Made it 1/4 mi. on the maiden voyage before disaster... HELP

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Zack01GC

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
I finally got the bike together and running with my Chinese 2-stroke kit.

I realized that:

1. the clutch was not functioning properly, because it would not disengage AT ALL. I only stopped the motor by stalling it. Pulling back on the lever did not disengage the engine. How can I fix this? I had to carry it all the way back to my apartment due to the rear wheel being locked up, what do I need to do to free it and ride on?

2. The kill switch did not work either. Can someone show me how to wire the engine and CDI so that it all works as planned?

Thanks in advance, I'd like to be riding again tomorrow!!
 
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Bike Monster

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Jun 4, 2010
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Conneticut
Hi Zack01GC,

I had that problem with the clutch... try tightening the clutch by moving the piece with the screw down till it does work... if this is the problem then it should be fine... and with the kill switch i cant help due to the fact i haven't hooked mine up yet... good luck.
 

Zack01GC

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Sep 14, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
I did try tightening it, but no luck. Pulled the cable towards me with pliers, then tightened down the screw against the arm. Still locked up/engaged.
 
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Zack01GC

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
Thanks man. The diagram helped.

However, I adjusted the clutch cable, nothing changed. I guess it's time to pull the cover and go inside the clutch arm housing?
 

Zack01GC

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
CRAP. I just stripped 2 of the 3 screws holding the clutch arm cover on. Now I'm really screwed - no pun intended.

Now I really have no idea what to do.
 

killercanuck

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Dec 17, 2009
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Wallaceburg ON
aw snap! Get the right sized Philips bit(the huge one). You might be able to get a slot to fit deep enough(no pun intended). If your bits the wrong size try not to strip it anymore until you find one that fits properly man.

gl.
 

Zack01GC

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
Currently looking for easy-outs. I have a pretty big screwdriver (no pun intended), and still stripped those two screws like their heads were made of butter.
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
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San Diego, Kaliforgnia
With the quality of metal that the screws are made of, they might as well be made of butter. If you can, get the hardware upgrade kit sold by SBP. You will not regret it.
Sick Bike Parts
Good luck on getting un-screwed (pun intended) and getting the clutch to cooperate.
 

killercanuck

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Dec 17, 2009
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Hmm, well until you can get the cover off, you could try the 'rope-lock' trick to try and free it up. Get a couple feet of small rope, tie a huge knot in one end, and feed it into your sparkplug hole while @BDC('ish). The knot is so it doesn't fall all the way in. :p That will keep the piston from turning over so you can reef on the back tire.

Does that sound right guys?
 

Elixys

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Sep 14, 2010
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Midland, TX
i understand how you could have stripped the screws out on the clutch case cover as i did the exact same thing with two of my three screws.....i went down to the local hardware store and bought a set of "GRABIT" drill bits.....came home, followed instructions and walaa came right out.
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
That sounds pretty close. I like to have the piston closer to TDC (Top Dead Center) though, just after the exhaust port has been covered. That way the rope has no chance of going down one of the ports and getting into trouble.
 

Zack01GC

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
Well, went a bought a GrabIt, didn't work (screw heads were too soft for it to even bite. I wound up drilling the heads off to get the cover off.

The chain was just bound up. No biggie.
 

Elixys

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Sep 14, 2010
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Midland, TX
add a little grease to the end so it gets some grease on the ball bearing and yeah you should be able to put it right back in......every time i take my cover off the arm falls out.....i just stuff it back in....make sure its going in the right way. and sorry the grabits didnt work for ya. hope you kept the receipt.
 
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Zack01GC

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
I'm going to give it to my buddy who was nice enough to lend me his drill.

Well, I'm going to slide the arm in and put it back together (just got back from the hardware store with 2 new screws), so wish me luck, I want to be on the street again by dark. Haha
 

Zack01GC

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
Well, I put it back together and it works now... but the thing won't stay running. I let go of the clutch, the engine kicks on, but then dies within 5 seconds. Also, if I give it throttle, it just bogs and dies anyway.

I pulled the clutch lever in, and the bike did not stay on. It dies almost as soon as I pull the lever in.

Damn this little tweaking stuff! It ran fine yesterday before the chain got bound up... why isn't it running now?
 
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Elixys

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
127
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Midland, TX
you have to adjust the idle screw on the left side of the carbeurator (the screw next to the tickler button and it should have a spring on it) in all the way and then adjust it back out 3-3 and a half turns. depending on how fast you want the idle to run. that should fix the problem with it dying as soon as you pull the clutch lever. as far as it dying after 5 seconds of it running, make sure you are getting fuel flow into the carbeurator and that your carb bowl's float isnt stuck somewhere.....push the tickle button in about 5-6 times to make sure fuel is in there....you should see bubbles going up the fuel line into the fuel filter.....if you arent getting fuel flow you could have a problem with a vaccum being caused in your fuel tank....if thats the problem drill a very small hole in either the top of the tank or like I did a small hole in the gas cap itself just to keep a vaccuum from forming in the fuel tank....now if those issues arent what the problem is then the next thing would be to check your spark plug. if its all white and new looking then you arent getting enough fuel.....see above problem solving tips....if its all black and thick gunky looking stuff is all over it then the mixture is too rich and you should adjust the carb "C" clip up to the next level up on the carb needle......its not too difficult to pop the c clip off the needle with a pair of needle nose pliers and move it up one notch and pop it back on....just be sure to put the carb barrel back in the correct way. (the notch on the bottom of the carb slide barrel should be aligned with the idle screw. if you put it in backwards you will only go full throttle and probably wipe out before you can get it to stop....personal experience)...try running like that...let us know how it does.......:)....be sure to wear your helmet
:) Eli
 

Zack01GC

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
87
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Pittsburgh, PA
Thanks, I will try some of that stuff.

EDIT: tried the carburetor, still wouldn't idle but I got about 350 feet out of it (just kept going and going, I didn't even have to touch the throttle... dangerous much?) I guess I should pull the carb apart like you mentioned. The plug was was very wet.

Okay, got it running successfully. However, I still think I need to adjust the clutch somehow, it seems as if it's not fully disengaging the engine as I pull it in. I have to pull it all the way to the handlebar to get it to somewhat disengage the engine.
 
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