Alright, had to check. Honestly, I didn't realize all 12 pages were trying to get just your bike going! I'm jumping on board. 
Oil mixture
- Thread starter Eric2.0
- Start date
I hope it will help others that have a dead engine somewhat. That they aren't alone in the GOD DANG PIECE OF !@#!! club.Alright, had to check. Honestly, I didn't realize all 12 pages were trying to get just your bike going! I'm jumping on board.
Hard to give up on em though..I say I will, but then I find myself back out there trying something new...I feel I am getting really close. Actually got a semi start today.
Is a thread that gives hope
The brass tube that comes out of the top of the carb ( this tube goes in the middle of the doughnut shaped float ) contains the jet.
Stick a needle through the hole to make sure it isn't clogged.
I live in a dusty place the spastic manufacture leaves lots of places for dirt to get into the float chamber here.
Use rtv to glue the carb body to the round intake manifold.
Some places sell a special flat rubber washer to help seal this trouble spot.
I had a carb that was so %#$ up that the only way to fix it was to buy a new one from thats dax.
Solved all my problems, but this setup ran just not very good.
Check the seals on the magneto side of the engine and the clutch side .
Is there signs of oily gassy leakage in the magneto cover and housing same for the clutch where the crank exits the case.
Finally check the engine head bolts for tightness.
Be careful when tightening the crappy bolts be gentle.
Stick a needle through the hole to make sure it isn't clogged.
I live in a dusty place the spastic manufacture leaves lots of places for dirt to get into the float chamber here.
Use rtv to glue the carb body to the round intake manifold.
Some places sell a special flat rubber washer to help seal this trouble spot.
I had a carb that was so %#$ up that the only way to fix it was to buy a new one from thats dax.
Solved all my problems, but this setup ran just not very good.
Check the seals on the magneto side of the engine and the clutch side .
Is there signs of oily gassy leakage in the magneto cover and housing same for the clutch where the crank exits the case.
Finally check the engine head bolts for tightness.
Be careful when tightening the crappy bolts be gentle.
Have your credit card ready and make checks payable to 2Door @ help's not free.comYou better hurry up and get that thing running because free troubleshooting help and advice is limited to only 15 pages, after that you have to pay.
That was funny, rohmell. I wonder if Paul has ever thought of it.
Tom
It would help to offset some the costs of running this site, and it would put a fire under the butt of people to get their MBs running quickly to avoid the fees.Have your credit card ready and make checks payable to 2Door @ help's not free.com
That was funny, rohmell. I wonder if Paul has ever thought of it.
Tom
Still no luck and believe me I am trying.
The only thing left is that MAG coil and CDI. I need to test all of the circuits to see what it's putting out. I have a spark, but it doesn't seem "all that great" and kinda sporadic and "jumpy"
Just not sure about how to test the wires..I just hook up the meter leads to the ends of each wire?
Measure between wires like Blue resistance to black?
The only thing left is that MAG coil and CDI. I need to test all of the circuits to see what it's putting out. I have a spark, but it doesn't seem "all that great" and kinda sporadic and "jumpy"
Just not sure about how to test the wires..I just hook up the meter leads to the ends of each wire?
Measure between wires like Blue resistance to black?
Mine was 2.7 ohms white to ground and 240 ohms blue to ground on the magneto.
I never tested anything on the CDI.
Man, that thing is the voodoo motor from ****.
I never tested anything on the CDI.
Man, that thing is the voodoo motor from ****.
Eric2.0 is gonna be riding this bike before long.........keep on plugging at it friend.....you'll know so much about these engines by the time you're done, there wont be an HT engine problem out there that will have the courage to tangle with you..!
Peace
Peace
That's what I told dad and we try to keep this project "experimental" and when it finally fires up, we'll feel a lot better about doing another one, because we'll know what to expect and where to make improvements the first time around.
I'm going to test the MAG tomorrow with an ohm meter. I'm actually HOPING that the MAG is junk so I don't have to wonder anymore.
The carb is on right, sealed to the manifold, wires are right, RTV sealed the intake and exhaust manifolds, checked head tourque, fixed magneto woodruff key, made new gasket for the float bowl(twice as good as original) Checked jet tightness, not plugged, using NGK BH6S plug..... and it has lots of compression.
The only thing left to check is the MAG and CDI output....I've had this motor inside and out.
Thanks...I am hoping that the MAG or CDI are junk....Then it will be an easy time to just replace it rather than wondering what else it could be.
I mean it gets tons of gas...it drips out the pipe after not firing up...I get a tiny sputter, but the pipe and head do get warm.,
Has to be a weak spark.
I stole this from another thread, but check your spark plug connector:
I had low or no spark problems with starting and such issues.
I used a multimeter and tested the electrical system and continuity.
I found a short in the spark plug connector where it plugs on the spark plug.
There was a short.
If you look closely on the spark plug connector there is a copper screw not the side with the screw, but it came loose. unscrew it with a flat tip screw driver, and there is a small spring I noticed black carbon burns film where the spring touches. I cleaned it with a small screw driver scraped it clean, then I stretched the spring and used lock tite on the copper screw put it back together and tested, full continuity. For those that don’t know continuity means strong connection or full connection.
I also used a Black TV cable it has a thick copper wire in the center, but if you use it make sure you strand about an inch on the copper wire, bend the copper wire with needle nose pliers in a small triangle shape where the screw screws in the center of the triangle in the center of the cable wire.
So the screw touches the copper wire and makes a strong connection.
I had low or no spark problems with starting and such issues.
I used a multimeter and tested the electrical system and continuity.
I found a short in the spark plug connector where it plugs on the spark plug.
There was a short.
If you look closely on the spark plug connector there is a copper screw not the side with the screw, but it came loose. unscrew it with a flat tip screw driver, and there is a small spring I noticed black carbon burns film where the spring touches. I cleaned it with a small screw driver scraped it clean, then I stretched the spring and used lock tite on the copper screw put it back together and tested, full continuity. For those that don’t know continuity means strong connection or full connection.
I also used a Black TV cable it has a thick copper wire in the center, but if you use it make sure you strand about an inch on the copper wire, bend the copper wire with needle nose pliers in a small triangle shape where the screw screws in the center of the triangle in the center of the cable wire.
So the screw touches the copper wire and makes a strong connection.
