Hey guys, so I noticed that my bucking bar was missing which would explain why the clutch was not engaging or disengaging. So I got my new bucking bar with my steel ball in the mail today and I will try to fix this bad boy tomorrow. When I put in the new bar do I just shove the ball in the hole and then place the bucking bar in or is there something else I have to do?
Bucking Bar/Ball
- Thread starter Mjkx8
- Start date
Put a blob of good quality grease into the hollow transmission shaft before installing the ball. Also put another blob of grease into the shaft before installing the bucking bar.
Wipe off the excess grease before installing the sprocket cover.
Wipe off the excess grease before installing the sprocket cover.
So after I grease it and all, I just put the ball in the hole followed by the bucking bar? Don't need to tighten anything or something like that? Sorry, I have never done this before.
You should also put some grease on the cam inside the cover then all you need to tighten is the three cover screws. Get them all started then tighten in an alternating pattern. Two screws are the same length and one is longer. It goes in the top right hand hole as viewed from the left side of the engine. It's longer so you can use it to attach the front of the chain guard, if you use one. When putting the cover on, the clutch actuator arm should point toward the rear of the bike.
Here's a mod you can do if you have the tools. It will greatly reduce the amount of force needed to disengage the clutch: Before lubing the parts, smooth any rough edges on the end of the bucking bar (pin) and the contacting surface of the cam in the cover. I use a Dremel with a fine sanding disc then my bench buffer with buffing compond to put a mirror surface on the end of the bar and the cam.
Just curious. How did you loose the pin to begin with? Also, did the replacement pin (bucking bar) come from the vendor you got the engine from? The reason I ask is that the pin length can be critical to proper clutch action and adjustment. Just a few thousands too long or short can make a world of difference.
Good luck.
Tom
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...and don't forget... if you do the Alf clutch cable mod, you can 86 the stand for the stock cable location, coming up off the top of the drive shaft, and replace it with a grease zerk. then it's ez to put in a bit of grease when it begins to make a bit of noise on down the road.
lol I too lost my original bucking bar that came with the basket-case mab when I first bought it... made one from a grade 8 5/16 bolt and it did not quite fit as good as I would have liked... sloppy in the hole through the shaft... and 8mm is only a couple thousandths fatter, which I'm running now.
I probably will cut one from a drill bit next time around. I'll try 21/64ths or 11/32nds. I think the ball is a standard .312 from any hardware store, IIRC.
Best
rc
lol I too lost my original bucking bar that came with the basket-case mab when I first bought it... made one from a grade 8 5/16 bolt and it did not quite fit as good as I would have liked... sloppy in the hole through the shaft... and 8mm is only a couple thousandths fatter, which I'm running now.
I probably will cut one from a drill bit next time around. I'll try 21/64ths or 11/32nds. I think the ball is a standard .312 from any hardware store, IIRC.
Best
rc
