Luft Wulf "Texaco Motor Bike"
- Thread starter GTX
- Start date
Thanks for the comments Guys!!
I have never drilled the dropouts...there are usually 3 holes...a 3/8 axle slot,and two threaded smaller ones for fender struts.Get your rim in there before cranking the bolts all the way down to check for alignment.
Mine are not welded in on this one,they cannot move with locktite and locknuts on the bolts!
Here are some of the diff shapes I have used.
I have never drilled the dropouts...there are usually 3 holes...a 3/8 axle slot,and two threaded smaller ones for fender struts.Get your rim in there before cranking the bolts all the way down to check for alignment.
Mine are not welded in on this one,they cannot move with locktite and locknuts on the bolts!
Here are some of the diff shapes I have used.
Last edited:
I'm workin' on a Cafe style now.MTB lite frame,Triple tree fork with Mongoose disc,Trek and Ritchey bars,Cane Creek threadlesssealed bearing headset,Nirve Badass 26x2.125 tires...It needs a stretch in back,it's short. I have a rear disc wheel for it,but get no response from anyone that says they have the adapter ready to sell for the drive sprocket that allows disc use on the rear.
I like the info on the dropouts - and the monark springer rocks. Hope you don't mind, but I may borrow the design. One question - does the rear wheel assembly feel more rigid than before? Any side to side wiggle?
Why not use a cackshaft, bring the chain to the right side, and then you wont have to worry about needing an adapter.
I'm workin' on a Cafe style now.MTB lite frame,Triple tree fork with Mongoose disc,Trek and Ritchey bars,Cane Creek threadlesssealed bearing headset,Nirve Badass 26x2.125 tires...It needs a stretch in back,it's short. I have a rear disc wheel for it,but get no response from anyone that says they have the adapter ready to sell for the drive sprocket that allows disc use on the rear.
If the customer is willing to pay the extra $250 plus installation,I can put a jackshaft on.That plus the cost of a good derailer puts the cost in the stratosphere.There is not a market for $1,500 bicycles here.I might do it on my own bike,but it goes fast enough with 1 speed.
The rear end with the extensions is actually really stiff...the plates are thicker than the bikes dropouts.
Once you bolt the axle in,it's all locked down,it's tighter than stock since the axle cannot move without a slot.Don't forget to buy 2 chains,BMX is what I use,since it will need to be longer.It will help you out to put the rear wheel approx where you want it before you finalize the extension design.Build your chain so you have correct slack in it.That way you may be able to avoid using 1/2 links.
It usually ends it with the axle being set between 2 1/2 and 3 inches to get the tension right.
The motor side slack can be taken up with the idler.
The rear end with the extensions is actually really stiff...the plates are thicker than the bikes dropouts.
Once you bolt the axle in,it's all locked down,it's tighter than stock since the axle cannot move without a slot.Don't forget to buy 2 chains,BMX is what I use,since it will need to be longer.It will help you out to put the rear wheel approx where you want it before you finalize the extension design.Build your chain so you have correct slack in it.That way you may be able to avoid using 1/2 links.
It usually ends it with the axle being set between 2 1/2 and 3 inches to get the tension right.
The motor side slack can be taken up with the idler.
This build of yours has given much food for thought. Down the line I'm going to be doing a three wheeler from a 1942 Schwinn "The World" step through bike and am thinking the rear extension would help give more room for pushing the seat back and even doing a rear engine set up with a greyhound down low. It should also make a three wheeler more stable I would think if it were stretched a bit. Nice way to stretch it. So thanks for that. I've also been thinking about the felt springer fork and wondering about your Murray. Wasn't it also a one inch steering tube? I don't understand how you're able to use a 1 1/8 springer fork on it. I sure hope there's a way, because I can see doing a number of Schwinn builds down the line using 40's and 50's frames. I like them, both the straightbar and the cantilever, but of course they are all 1" steering tubes. The rebuilt Monarks are pricey and I can't find a decent Schwinn type new that is very good. Any suggestions? Your bike is awesome.
SB
SB
I took it to a car show tonight and everyone thought it was either a kit bike,or real old motor bike.
Hey S.B.,thanks!! The Huffy frame I have is a '81 vintage I think.Monteray was on the chainguard.
The neck on the Huffy cruiser is a larger inside dia.,so the 1 1/8 headset is a drop in.The cool thing is,if you have a MTB with a suspension fork,and even disc brakes too,it will go on. I built one with a Mongoose Blackcomb complete fork and headset in a Huffy Cruiser.It would put you over the handlebars if you wanted it to...
got a pic from Our Bikes on cruizerbikes.com
The sealed bearing 1 1/8" black headset I used with the Felt Springer is the Origin 8 Pro. $22 at the LBS
Products Description – ORIGIN-8
The LBS gave me some takeoff Bontrager...(Trek) stems.They clamp on the fork tube and mount the bars.Most bike shops will have a drawer full of stockers they have exchanged for customers that wanted the thick dia. bars on their bike. It looks like this one...
Bontrager: Race 25.4 (Model #00744)
The threadless sealed is a totally different feel...super smooth,won't need adjustment,and dirt can't get in the bearings!
On the extensions...once you feel the difference they make at speed,you will do it to all the short wheelbasers.It relieves that "twitchy" feeling with the trail change.
Hey S.B.,thanks!! The Huffy frame I have is a '81 vintage I think.Monteray was on the chainguard.
The neck on the Huffy cruiser is a larger inside dia.,so the 1 1/8 headset is a drop in.The cool thing is,if you have a MTB with a suspension fork,and even disc brakes too,it will go on. I built one with a Mongoose Blackcomb complete fork and headset in a Huffy Cruiser.It would put you over the handlebars if you wanted it to...
got a pic from Our Bikes on cruizerbikes.com
The sealed bearing 1 1/8" black headset I used with the Felt Springer is the Origin 8 Pro. $22 at the LBS
Products Description – ORIGIN-8
The LBS gave me some takeoff Bontrager...(Trek) stems.They clamp on the fork tube and mount the bars.Most bike shops will have a drawer full of stockers they have exchanged for customers that wanted the thick dia. bars on their bike. It looks like this one...
Bontrager: Race 25.4 (Model #00744)
The threadless sealed is a totally different feel...super smooth,won't need adjustment,and dirt can't get in the bearings!
On the extensions...once you feel the difference they make at speed,you will do it to all the short wheelbasers.It relieves that "twitchy" feeling with the trail change.
