BikeE2 Tandem Recumbent/GX35/ NuVinci Auto Trans Electrical System
A couple of folks have asked for expansion on my BikeE2/GX35/NuVinci 171 Developer’s Kit (auto trans) tandem recumbent’s electrical system.
My system provides 0-70 watts of 12+ volt power, with over 45 watts available 80% of the time. I have used it for over 200 hours with NO electrical problems. It is homebuilt out of off the shelf components, none designed explicitly for bike use. But I believe the system is both “balanced” for m bike use and very durable.
I’m limited to 5 pics/post (veteran posters have probably found a work around), so I’ll probably have 2 posts.
My first pic is of the bike, with the engine stripped for centrifugal clutch inspection. The Staton tri hybrid gear box (more later) is visible behind the rear wheel. Also, please note the black box with the red handle, behind the rear seat. This is my e component box.
Second pic is of the permanent magnet, brushless alternator I chose,
http://www.small-generator.com/Small-Alternator-YAF-54.htm. It is bolted down by 3 screws and the whole body (including integrated pulley) is of black nylon. I turn it thru the intermediate shaft of my tri hybrid gearbox, using this pulley,
https://catalog.nordex.com/ca301, part #FZXC4005, and this belt,,
https://catalog.nordex.com/ca301, part #FZX-A1-18. I obviously had to size my pulley and my belt length, but the pulley width, belt width, and belt material has worked out extremely well. I bought 2 belts, but after over 200 hours of use I have almost no belt wear or alternator “pulley” wear. Mounting the alternator took some thought, but the requirements are obvious. The pulley should be parallel with the power pulley (and remain that way in service), and a belt tensioner should be devised. Mine is not pretty, but it has worked well for me.
Here are my numbers;
Pulley pitch diameter ~2.9”
Alternator “pulley” pitch diameter ~1.75”
Honda GX35 “most used” r/m range – 5500-6000 (governed by auto trans). ~40% of the time. 1100-1200 r/m at the intermediate shaft. Alternator speed range ~ 1825-2000 r/m
Honda GX35 max r/m – 8000 ~40% of the time. 1600 r/m at the intermediate shaft. Alternator speed ~ 2650 r/m.
Honda GX 35 engine idle – 3000 r/m. ~20% of the time. Intermediate shaft not turning. Alternator also not turning.
Third pic is of my Radios Shack full wave bridge rectifier. No link here, as they are available from any RS. Just pay the few $ and get one with plenty of voltage, amperage, and (therefore) wattage capacity. Most of them do. Helpful hints. The ~ sign on 2 connections connotes sinusoidal ALTERNATING current and are your inputs. No wrong way to hook them to the alternator. You know what the + and – signs on the other 2 connections connote. They are outputs, and must match the signs on the controller inputs.
Fourth pic is of my Kintrex 100Watt Solar Controller,
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWQZNQ/ref. I just hooked up “loads” to my loads (my NuVinci microprocessor, shift actuator and front light), “battery” to my tiny lead acid motorcycle battery, and “solar panel” to the output of my full wave bridge rectifier. Amazon commenters have been able to heat it up with 80-100 watts of input, but mine is lower, and I have had no problems. This particular unit is also apparently out of stock, but a commenter touted this as a replacement,
http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Solar-Controller-Digital-Display/dp/B002GIWMJG/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk. Probably fine. IMO, I think these small solar controllers are ideal for MB charging systems. They are rugged, they turn down well since they must do that for solar systems, and they are designed to both send out conditioned power, and to charge a battery properly.
Fifth pic is of my 5 amp resettable circuit breaker. They are also available everywhere there are auto parts stores. I needed mine as a redundant backup to avoid frying my auto trans microprocessor. Since I thought my microprocessor might overdraw periodically, I wanted the auto reset. That has never happened, and I included this item just to remind you all that any delicate e loads need to be properly fused some kind of way.
More on next post.