AutoBike Cruiser

Nice bike. Looking forward to seeing the build.

Been riding my LandRider autoshift for more than 5 years now shifts very smoothly. And yes I use a shiftkit.

I think another person was attempting to do a build with an Autobike on here. I don't remember if they were trying to do a jackshift build.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=53135&highlight=Autobike

https://youtu.be/pGDGIIdn--s

On the LandRider derailleur there's a cadence adjustment screw. Does the Autobike have anything like that? The LR derailleur has 3 tension control springs. 2 are vertical and 1 horizontal. The cadence screw varies the tension in the horizontal spring. The horizontal spring can also be tightened 180° too. The tighter this spring the higher the speed needed to make it change gears. On my bike I also found B indexing the derailleur as far forward as you can helps with the downshifting when climbing steep hills. Tweaking the throttle and pedaling also smooths out the shifting. You may find the need to tighten the jockey pully arm (vertical) spring. To do this you'll have to drill holes for it. This helps to keep the chain from coming off the small rear sprockets. Check the rear axle also. It may need to be replaced with a cromolly axle. The factory one on the LandRider bent on my second ride. I now use a Staton Inc hub and had David design me a rear axle which uses sleeves to hold it in place instead of external retainer rings. My preferred bicycle chain is a SRAM 890.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=58426&highlight=Broken+Axle

That's a high low screw for setting the lateral movement. What you could do is somehow attach contraction springs to the weights. Then it'll take more centrifugal force to push the weights out. The springs will have attach to the bottom of the weights and hub.

All multi rear sprocket bikes shift by means of a derailleur. The autoshift bikes use centrifugal force instead of a cable or a electric signal to move the derailleur arm.

The screw you're talking about is it turned to max? This may be some kind of cadence screw then.

Couldn't really tell from the video but is there some kind of spring in the back which pulls the weights back to the center? Also the spring in the lateral arm can be tightened 180°. You'll have to loosen the pins on the swivel head which holds the jockey pully arm. To turn the spring a 180°.

You have a total of two springs in the derailleur. One is a vertical movement spring. The other is a lateral movement spring. The vertical spring controls the jockey pully arm. Is there any springs in the mechanism itself to pull the weights back to the center of the hub?

The lateral spring is the one which has the high low screws next to it. This is the spring that you can tighten by putting a 180° twist in it. You have two pins which is the pivot point for the jockey pulley arm. You'll have to remove the pin that the spring is attached to. Then you can put 180° twist in the spring to tighten it. The LR derailleur uses E rings to hold these pins in. Since yours is bradded in you'll have to make a new pin. A hobby shop metal lathe could make pins with grooves for E rings. Or you could use a small nail tread the ends with a die and use small nuts with Loctite. It's the lateral spring that has a cadence adjustment screw on it on the LR derailleur. The tension can be adjusted.

Here's what's happening with your derailleur the vertical spring adjust for the gear size and chain tension. The lateral spring controls the speed the gears change at. As centrifugal force pulls the weights out the plate pushes the chain to the right which is being met by an opposing force of the lateral spring. As the centrifugal force becomes less the lateral spring force pushes the chain back to the left.

Other things which will help is tightening the jockey pulley arm spring and B indexing the derailleur forward. I'll make you a video to better explain some of this stuff.