Ps. The mounts are different with arrows reed valve, you would have to do some fabricating to make it work it looks like.
walbro carb
- Thread starter Firestorm102389
- Start date
I have had a good result from the 15mm barrel style walbro replica that comes on 49cc piston port 2 stroke motors.
They are usually only about $15.
I made my own manifold, and installed a pulse tube to one of the transfer ports.
A little bit of messing around but worth it.
They are usually only about $15.
I made my own manifold, and installed a pulse tube to one of the transfer ports.
A little bit of messing around but worth it.
Attachments
Alright everyone, I'm sorry and I hate to say it, but the funds feel threw. I'm extremely disappointed. I'm trying to sell, a few things to make up the money but suo far it's not looking good 
We'll make it happen, we'll find a way.. Let's build the bike first, break it in and then worry about performance parts, besides, we'll probably develop new ideas as we go along and we can figure something really neat out. Let me know when you're ready to build and we'll arrange it, I can't wait!Alright everyone, I'm sorry and I hate to say it, but the funds feel threw. I'm extremely disappointed. I'm trying to sell, a few things to make up the money but suo far it's not looking good
I've been running my 1973 Schwinn Continental with weedeater motors (this will be the seventh year motorized). A 25cc Homelite and a 28cc McCulloch, both with Walbro carbs. I like those little carbs - one of them I turned upside-down from factory position so I had better access to the choke lever and high/low adjustment screws.
They are sensitive to mixture adjustment. Especially instead of just spinning a cutterhead or leaf blower impeller, now they must haul my ample gut around town in all different weather conditions.
I finally got the bright idea to fasten (weld, glue) a tab to the high-speed screw (farthest from motor). My carbs have all been "old style" with plain slotted adjustment screws. Now I can easily tune while I am riding. It makes a huge difference with these little motors. I get max power and know that I am never running too lean.
They are sensitive to mixture adjustment. Especially instead of just spinning a cutterhead or leaf blower impeller, now they must haul my ample gut around town in all different weather conditions.
I finally got the bright idea to fasten (weld, glue) a tab to the high-speed screw (farthest from motor). My carbs have all been "old style" with plain slotted adjustment screws. Now I can easily tune while I am riding. It makes a huge difference with these little motors. I get max power and know that I am never running too lean.
I've been meaning to cut down an old screwdriver, and fit a bit of soft plastic tube to it, so that it will squeeze on, and also pull of again.
I agree 'tuneable on the fly' is the go.
I agree 'tuneable on the fly' is the go.
That's what I used for a while. It worked but the tube has to be tight. I adjust mine by reaching back without looking and feeling for it (after a while your hand knows right where to go). But it got knocked off a few times before I made it permanent. On one I brazed a tab into the screw slot, on another I used a piece of metal tube from a broken radio antenna to hold a tab in the slot then filled it with JB weld.
In this pic:
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46105&d=1332142234
you can kinda see the JB-welded adjustment tab. I might have posted better close-ups somewhere.
Here's my other carb with a brass tab brazed or soldered in:
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44421&d=1327918827
I think I just used lead/tin electrical solder. Make sure metal is clean first.
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46105&d=1332142234
you can kinda see the JB-welded adjustment tab. I might have posted better close-ups somewhere.
Here's my other carb with a brass tab brazed or soldered in:
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44421&d=1327918827
I think I just used lead/tin electrical solder. Make sure metal is clean first.
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Excellent to know, I'll be building the project but it's going to take longer than expected, trying to save some money right now.
Soon. I just ordered the stage 3. I won't have much to compare it to since I am going big right out of the box.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=556545#post556545
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=556545#post556545
First ideas... This is a very poorly engineered kit. It will need a LOT of work to work. The JNM adaptor is nowhere near the size of the carb or the intake, I should hope this is just so the end user can port it to match. Intake hole is perpendicular to the bolt's and the HT intake port is angled, Very disappointing. There is a place to put a throttle cable, but no way of attaching it to the shaft. If I could attach a cable, It would in no way reach full throttle. This will take some tinkering to make right.
Wow... what a mess... I'm glad I decided on a different carb setup for mine... It sounds like you might need to make a linkage so it'll reach full throttle as well as add in a return spring. I got a few Tillotson carbs over here and they're the same way... gotta fab up all kinds of brackets, linkages,etc before they would work.
I'll tinker with my 19mm Tilly later on but right now I'm doing a few last finishing touches before mine will be rideable again so it'll be after I get the bike back on the road before I mess with the Tilly.
I'll tinker with my 19mm Tilly later on but right now I'm doing a few last finishing touches before mine will be rideable again so it'll be after I get the bike back on the road before I mess with the Tilly.
