First build so far...

GoldenMotor.com
Sep 1, 2010
209
0
16
Cincinnati,Ohio
Here are some pics I hope to send to share with everyone . I have a Micargi GTS Cougar with a SD Stinger 80cc engine. I upgraded the rear srocket with a aluminium one from Manic Mechanic, it's a little cumbersome to manage to get behind the 68 spoke wheel to tighen, but i fiqured a way to get it done. I also wonder if the chain will rub? looks awfull close. Well i plan to keep most of it stock, but wonder if there is some trick to keep the 2.125 whitewall rear tire, ( pretty common toswitch to 26"x 2.195 Kenda types, Which Justin from Piratescycles tells me,,, great guy he helped me with some questions i had when i ordered the sprocket. Just a few more items like Chrome muffler & chain guard. Hope these pics will attach... Over & out Dirtyoldcrusier.
 

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
2,634
69
48
Ma USA
Sharp looking ride Ya got going there.. I use a 2.10 tire but I have a disc hub mount sprocket, there are definitely guys here doing it Im sure they will pipe in. soon enough..wee.

Cheers
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
...it's a little cumbersome to manage to get behind the 68 spoke wheel to tighen, but i fiqured a way to get it done. I also wonder if the chain will rub? looks awfull close.
Nice looking bike Dirty.
Nice pics too except none of the chain path down the chain ;-}

68 spoke wheel, ouch. I can see why you needed the hub mounted sprocket and why it was hard.

One thing that jumps out at me is that god awful hunk of metal drive chain tensioner you bolted on.
You can do a forum search for 'no tensioner' but in short pull that hunk of metal off and adjust your drive chain to fit without a tensioner with total disregard for the pedal side.

Your standard cruiser frame rear wheel slots and frame will allow you to do this with ease.

With that hub mount sprocket if need be you can tweak your wheel a tad to the right for chain/wheel clearance and be OK but yes, on a fat tire expect it to be close.

Finally, mess with your pedal side chain.

Depending on which way you had to move the wheel to match the drive chain, you may be able to not mess with the pedal chain at all, and it being a little loose won't hurt anything, you seldom use it, but if it's too short a 1/2 link will fix you up on that chain, and if the chain just has way too much slack just use a nice neat little pedal side tensioner like this.



See what I mean?

Just do your chain mismatch work with a tensioner on the meaningless side and not the drive side with a big ugly hunk of metal on an otherwise beautiful bike.

The only other thing is the wiring as far as look goes, look in this forums Trade section for a clean alternative to stock wiring.
 
Sep 1, 2010
209
0
16
Cincinnati,Ohio
xct2 Thanks KC,, I'll try those options & let you know what works,, Here are a excess of the rear view wheel & chain. All i did so far was remove about 10 links in the motor chain , but none on the pedal side. The wheel looks straight but the chain rubs slightly. I see a lot of cruiser's with stock tires & fenders, that is my goal on this build. Thanks again for everyone's help & input. I haven't tinkered with my bikes for a few years, but this bike motor kit excites me alot. May all have a Great Labor Day weekend,,, out for now Dirtyoldcrusier
 

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KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
Excellent pics cruiser! That helps so much.
Can you move that hub sprocket out any more?
Opposed to trying change the mount you could pull the sprocket and stick washers between the sprocket and mount where the bolts go through.

Or, you could just cock your wheel to the right a touch.
If you get chain jump issues then you'll have to ditch that option, but it is the easiest to try first.
It looks like good chain (410HD or 415?)
Nice looking bike too by the way, it should be a fun ride ;-}