New RAW 66. Need help getting started. Lots of questions!

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The Busted Nut

The Busted Nut

Member
Aug 2, 2011
96
0
6
San Diego, Califronia
I need to break this (RAW 66cc) in properly. I did not for my last one and i suffered. Here is a list of what i need help with:

1. I am using castor 927 oil. What ratio do i use to break in?

2. Weather conditions: ~%80 percent humidity, around 70 degrees out, and im at sea level.

3. What Spark plug/wires/boot should i switch to? (And how do i remove the spark plug wire)

4. Carb needle settings.

5. I REALLY need to know the break in procedure.

6. My other engine 4 stroked ALOT up hills. How do i stop my new one from doing this while maintaining good WOT?

7. What thread size are the bolts on the right plate (covers the gears)

8. What thread are the bolts that go into the piece that has the clutch arm in it (left side)

Should i replace as many nuts and bolts as i can with american ones? IS it worth it?
 
BarelyAWake

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
21
0
Maine
1: Typically 24:1 for break in and 32:1 thereafter w/any quality nonsynthetic (synthetics are fine, just different ratios).
2: At sea level & with the NT or "speed" carbs the optimum fuel/air setting would be the clip in second notch down on the needle - results should be confirmed by examining plug coloration.
3: NGK B6HS gapped to .030, solid core copper wire & NGK cap, all available at your local lawn mower/snowmobile/motorcycle shop.
4: Answered in #3
5: Ride it as much as you can.
6: Usually a sign of running too rich, see answer #2
7 & 8: Interestingly... I don't actually know offhand o_O

"american ones"? If you mean retapping to SAE, it's not worth the bother - if you mean quality metric fasteners, that's not a bad idea w/any load bearing ones... good luck trying to find them "made in the USA" lol, but quality is quality regardless of where it's made. Any good hardware store will have what yer looking for, just bring in some kit ones for sizing.
 
S

Skyliner70

New Member
May 25, 2011
50
0
0
Colorado
32:1 and no more is all you need for break in. Going too rich with a 20% blend castor oil may gum things up a little more than you want. Castor, a non-synthetic, is superior to synthetics in lubricity, high temperature operation, and high pressure protection but it does burn a little dirtier.
 
rustycase

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
5
0
Left coast
Both the clutch/primary drive side, and the clutch release/sprocket cover are M6 standard thread... 8.8 grade from the display at Ace hardware stores.
The clutch release uses two 30mm and 1 25mm. If you don't get allen heads you will need to spin the head against a file using a drill motor to get them to fit in the recess... and the cap screws I got are NOT 8.8's.
 
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