grouchyolfart, big brown is well named. We have to pay a "border broker" fee based on what the item is worth. I ask if they can send it by mail. No fees and just about as fast.
Steve.
Steve.
currie motors
- Thread starter jeff96
- Start date
I looked at a Currie kit for $285. Unfortunately for me, 24V 10aH just isn't going to be worthwhile in the rural area that I live. So, add another $200 for batteries, I was looking at $37 for the 36V charger, though I can probably get that down plus $100 in shipping and brokerage.
Was thinking of that too. I think I'll just pick at it and keep an eye out for deals. I replied to an ad for a wrecked electric scooter last night. The owner doesn't seem to know anything about what's under the plastic, so I'll probably have to go have a look see.
In the meantime, I'm fixing up and painting the donor bike I found on the side of the road. I"ll try to get the main components together for around $200 over the summer. Once I get that far, I'll go ahead and order batteries
Take the scooter no matter what it has. you can use the rear wheel for a friction drive like the one in my avatar even if you have to upgrade the motor. It will most likely be a 24v but heck it might still take 36v depending on how good the controller is. You can pick up a 36v on ebay sometimes cheap and be ready to upgrade. i just found out how great my drive is today. rode it through four inches of standing water and it didn't miss a beat. Much cheaper than any other build.
I think its a currie motor used on this trailer? I think Its a bit pricey at £499 for such a flimsy looking trailer.
electro drive .:07974 723996:.
I'll stick with trying to build my own I think.
Tom
electro drive .:07974 723996:.
I'll stick with trying to build my own I think.
Tom
That motor arrangement on the trailer looks a lot like the schwinn scooter motor and mount I build with. I used it on my one wheel pusher it attaches directly to the axle. Makes it really easy to make.
GOF why not go with a three wheel trailer. Front wheel is the pusher mounted directly to the bike's axle on both sides. Just an extension of the bike really. Kind of like I used to do, then behind it a two wheel trailer to carry things. You could do a harp behind the bike, then attach the whole thing to the harp with a pin or big butted bolt. Kind of a tricycle trailer. I never thought of that but I bet it would be a heck of a thing to see. It would also be easy to get out of the shop, you could just roll it out on its own. then bolt it up.
GOF why not go with a three wheel trailer. Front wheel is the pusher mounted directly to the bike's axle on both sides. Just an extension of the bike really. Kind of like I used to do, then behind it a two wheel trailer to carry things. You could do a harp behind the bike, then attach the whole thing to the harp with a pin or big butted bolt. Kind of a tricycle trailer. I never thought of that but I bet it would be a heck of a thing to see. It would also be easy to get out of the shop, you could just roll it out on its own. then bolt it up.
Pardon me if this question has an obvious answer, but would a motor rated at 48V produce similar speed and torque at 36V as a motor rated at 24 to 36V? Just thinking if I do buy a new motor that I might get something that can handle a battery upgrade at a future date. You know; when lifepo4 batteries come on sale at dollarama
NO it wouldn't. You can ALWAYS over volt , not "overamp" - which is happening when using 48v motor with 36 V pack. For the gazilionth time : Volt = speed , Amps = acceleration (torque).
So buy 36 V motor - you can add more Volts later (faster , better range).
I know for sure you can run a 24v motor on a 12v battery but you cut your speed in half at least. So don't bother like man said go the other way. Buy your 36v motor and run it at 48 down the road.
I'm not all sure what it does to the motor but I have run 48v on a 24v currie motor. All I can tell you is it ran like the wind until the controller burned up. I had a 36v controller that wouldn't handle the over volt. The motor was running along just fine, how long it would have lasted is anyone's guess.
I'm not all sure what it does to the motor but I have run 48v on a 24v currie motor. All I can tell you is it ran like the wind until the controller burned up. I had a 36v controller that wouldn't handle the over volt. The motor was running along just fine, how long it would have lasted is anyone's guess.
Makes sense. The 48V controller will work ok with 36V assuming it can handle the watts, right?
you can run about anything you want but your performance will be determined by the controller you buy. A 36v controller with a capacity for 500watts or more will be pretty adequate... it would also be safe.
Now me first thing i would do it go 48v 1000 watt controller. But then that is a bit risky since it might damage your motor and then I would be responsible. I would go safe at first. Then later if you want you can try the larger controller. TNC has a really nice 36volt 800 watt controller I used it for my build till I over powered it and burned it up.
Now me first thing i would do it go 48v 1000 watt controller. But then that is a bit risky since it might damage your motor and then I would be responsible. I would go safe at first. Then later if you want you can try the larger controller. TNC has a really nice 36volt 800 watt controller I used it for my build till I over powered it and burned it up.
Hey zabac70, this is how bad some of u....I am with ebikes. So I go out to get my daughter's bike thinking we can ride up to her aikido lessons. Her's is a Kulana with a front hub 350 watt motor. I hook up the battery and as soon as I turn the key switch on, the bike goes backwards and there's sparks and smoke. 
I get to flipping the wires and hook everything up. Now nothing happens. I done burned out the controller.
Thing is, I've never had this kind of problems with my Currie rigs. I'll get the hang of these hub rigs yet.
Ah, luckily I have a spare controller and will rewire everything tomorrow.
I get to flipping the wires and hook everything up. Now nothing happens. I done burned out the controller.
Thing is, I've never had this kind of problems with my Currie rigs. I'll get the hang of these hub rigs yet. Ah, luckily I have a spare controller and will rewire everything tomorrow.
Sorry
There were instructions weren't they (about controller , I mean)? Controller can be fixed (for example , by TV repair guy) and your "learning curve" has just gone waaay up I've messed up few things in my life too (and that was the stuff I know about), if that makes you feel better. As the bumper sticker says : S..t happens !Instructions??? Heck no. Bought the kit used.
Good thing for me I had already worked with a Currie system so I had the basic knowledge for assembly. Only thing different is that these hub motors can run backwards if not wired correctly and draw big amps, initially. I've burned out my share of 40 amp fuses when I used the wrong wiring harness on several occasions. Senior moments. <sigh>The old controller had a key switch. With my spare controller, I'm going to bypass the switch and run a simple on/off switch inline on the hot lead from the battery. Much like my Curry systems. Much simpler and less to go wrong. Good thing TNC has specs and wiring diagrams for these units.
I never thought of having the controller repaired. I'll go down to our local appliance repair shop and ask. Thanks for that tip.
Hey, maybe I can get him to "tweak" it up to 36 volts so long as the cost is less than a new controller. I can only ask.
Watch out on the amp rating of the on/off switch (lamp switch isn't for the job, it could melt).
As for the repairs of the controller, I just mentioned one option out of top of my mind. Anyone who deals with electronics can repair it (unless leads on the circuit board had it), simply by replacing burnt components by the same/similar ones or upgrading it for right voltage (36 V). If it is just replacing components it shouldn't be expensive, but , bare in mind, more elaborate work could be more expensive than controller (you'll just have to check it out). Hope that "malfunction" can be solved.
As for the repairs of the controller, I just mentioned one option out of top of my mind. Anyone who deals with electronics can repair it (unless leads on the circuit board had it), simply by replacing burnt components by the same/similar ones or upgrading it for right voltage (36 V). If it is just replacing components it shouldn't be expensive, but , bare in mind, more elaborate work could be more expensive than controller (you'll just have to check it out). Hope that "malfunction" can be solved.
Watch out on the amp rating of the on/off switch (lamp switch isn't for the job, it could melt).
As for the repairs of the controller, I just mentioned one option out of top of my mind. Anyone who deals with electronics can repair it (unless leads on the circuit board had it), simply by replacing burnt components by the same/similar ones or upgrading it for right voltage (36 V). If it is just replacing components it shouldn't be expensive, but , bare in mind, more elaborate work could be more expensive than controller (you'll just have to check it out). Hope that "malfunction" can be solved.
Me think it's time to just order a bunch of 36 volt controllers. I just burned out my spare.
get the one with the green wire from tnc, It is impossible to wire it bckwards and I know all about it I have two and burned up one by over volting it,
