My carb slide is binding up in hte bore of the carb. It is the stock kit carb and it was working fine. I went to remove and replace the slider and I could not get the it back in the bore. Holding the slot aligned to the pin, still it would not go in all of the way. I took the carb apart and the slider went in the bore without the emulsion tube on. The emulsion tube fits smoothly over the needle. I put it all together and after 3 times of working the throttle, it bound up. I checked the bore, slider and needle for smoothness and there are no burs, nice and smooth and clean, so I am confused!
Carb Slide Binding Up
- Thread starter supercub
- Start date
It would help us to know what carburetor. "stock" doesn't mean much.
If you have the NT carb how tight are you making the cap where the cable enters the carburetor? Over tightening that cap can distort the carb body and cause the barrel (slide) to bind up. The cap only needs to be finger tight. Don't use any tool on it.
Are you sure its your carburetor that's binding? You might have a bind in the cable. Any tight bends or kinks in it? Have you lubricated the cable and the thimble in the twist grip. The thimble is the plastic part that the cable wraps around as you twist the throttle. They can develope rough spots that will keep the cable from traveling free.
Come back and let us know what you find.
Tom
If you have the NT carb how tight are you making the cap where the cable enters the carburetor? Over tightening that cap can distort the carb body and cause the barrel (slide) to bind up. The cap only needs to be finger tight. Don't use any tool on it.
Are you sure its your carburetor that's binding? You might have a bind in the cable. Any tight bends or kinks in it? Have you lubricated the cable and the thimble in the twist grip. The thimble is the plastic part that the cable wraps around as you twist the throttle. They can develope rough spots that will keep the cable from traveling free.
Come back and let us know what you find.
Tom
It is the NT carb. Cap was only finger tight and the slider was not going in enough for the cap to go on so the cable is not the issue. I will take the slider apart and try it inside the barrel and work from there.
You're positive you're getting the slots lined up right? The long slot to the right, looking down, and the short slot to the left.
One slot aligns with a pin that keeps the barrel from rotating (long slot) the other is where the idle speed screw engages the slide.
Tom
I pulled the bowl off and it slid together smoothly. I think that when the bowl screws are tightened, the card distorts. I am using allen screws so maybe I am tightening more than the regular screws would have let me. I will make a new gasket and tighten lightly, should be fine.
when u pulled the bowl off... was the brass peice cennected to the carb or sitting in the bowl????
sounds like it may have fallen out, and stopping the needle from goin all the way down. it is supposed to be connected to carb
sounds like it may have fallen out, and stopping the needle from goin all the way down. it is supposed to be connected to carb
Here's some info from ThatsDax on how to properly assemble the throttle cable to the slide:
http://thatsdax.com/INSTALL_PAGE_3.html
Good Luck,
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
http://thatsdax.com/INSTALL_PAGE_3.html
Good Luck,
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
The emulsion tube is in. The carb was definately warping. I will resurface the top of the bowl and check the base for flatness. I will make a gasket from some cork material that I have and tighten just a little.
I found that the base was warped. I made a gasket from thick cork material. It went together OK but if I tighten up the screws it tweaks the carb enough to lock up the slider. I will try it out but long term I need a better carb. I have a Bing 12 I can use. I recently put new tires on it and a new crank. The stock one lasted about 2 miles before vibrating and about 20 miles before it locked up. Looks like the rod at the large end didn't have enough of an oil journal cut into the sides of it. The new one has alot of space for oil to travel to the bearings. Last thing to do is find a better tank as the tank started leaking due to a crack but I will test it out using a temp tank.
