Chain "skipping"

GoldenMotor.com

fortytwo

New Member
Aug 15, 2011
17
0
0
Bay area, CA
Hey guys,
I'm getting close to getting my first build complete but am having problems with the chain for the engine.

Basically what I'm seeing is that the chain "skips". I've been testing it by trying to ride the bike with the clutch depressed (trying to make sure it works fine as a bicycle before worrying about actually starting the engine up).

As I'm riding the chain will make a loud noise fairly often. From turning the bike over and spinning the wheels I can see it's because when the chain goes through the engine's sprocket, occasionally the hole in the chain isn't quite aligned with the tooth of the sprocket, causing it to jump a bit.

I tried removing the wheel sprocket and putting some duct tape around the wheel hub to fill the extra room and to eliminate any possible play to make sure the sprocket was exactly in the center and not uneven, but I'm still seeing the issue.

Any other thoughts on how I can debug this?

Thanks
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Chain tension is important. You'll want 1/2 to 3/4" slack in the chain. Alignment is also critical. Viewed from rear to front the chain must be aligned to the drive and driven sprockets as well as the tensioner wheel if used. Check your chain for any binding links that can cause a chain to not properly follow the curvature of the sprockets.

Some sprocket teeth are rough on their out ends. This can cause the chain to bind and jump as it goes over the sprocket. The rough edges can be filed or ground off with hand or power tools. A Dremel tool comes in handy for a lot of things. This is one of them.
Good luck.

Tom
 

fortytwo

New Member
Aug 15, 2011
17
0
0
Bay area, CA
Chain tension is important. You'll want 1/2 to 3/4" slack in the chain. Alignment is also critical. Viewed from rear to front the chain must be aligned to the drive and driven sprockets as well as the tensioner wheel if used. Check your chain for any binding links that can cause a chain to not properly follow the curvature of the sprockets.

Some sprocket teeth are rough on their out ends. This can cause the chain to bind and jump as it goes over the sprocket. The rough edges can be filed or ground off with hand or power tools. A Dremel tool comes in handy for a lot of things. This is one of them.
Good luck.

Tom
Thanks for the quick reply, 2door!

I think the slack in my chain is good. Maybe alignment is my problem though. I put a level along side the engine sprocket and the wheel sprocket and can see that they're not both along the same angle...I'll try and fix that (hopefully it's just that the bolts on the wheel sprocket aren't evenly tightened) and see how things look.

As far as the teeth, I'll have to take a look at that as well...
 
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fortytwo

New Member
Aug 15, 2011
17
0
0
Bay area, CA
I've made some adjustments and it seems much better...how much skipping should I expect? Absolutely none? It seems like it still skips a bit here and there but overall things seem much smoother when I've got the bike upside down and I spin the wheels.

I'll give it a ride as well, see how that feels.

EDIT: I think I spoke too soon; still seems to be skipping a lot. I'm tempted to start with my wheel sprocket being a bit uneven, although it's hard to tell by sight. I can see though that the chain moves across the wheel tensioner at an angle, guessing that's no good but it could be the tensioner that's off.
 
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2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Check your rear (driven) sprocket for concentricity with the hub. It MUST be centered with no lateral or horizontal wobble.
In addition, almost without exception the kit supplied tensioner wheel brackets must be 'twisted' slightly to allow the wheel to align with the chain path. Don't try to do this with the bracket mounted to the frame. You could bend the chainstay. Remove the bracket, clamp it in a vice and twist it with a large Crescent wrench, channel-locks or any appropriate tool then remount and check your progress. The tensioner wheel must ride true with the chain.

Use the Google Custom Search feature at the top of this page and type in 'tensioner'. You'll have plenty to read on the pros and cons of this device and see what others have done to eliminate the problems associated with it.
Good luck.
Tom
 

fortytwo

New Member
Aug 15, 2011
17
0
0
Bay area, CA
Thanks again for the reply, 2door.

I made some more adjustments and think it's looking good! I just took it out for a spin and it cruised along real nice :)

Now I'm sorting through solutions for my gas tank mount since my tube is too big. Came across your reply about the double-sided tape but not quite sure I'm getting the whole picture. Maybe I should reply to that thread... (http://motorbicycling.com/f34/gas-tank-brackets-30462.html)
 

vachon644

New Member
Nov 27, 2011
95
0
0
Quebec city, QC, Canada
Sometimes you can simply correct alignment by turning the rear sprocket over so it is closer or farer from the wheel; depending on the bike frames, one way or the other can help a great deal with alignment problems.
Also, don't give up this great hobby because of small details, in most cases, other people already had the problems you'll encounter (use Google search at the top of the page) along your motorized bicycle journey. ;)
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
5
0
Left coast
... it's not quite a 'small detail'... both times my chain came off the sprocket it locked up the back wheel. quick, fast, and in a hurry!

the rear sprocket can be trued, similar to a wheel. I did a post on using a small clip and a match as an indicator. it works well enough.

BEST solution is to get the clamshell hub adapter from the vendors here and forego all the grief caused by rag joints!

Good luck
rc