker) A chain breaker and couple of 415 links are very handy.....the breaker is specially needed when adding links to a chain...most dont need this.
What I wish I would have done first is returned the darn thing for one with a warranty.
If I had done that I wouldn't have had to replace two busted piston rings (that came busted). I wouldn't have had to Deal with the fact that some pieces in the kit weren't up to par. . . (Namely my carb) and then I would have had a nice piece of equipment when it got here so trouble shooting would have been reduced to a minimum.
I spent a month and a half fixing this and fixing that and finally I've got a second vehicle to use. I had a great time tinkering with it though. . . and now that it runs I Love it!
If I had done that I wouldn't have had to replace two busted piston rings (that came busted). I wouldn't have had to Deal with the fact that some pieces in the kit weren't up to par. . . (Namely my carb) and then I would have had a nice piece of equipment when it got here so trouble shooting would have been reduced to a minimum.
I spent a month and a half fixing this and fixing that and finally I've got a second vehicle to use. I had a great time tinkering with it though. . . and now that it runs I Love it!
oh man i hope it dont come with to many problems i dont want a hole shaped like the engine through my garage door (bad temper)ill just have to keep my fingers crossed.
if you have a front fender the mount will break replace with metal mount and bolts.
if you dont tighnen sparkplug all the way it will loosen and leak gas/oil.
double nut all bolts or you will loose your metric nuts,bike brakes use same size metric nuts if you have some laying around you can borrow from them.
careful with the gas caps,the tabs on them break easy and the caps are hard to find locally,i found a rubber oil filler cap that fits(need to make vent hole) Napa # 703-2300 $3. its best to keep extra cain master links around. its also good to take plastic ties,bugee cords and cresent adjustable wrench with you when riding.
if you dont tighnen sparkplug all the way it will loosen and leak gas/oil.
double nut all bolts or you will loose your metric nuts,bike brakes use same size metric nuts if you have some laying around you can borrow from them.
careful with the gas caps,the tabs on them break easy and the caps are hard to find locally,i found a rubber oil filler cap that fits(need to make vent hole) Napa # 703-2300 $3. its best to keep extra cain master links around. its also good to take plastic ties,bugee cords and cresent adjustable wrench with you when riding.
