Bike is idling very high when I engage the clutch?

You prolly have an air leak. Check your carb where it connects to the manifold and the gasket at the jug. I use Permatex Gasket maker high heat silicone on my gaskets with good luck. There is another product said to be more fuel resistant called Seal All.

To each their own and that's a fact lol - but personally... I'm not the biggest fan of instagasket goops, they're a bit messy, it can make it difficult to disassemble and really outa not be necessary w/a quality gasket material & flush faces... Seal All is actually a glue so that could get "sticky"

While I'll not defend the cheap gaskets included w/the kit heh, odds are the intake manifold and/or the head nuts aren't properly torqued down - I'd simply look for black oily gunk around the cylinder head & check the intake fer leaks.

While the head gasket is fine & it's often just not torqued properly, the intake gasket is actually pretty cheesy, but it's easy 'nuff to get some quality gasket material and trace out a new one


*shrug* Still, I realize I've a minority view - many use the goops and are quite happy with the results... tho I'd say to never use any sealant on the head gasket - that should be flush or fixed.

I have used Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket Item # 81160 on exhaust headers with no gasket and on the donuts as well. This was in the automotive shops I have worked in for the past 15 years. While it is said by many a tech that it can mess up an O2 sensor . I learned and did this with older model engines years ago. Also on hotrods where that pesky donut seamed to fail with great success.

http://www.permatex.com/documents/GasketMakerSelector.pdf

My new favorite is Permatex® Ultra Copper® High- Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker Item # 81878 Exhaust manifolds/ headers, valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, thermostat housing, water pumps. Temperature Range: -75°F to 700°F intermittent

None of these are hard to clean up. [don't know about the seal all ]

My China motor has no gasket on the intake and has had no air leaks ever. No the gas did not eat it either. The surfaces were perfectly flush is why. I have a copper gasket on the exhaust. A copper or Aluminum gasket on the exhaust will work the best. Yes I delicately butter my exhaust gasket in this stuff.

You make a good point B.W. a simple gasket is all a guy needs to use. My zeal and luck with these products are not necessary to recommend.

All a guy needs is clean surfaces and decent gasket material. If the surfaces are clean and flush conditions are perfect.

I never have tried the said Seal All. I hear its a real mess to clean up. My gasket maker is not.


My personal experience with what I have used has worked for me. I shall avoid the controversy and stop recommending any of this stuff. There is just too much differences in opinion.

Naw man - defo recommend what you've found to work well in your experience, I was simply mentioning my personal preferences is all, based on years of cleaning up other people's failed repair attempts and forced to spend far too many hours scraping off gobs of mysterious gunk lol

I suspect your applications bear little resemblance to what caused this personal "pet peeve" o'mine

It's true that given the sloppy castings these engines are known for and the relative inexperience of some, it may be too much to ask to reface and ensure flush, proper surfaces - a judicious application of the proper sealant may be just the ticket to get 'em on the road quickly and easily...

Jus' don't mention "J-B Weld"

I would defiantly not recommend J-B weld Remember that Indian Head brand shellac that stuff was terrible!

Actually called it Aviation snot in a A/C shop I worked in. When we rebuilt the A/C hoses it was our secret trick sliding and helping seal the barbs together before we crimped them. We told the customers they had about 72 hours to a weak to re clock the hose as needed and get it back on the car. After that it was impossible to move to re clock.

There is some really rough stuff out there that is not necessary and a true night mare to clean up. The stuff I use on the China is very forgiving. I can clean it up with my finger nails. I have seen this stuff after years on an exhaust header with no gasket hold up good. But the headers were not warped that was why.


Still simply put good gasket paper material is all a guy needs on the intake.

im not sure if this is going to help at all because it seems like everyone is talking about gaskets and air leaks but try to turn the idle screw to the left a little. then just rev up the motor and let it idle again. this will turnthe idle down a little. if its still to high try it again. if it goes to low the turn it in a little. just adjust it until it right.

you might also check your idler screw. its the one that is on your carb. probably to the left when you are looking down from the seat of your bike, and there is a screw with a spring on it. all the vibration might have messed with it. screw it in tight and idle high, screw it out, idle low.

adamg4119 is along the same lines i am.

Oh man haha, i didnt even read that post

enrichen your mixture