I am building an electric recumbent trike based on a Mongoose CX 24V 450 dirt bike. The stock dirt bike has a 15mph capability and about an hour range if you go easy on the throttle. I am going to leave the rear end stock and work in a trike front end that you can also pedal. I am thinking that in Texas this type of configuration will allow me to stay below the radar of the local police. Electric seems to sneak by easier.
Electric Recumbent Trike
- Thread starter gstrope
- Start date
Hmm... dunno the price of that bike & while overall I think it's an excellent idea, unless ya have one already or can get one cheap - you may wish to consider using the rear stays off of any suspended bicycle as it seems the above is this inexpensive system: iZip Electro Drive Bicycle Conversion Kit, Model# I-ZIP-KIT1 | Electric Bicycles | Northern Tool + Equipment - as you're talkin' about scrapping the rest of the bike... it may work out better to just get the drive itself, partic as the Mongoose has only a 20" wheel *shrug*
I unno, just some thoughts - it's still a good idea, a great one if ya already have the Mongoose
I unno, just some thoughts - it's still a good idea, a great one if ya already have the Mongoose
If your not aware there is a great deal of info on Atomic Zombi regarding DIY recumbents, might help you with your design/constructions...either way all the best.
KiM
KiM
Yeah I found one on Craigslist fo $60. All it needs is new batteries - another $60. It seemed like quite a bargain seeing as you can't touch most electric kits for less than around $300. I think the 20" wheel will work ok, I just finished one with a 16" back wheel and it rides fine on pavement.Hmm... dunno the price of that bike & while overall I think it's an excellent idea, unless ya have one already or can get one cheap - you may wish to consider using the rear stays off of any suspended bicycle as it seems the above is this inexpensive system: iZip Electro Drive Bicycle Conversion Kit, Model# I-ZIP-KIT1 | Electric Bicycles | Northern Tool + Equipment - as you're talkin' about scrapping the rest of the bike... it may work out better to just get the drive itself, partic as the Mongoose has only a 20" wheel *shrug*
I unno, just some thoughts - it's still a good idea, a great one if ya already have the Mongoose
I did a bit of design and mock up work today. I am still trying to decide where to put the battery box. I have decided on using 2 bottom brackets and crank sets for my front end kingpins. I am trying to get a rough idea of what it will look like.
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You want to try keeping the battery low down, fellas on Endless Sphere forum with e-trikes usually put the battery packs rear and to the side of the seat level with the 'backbone' of the trikes frame. Some also chose to pop them on the front, like Recumpence has done with his yellow terror stretched and widened KMX beast
KiM
KiM
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Lookin' good man, KiM's defo right about keepin' it low - have ya cracked open that battery case to see what's inside? It's an odd shape ta hafta deal with... Mebbe get a second to have duals (and roughly twice the range) w/one on each side like saddlebags? *shrug* Dunno, just some thoughts lol
Recumpence's 'Yellow Terror' is an awesome example - my one and only concern is the taddy's well-known habit of "nosing over" during hard braking, not a huge deal & one easily compensated for w/a long wheelbase and/or a "stunt caster/skid plate" on the pedal boom.
Quick question tho - whadda plannin' for front wheelbase width? The two bottom brackets is a good solution... I unno if ya wanna do this, but I got a set of the Atomic Zombie plans to "cheat" regarding stuff like salvaging as many existing bike parts as possible, as well as headache inducing stuff like Ackerman compensation, steering geometry, general wheelbase & alignment, etc. - while I've strayed far & away from the plans themselves, it's still the best $16 I've ever spent on a bike project lol
Recumpence's 'Yellow Terror' is an awesome example - my one and only concern is the taddy's well-known habit of "nosing over" during hard braking, not a huge deal & one easily compensated for w/a long wheelbase and/or a "stunt caster/skid plate" on the pedal boom.
Quick question tho - whadda plannin' for front wheelbase width? The two bottom brackets is a good solution... I unno if ya wanna do this, but I got a set of the Atomic Zombie plans to "cheat" regarding stuff like salvaging as many existing bike parts as possible, as well as headache inducing stuff like Ackerman compensation, steering geometry, general wheelbase & alignment, etc. - while I've strayed far & away from the plans themselves, it's still the best $16 I've ever spent on a bike project lol
I am planning on a 32" wheelbase, that seems to work for a lot of other successful trikes. I am looking into getting those plans. They have a special going right now too.
I have made my decision on the battery mount. It will go under the seat (see picture). I positioned it off center to the left to give room for the chain from the pedals in front. The battery is mounted lower than the axles for better handling. I am thinking of widening the front wheelbase to 34" for more stability.
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As I mentioned before I am using bottom brackets for my kingpins. I am going to use one of the crank arms for direct steering arm. I cut off part of the other crank and then split it right down the middle to make a good mating surface for the axle plates. I am going to groove the axle plates and bend them for the correct steering geometry. Check out the pictures.
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I have been building now for awhile and I have gotten behind posting the progress. I bought the Atomic Zombie Warrior plans and have gotten some good ideas from that. I copied their bottom bracket mount, using 20mm hubs and ideas for chain management.
These pictures show the trike without the battery box and seat so you can see details of the frame. I bought some Shimano 20mm hubs and had some wheels built. Between the hubs, rims and having wheels built it came to about $300. More than I expected but the wheels do roll very nicely.
These pictures show the trike without the battery box and seat so you can see details of the frame. I bought some Shimano 20mm hubs and had some wheels built. Between the hubs, rims and having wheels built it came to about $300. More than I expected but the wheels do roll very nicely.
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It's really lookin' great man 
Ima lil envious actually - apparently you managed to find bolts w/a 20mm shaft OD to use as your front axles? I s'pose ya prolly already thought of this but tho runnin' the bolts inwards w/the nut welded to the spindle plate makes for a really clean lookin' setup - there's a danger of the left front loosening, have you considered "castellating" the nut (cutting slots) & drilling the bolt to accept a cotter pin? ...mebbe ya already did heh, can't really see *shrug*
Still, it's lookin' really good
Ima lil envious actually - apparently you managed to find bolts w/a 20mm shaft OD to use as your front axles? I s'pose ya prolly already thought of this but tho runnin' the bolts inwards w/the nut welded to the spindle plate makes for a really clean lookin' setup - there's a danger of the left front loosening, have you considered "castellating" the nut (cutting slots) & drilling the bolt to accept a cotter pin? ...mebbe ya already did heh, can't really see *shrug*
Still, it's lookin' really good
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I used 5/8" bolts and built them up using the method in the Warrior plans. I plan on using stop nuts when I am through. I am not totally happy with that setup because they came up a little short. 20mm bolts are hard to find, I am thinking of getting 3/4" bolts. that is almost the same as 20mm (actually 19.05) . Have you ever thought of that?It's really lookin' great man
Ima lil envious actually - apparently you managed to find bolts w/a 20mm shaft OD to use as your front axles? I s'pose ya prolly already thought of this but tho runnin' the bolts inwards w/the nut welded to the spindle plate makes for a really clean lookin' setup - there's a danger of the left front loosening, have you considered "castellating" the nut (cutting slots) & drilling the bolt to accept a cotter pin? ...mebbe ya already did heh, can't really see *shrug*
Still, it's lookin' really good
A bit yea, but the 3/4" bolts available where I work are a (very) coarse thread and seem a lil sloppier fit that even jus' one millimeter off... I was thinkin' of turning down some stainless rod stock to make my own axles & I might still do that - but I jus' found these fer only $16ea, so Im gonna order a set to experiment with;
Marzocchi QR20 Bolt-on 20mm Thru-Axle Non-QR style, All years/models @ eBikeStop.com
I dunno if they'll be strong enough even welded for single-side support or long enough for my app, but given the sweet endcaps, the good fit & for the price - I figure it can't hurt to check 'em out
Marzocchi QR20 Bolt-on 20mm Thru-Axle Non-QR style, All years/models @ eBikeStop.com
I dunno if they'll be strong enough even welded for single-side support or long enough for my app, but given the sweet endcaps, the good fit & for the price - I figure it can't hurt to check 'em out
You can buy "castellated" nuts! They're called "castle"nuts.Kip.It's really lookin' great man
Ima lil envious actually - apparently you managed to find bolts w/a 20mm shaft OD to use as your front axles? I s'pose ya prolly already thought of this but tho runnin' the bolts inwards w/the nut welded to the spindle plate makes for a really clean lookin' setup - there's a danger of the left front loosening, have you considered "castellating" the nut (cutting slots) & drilling the bolt to accept a cotter pin? ...mebbe ya already did heh, can't really see *shrug*
Still, it's lookin' really good
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