Okay ...straight newbie. Lotta fun puttin this build together. But I can't seem to get any clutch reaction from moving that silver clutch arm that the wire will go through. So that is supposed to move which then makes a tube that looks like a half circle turn and hit that rod in the middle of the motor sprocket. Then what? Mr rod doesn't go anywhere. I can pull it out but there's no pushing it. Can't disengage the clutch basically. Please help. Thanks.
Clutch works how?
- Thread starter Mo'Beffah
- Start date
just hook up the cable then see what hapens if its still stuck thats a hole nother prob when i got my new engine it was very hard to move the clutch by hand and much easyer with the clutch lever hooked up
New engines are notoriously hard to disengage the clutch. The clutch lever can be moved by hand but it takes a lot of force. Try wrapping a rag around the arm to protect your hand and really push hard, in towards the engine. It will move. The leverage applied by the clutch cable is much more than you might think. If the cable is attached correctly it will move the clutch lever enough to disengage the clutch. Make sure the cam and pin inside the actuator cover is well lubricated and a little light oil applied to the clutch cable inside the outer housing will also help. Keep the bends in the cable shallow with no sharp bends or kinks as it is routed from the handlebars to the engine.
Tom
Tom
Thanks. I just wanted to know if I was missing parts or something. It seemed rough. But just trying it with the clutch cable I got the bike to roll around a little. The chain is still too long so after I get that shortened it should work better. One more question....after you put the cable through the hole with the brass pin and tighten it down, what's the best way to secure the rest of the spare wire? Wrap it around the bar? Clamp it down somehow?
I usually just bend it back over itself and secure it with a small nylon tiewrap. If you want to get fancy you can use heat shrink tubing. I should have mentioned that a good idea is to solder the last inch or so if cable. That keeps it from fraying and unravling.
As for your chain; shoot for about 3/4 to 1 inch of slack measured on the top chain when you're pushing the bike forward, clutch engaged.
Tom
As for your chain; shoot for about 3/4 to 1 inch of slack measured on the top chain when you're pushing the bike forward, clutch engaged.
Tom
I just cut off the extra cable leaving about 4-5" for adjustment and put a cable ferrule on the tip
Cable Ferrules 10 Road Bike Shifter Shift Cable Tips End Caps Crimps - eBay (item 120492643032 end time Apr-12-10 05:09:34 PDT)
