Problem: Engine wont "spark" or "ignite"

GoldenMotor.com

1dave1

New Member
Nov 29, 2012
36
0
0
San Diego
Hi guys,

Ive been having a little problem...

I went out on a ride the other night and mid way through, the engine stopped sparking/igniting. I had to walk the damn thing home. I have a few ideas of what went wrong but I would like some input before I go buying replacement parts.

First off, one of ends of the cables from the kills switch is completely fried off. Its now just a melted end of a cable but still, I wouldnt think that this would stop the bike from igniting, and instead, it would only prevent the kill switch from working. The other one is fine. Am I wrong? Does the kill switch need to be connected perfectly for bike to "spark" (ie. turn on)

Second, my spark plug is basically beaten to ****. Its pretty damn dirty too. In addition, the black plastic cable/thing that comes from the little black box (I know, sorry, don't know what to call it) just barely sits on top of the spark plug. It doesnt screw into the spark plug or click in. It just barely relaxes on top of it. The weird thing is that the bike sparked/ignited fine with it just like that. Do you think that is the problem?

Should I buy a new spark plug? How bout a new kill switch cable? Perhaps something else?

Everything other electrical cable seems to fit in nicely. For example, the black cable from the engine fits nicely into the black cable from the little black box thingy, as does the blue/green cable.

I'm not the most sophisticated bike engine guy, as evidenced by my post, but am I missing something?

Thanks for your help.

Dave
 

1dave1

New Member
Nov 29, 2012
36
0
0
San Diego
Thanks for the responses.

The fried end was not touching the engine. I attached it to my handle bars to make sure. The magneto? Thats interesting. I will look that up.

I forgot to mention that the spark plug boot cdi boot cap is missing. Could that prevent the spark from igniting the engine? Forgive my faulty terminology.
 

1dave1

New Member
Nov 29, 2012
36
0
0
San Diego
I looked up the magneto. How would I know if its fried? It looks like the blue and black cables coming from the engine are intact
 

matthurd

New Member
Dec 13, 2010
817
2
0
manchester NH
as long as the cdi has a solid connection it should still spark, if it disconnects off a bounce, obviously that would be a problem, but in general it should still work. when i thought i had fried the cdi it was in fact the magneto back when i had issues. i had gotten it a bit wet from the road with some road salt on it, was't pretty, but with a replacement it was an easy fix.

and again just make sure the killswitch isn't acting as a ground like butter pointed out. .
 

1dave1

New Member
Nov 29, 2012
36
0
0
San Diego
Oh crap, I think I know what might have happened. The CDI connection is no longer good. Not sure though. Heres why I say that...

I lost the little plastic CDI cap that kind of holds the CDI onto the spark plug. Its the little black plastic thing that goes over the spark plug. The bike started fine however and we went for a nice long ride. It was semi wet though and 1/2 way though, no spark. Perhaps water ruined the spark plug because it wasnt protected. If so, what is the cheapest or best fix? Should I clean the spark plug off? Should I buy a new one?

Take a look at the link below for what I mean..

I really appreciate the advice and guidance.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-IMPROVE...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232558af79
 

matthurd

New Member
Dec 13, 2010
817
2
0
manchester NH
both spark plugs, and the cdis are cheap fixes. you can completely rebuild the electrics on a HT for about $30+ shipping. http://www.piratecycles1.com/magneto.html

http://www.piratecycles1.com/cdibox.html

not 100% sure on the spark plug type anymore but they're cheap. iv'e had awesome luck with piratecycles in the past, when i was still playing with these. can't speak for them now but, like i said in the past customer service was great.
 

Deiseldave

New Member
Dec 8, 2012
118
3
0
50
Warren, PA
I had the same problem happen... putting along and then nothing... the guts from the stock CDI sparkplug boot vibrated apart and I lost the Insulator at the conection. Just replace the boot ( I went to a motorcycle shop and sold one to me for $3.00 ) . Once I did that she fired up with no Problem
 

1dave1

New Member
Nov 29, 2012
36
0
0
San Diego
my killl switch is definitely shorted. But would that stop the bike from sparking? I would thing it would only effect the kill switch from working. btw, the shorted kill switch is not touching the engine or any metal and acting as a ground. Is that what you meant? I could be very wrong. though of course. Especially because everything worked perfectly until that thing shorted. it looks like a burned mangled thing now but I cant find the little metalic end of it. Please let me know if not having the kill switch connected or having the kill

Slight update: I just tried to start the bike with an older spark plug and the first few times I heard the popping noise but it was not enough to start the engine. Sounded like it was going to go though. Thats what makes me think the kill switch is not needed to spark the engine.

What I think is that i pushed the cdi coil too hard onto the spark plug when its really just supposed to rest on it. Perhaps the medal is no longer in the right place. I also looked down into the cdi thing that goes onto the spark plug and it looked rusted over. Sprayed some wd 40 on it, heard the fizz, but when I went to start it, no go :(

Please respond about the shorted kill switch fuse and how that would effect the bike from igniting.

oh yeah, thanks a ton guys
 

1dave1

New Member
Nov 29, 2012
36
0
0
San Diego
Deiseldave, can you post a link so I know what you are talking about :) forgive me, I'm sort of a noob.

I posted a pick of what im talking about also. please take a look.
 

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matthurd

New Member
Dec 13, 2010
817
2
0
manchester NH
the killswitch isn't a huge factor as long as it isn't acting as a ground. if you have it grounding out, it's not going to put out any power at all. try to eliminate it as a factor, i forget exactly how they're set up, since i haven't worked on these in over a year, but again, remove it from the equation if you can.

the push button may even be stuck in, causing a complete circuit which would then act as a ground.
 

SubieGuy

New Member
Sep 3, 2012
39
0
0
Canada
I'd personally start off with:

- Installing a new spark plug
- Replacing the spark plug wire with an automotive grade wire/boot.
- Making sure the killswitch wire isn't grounding
 

blunted429

New Member
Jan 22, 2013
4
0
0
Seattle
My bike has been running for a couple months. Died while ridin in heavy rain. I made new BETTER quality spark plug coil head thing. didnt work. so i got a new coil and didnt work. so i ordered a new magneto and it def should work. wil find out in 6 days....
 

Deiseldave

New Member
Dec 8, 2012
118
3
0
50
Warren, PA
1Dave1--- The Spark plug boot is the part in your hands .to remove it from insulator wire , turn counter clockwise. I recommend the NKG spark plug boots from a local motorcycle shop , they r affordable and don't vibrate loose.
The kit boots are Ok but they vibrate loose the componants in the boot sometimes as it did in mine. I just replaced it , but the components are as follows,
1: boot casing ( Black L shape with screw and Plate inside
2: insulator spring (spring between the lead and the spark plug connecter)
3: spark plug connecter (when you look into boot it will be brass looking and round)
4: clip ( this grabs the post )

If any of this fails then the Plug boot wont work
This is only referring to the boots that come with the kits.
 
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Deiseldave

New Member
Dec 8, 2012
118
3
0
50
Warren, PA
And as for your kill switch problem , Disconnect the kill switch leads from wiring , try to start the motor .... if it starts then you know your kill switch is bad , You can run the motor , but will have to cut the bike off by choking it out as I do.