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Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
Welcome to the forum, sometimes a new engine can be hard to start. Let's start with the basics,
First hold down the tickler button on the carb to fill the carb bowl, about four to five seconds.
Then lift the choke lever and pedal up to 8 to 10 mph and release the clutch, keep pedaling till the engine fires then lower the choke slightly, it'll take some getting used to but it works for most.
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
5,353
2,575
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Newnan,Georgia
As for fuel regular gas will do, a 24/1 mix is plenty of oil. The 16/1 that is recommended just fouls plugs and will run bad if at all.
 

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New Member
Feb 8, 2015
25
0
0
castleton, ny
hey tanks will stic to the 20:1 fuel mix. a friend is getting some pure 83 oct gas no sugar!
good idea? anyone else with tips?!! im getting great exercise, but still no start. its cold up here in Albany ny might that be hurting me?
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
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San Antonio Texas
These engines run very well at 32:1 and up, but yeah, the 16:1 in the jnstructiknsnis way too much oil, evennat 20:1 is noticeably better and easier to start. These also tend to be a little hard to start at first but will become very easy to start after they have run a few times. I remember the first time I tried to start mine I had to run it down a hill a few times before it finally fired but now it starts on the first or second pull even on the coldest mornings. I pit a pull starter on mine mainly so i could start it without being on the bike and let it sit and warm up a few minutes before going up the road since most my trips are too short for a full warmup, and the engine behaves sooo much bettr once warmed up.

For now, try a 20:1 mix and you may need to pull your spark plug and clean it if its too oily then try to get a start. Mine was really tough to start all the time until I switched over to 32:1. I run 100:1 using 93 octane premium and opti2 oil that's designed to run that ratio, don't try to run anything else at a high ratio unless the oil is made for it tho.
Most people run 32:1 or 40:1 with a good synthetic 2 cycle oil. You can run a new engine safely at 32:1 also so if its still having trouble starting try the 32:1... especially when its cold because the oil rich mixes have more trouble separating the fuel from the oil when the engine is cold, making it a pain to start. Once the engine warms up the fuel separates from the oil almost instantly and it'll start real easy.
 

brown

Member
Feb 1, 2013
239
16
18
Bloomington IL
also am in alba ny ny is it too cold?
Could you just post general picture of the motor and bike from both sides. Sometimes we can see something that is giving you heartaches literally.

Since you have spark it could be as simple as having a air leak or a throttle cable problem. A common problem is sometime folks don't get the carburetor slid all the way onto the intake manifold and that will result in an air leak.

Also is you throttle cable operating correctly.

Might be a good idea to remove the carb while the throttle cable is still hooked to the carb. While looking into the carb then twist the throttle. Is the barrel inside the carb going up and down? Now check to make sure you are getting the carb fully inserted onto the intake manifold. Notice that the slots inside the carb have to be covered up to prevent it from leaking.
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
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San Antonio Texas
^^^ also good advice...an air leak can make your engine a mother to start too. The cold shouldn't even be an issue once it starts. I really don't recommend this but on a really cold morning a quick shot of starting fluid will get it to fire right up on the first pull, just don't use too much of it, about a half second shot at the air filter inlet is all it takes. Don't sit there and spray it in for a few seconds tho... just a quick shot and trust its in there. If you gotta pedal and bump start it then you want to spray it with the choke open then close the choke and go for a start. You can shoot in another shot after a few start attempts, but the same thing... just about a half second at the air filter inlet is all it takes... the people that blow their engines using this stuff is a direct result from spraying too much in.
I'll also add this.... don't use it if you don't feel comfortable about it, and never shoot it into a running engine.
Common places for air leaks are at the carb to inlet connection, at the intake to the cylinder, the base gasket, and the crank seals. The case halves can also leak but not as common. If you suspect a leak you can use some Indian head gasket shellac and lightly coat the intake or base gasket, and a Thin coat of this on your inlet before sliding the carb on can seal off a small leak. A really thin coat of the gasket shellac or copper gasket spray on the head gasket never hurts, and the copper gasket spray can be applied to any gasket used on these engines and can be used in place of gasket shellac everywhere except on the intake manifold its self, the shellac will fill tiny voids where no gasket is used much better than the copper spray stuff. Both type sealers only need to be used sparingly to work, using too much wont seal a big leak but will make a mess.
If you find a crank seal leaking the only real fix is to replace the leaking seal. These usually leak on a new engine when the assembler was in too much of a hurry putting the engine together, luckily these are cheap and fairly easy to replace. Just mark your mag rotor so it doesn't get put back on backward or the engine will definitely not start since it'll fire at the wrong time. There are lots of posts about which way these go on as well and could be another reason yours don't start if it was installed backward at the factory... stuff like that does happen with these engines....
hope some of this helps.
 

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New Member
Feb 8, 2015
25
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castleton, ny
its interesting about the carberator. they sent me an extension mount which I had to use. its about 4" longer and puts the carberator up under the seat. seems to work well though. had to remove rear pedal brake and am waiting for a hand brake. I will be able to go down a good hill then. its more speed. I think it will make the difference? THANKS for all the help!! keep it coming!
 

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New Member
Feb 8, 2015
25
0
0
castleton, ny
hey another question? where should the idle screw be adjusted to. it was at least 8-10 turns out. screwed it almost all in and backed off or out 4 turns? this I feel is normal. don't know what normal is ????
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
5,353
2,575
113
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Newnan,Georgia
There is no normal, meaning you just adjust the idle like you want by sound. I have no idea where either of mine are, I just get the rpm where I want it. Remember to twist the throttle slightly when turning the idle up, it makes turning the screw easier.
 

Trey

$50 Cruiser
Jan 17, 2013
1,432
5
0
Where cattle outnumber people 3 to 1.
hey another question? where should the idle screw be adjusted to. it was at least 8-10 turns out. screwed it almost all in and backed off or out 4 turns? this I feel is normal. don't know what normal is ????
I'm at 5500 feet, and it get's cold. I regularly adjust mine to ear. Nothing to it, if it sounds like a diesel, or a jet plane, you went to far- find the middle of the two.
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
0
San Antonio Texas
Yup... There's no wrong setting for idle speed, I prefer mine to idle as slowly as it can idle smoothly and not have to blip the throttle to keep it running but I'm guessing somewhere around 1000 rpm. You may want to set yours a bit higher or lower depending on preference, but I just do mine by ear so i can start it and let it sit there and warm up a bit before going on a full throttle run to my favorite taco stand in the morning...
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
I'm a little confused here. Did you get the engine to run? In post #10 you said, regarding the intake manifold, "It seems to work good".
You haven't said if the engine started or not but had a question about the idle speed screw.
Let us know if you got the engine running.

Tom
 

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New Member
Feb 8, 2015
25
0
0
castleton, ny
engine is still not running. waiting for hand brake then can go down hill.
was just going over things when I noticed idle screw. seems to be what feels best. thought maybe flooding it? should get brake in a few days. till then will
still listen to any advice its all great tanks!!! rags
 

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New Member
Feb 8, 2015
25
0
0
castleton, ny
hey tanks a lot for everyones help!!! up and running!!! anyone from Albany ny?
laws are not great up here. was wondering about the attitudes of our boys n blue?
im a 50 year old hippie too old to fight or get tased. opinions welcome!!!