destroyed wheel makes current bike not worth it

matt167 · Jun 2, 2009

when the tensioner pully ate 3 spokes on my late 60's GrantSport bike.. repair costs will be at least $100, and it's just an old bike thats not worth much.. I'll keep it around so if I ever find a junk road bike with a good rear wheel, I'll put it back togther..

so later today, I'm taking a run to walmart and getting a new Huffy Cranbrook for $89.. I'v got a neat paint secret ( 2 diffrent common spray paints used togther, but I'm not saying what.. yet, until I got pics of the finished product ) for a red that will just POP with the cream white, and I'll probably spray a few parts that color

Echotraveler · Jun 2, 2009

dude! that repair is not 100..maybe 50 aint that bad...but if you got a new bike then ....yeah enjoy the new one, and be on the lookout!

HoughMade · Jun 2, 2009

You can get front and rear wheels from Husky with 11ga spokes you can't get on a cheap bike for well under $100.

matt167 · Jun 2, 2009

Echotraveler said:
dude! that repair is not 100..maybe 50 aint that bad...but if you got a new bike then ....yeah enjoy the new one, and be on the lookout!

I called every bike shop within a close vicinity of my house ( 30 miles ) and most don't even do those repairs, and the others that do.. charge $50 plus parts and reccomend a new wheel for $100... the break down of the repair from the 1 shop I would deal with.. $50 for the labor, $20 for new spokes, $5 for the ends, and $40 ( it got bent bad, along with the spokes ) for a new outer rim.... I guess I don't live in a bike friendly community...

matt167 · Jun 2, 2009

HoughMade said:
You can get front and rear wheels from Husky with 11ga spokes you can't get on a cheap bike for well under $100.

I contenplated getting new 1's, but the bikes just not worth it.. it's cool and all, being sold at a defunct department store ( W.T Grant ) but it's just a V frame road bike and not really anything special

matt167 · Jun 2, 2009

just got the new bike home.. so glad I did, because I took it for a spin unpowered and it pedals so much easier and rides so much smoother, and has a classic look that even tho the Grantsport is older, just didn't have the classic cruiser look

Earthman · Jun 2, 2009

Based on the volume of discussion about this problem on the forum, I’ve decided to add a strap to my chain tensioner to reduce its tendency to twist into the spokes during deceleration and engine starting (see the attached illustration). I’ll do this before putting many more miles on my MB.

matt167 · Jun 2, 2009

I have a spring tensioner.. bought it for the other bike but the upper bars were too small and the location of the tensioner wheel had to be close to the chain due to frame design so I had to run the upright tensioner.. I'll use it on this bike and it'll be good.

ThatPerson · Jun 2, 2009

I can tell you right now, do some fixing to the fenders on that Cranbrook! That is the same bike as mine and the tabs that hold the fender to the frame broke and almost threw me over the bars. Those little tabs were never made to put up with the vibration of the little engine. I used "L" brackets from the hardware store to fix mine up. I included a couple pics to show what happens when the tabs fail, and what I did to fix them. Also, in the last pic, you can see where the fenders themselves cracked.

2door · Jun 2, 2009

Earthman said:
Based on the volume of discussion about this problem on the forum, I’ve decided to add a strap to my chain tensioner to reduce its tendency to twist into the spokes during deceleration and engine starting (see the attached illustration). I’ll do this before putting many more miles on my MB.

There's an easy fix for this common problem. Once you have the tensioner properly aligned and I do mean properly, drill a hole through the tensioner bracket and the chainstay (frame) install a small, 10/32 is big enough, bolt and secure it with a locknut or Loctite. The bracket will never rotate into your spokes again. Or, you can fabricate a bracket like I do, weld it to the bike frame and forget about chain tensioner bracket problems forever.
Tom

ZnsaneRyder · Jun 2, 2009

Houghmade, have you tried those Husky 11gauge spoke wheels? How do they hold up to rough terrain?

ZnsaneRyder · Jun 2, 2009

2door said:
There's an easy fix for this common problem. Once you have the tensioner properly aligned and I do mean properly, drill a hole through the tensioner bracket and the chainstay (frame) install a small, 10/32 is big enough, bolt and secure it with a locknut or Loctite. The bracket will never rotate into your spokes again. Or, you can fabricate a bracket like I do, weld it to the bike frame and forget about chain tensioner bracket problems forever.
Tom

That's a great mod! I like that custom bracket!

matt167 · Jun 2, 2009

ThatPerson said:
I can tell you right now, do some fixing to the fenders on that Cranbrook! That is the same bike as mine and the tabs that hold the fender to the frame broke and almost threw me over the bars. Those little tabs were never made to put up with the vibration of the little engine. I used "L" brackets from the hardware store to fix mine up. I included a couple pics to show what happens when the tabs fail, and what I did to fix them. Also, in the last pic, you can see where the fenders themselves cracked.

I'v got some plans to beef them up.. I can see there kinda flimsy mountings.. just pedaling along going over a bump I can see them shake

matt167 · Jun 2, 2009

2door said:
There's an easy fix for this common problem. Once you have the tensioner properly aligned and I do mean properly, drill a hole through the tensioner bracket and the chainstay (frame) install a small, 10/32 is big enough, bolt and secure it with a locknut or Loctite. The bracket will never rotate into your spokes again. Or, you can fabricate a bracket like I do, weld it to the bike frame and forget about chain tensioner bracket problems forever.
Tom

slick tensioner mount.. wish I could weld that nice, but I only know how to make things solid and not pretty..

Retmachinist · Jun 2, 2009

2door said:
There's an easy fix for this common problem. Once you have the tensioner properly aligned and I do mean properly, drill a hole through the tensioner bracket and the chainstay (frame) install a small, 10/32 is big enough, bolt and secure it with a locknut or Loctite. The bracket will never rotate into your spokes again. Or, you can fabricate a bracket like I do, weld it to the bike frame and forget about chain tensioner bracket problems forever.
Tom

Tom, I think I have said before, I really like the way you fabricated and welded that chain tensioner bracket. That looks "Factory", and I mean U.S.A. factory, not Chinese.

John

matt167 · Jun 2, 2009

I just can't wait to start on it.. hopefully thursday it'll be ready.. taking my time on this install, the bikes a lot nicer to start with.. I'v got some simple solutions for the front mount I think will work

matt167 · Jun 3, 2009

well, after looking at it, planning the whole thing out, I decided I would just keep it as a regular bicycle.. it pedals very easy for a coaster brake single speed.. BUT, I'm still going to use the engine on somthing.. I have had a TC-100 frame ( was actully a 50cc engine originally ) around for a long time.. I have everything for it except shocks, tank and a engine.. so I did a little test fit and it's going to fit.. got the tank mounted and I'll be getting some flat stock to make some mounts that fit in the bikes original mounting holes.. I'll need the pull start kit for it but that's no big deal

2door · Jun 3, 2009

Retmachinist said:
Tom, I think I have said before, I really like the way you fabricated and welded that chain tensioner bracket. That looks "Factory", and I mean U.S.A. factory, not Chinese.

John

John, thanks.
I don't know if you've ever tried to weld on a Chinese frame but I was a little worried about the quality of the steel when I was planning that bracket. To my surprise however it took a TIG weld very nicely. I always use stainless rod so that helps but the Chinese Schwinn frame was good to work with. I had to reinforce the kickstand bracket and that weld went good too. I might have to brush up on my aluminum welding skills a little because I was looking at an 'Electra Townie' a couple of days ago and that is a beautiful (but pricey) bike, and its aluminum.
Tom

reg454 · Jun 3, 2009

You might want to take a full link out then install a half link so you can put your chain tensioner back a little farther. I have run into a problem where the chain cannot find the correct placement on the rear wheel and goes riding off the gear with it so close here is a pic to show you what I mean.

2door · Jun 4, 2009

reg454 said:
You might want to take a full link out then install a half link so you can put your chain tensioner back a little farther. I have run into a problem where the chain cannot find the correct placement on the rear wheel and goes riding off the gear with it so close here is a pic to show you what I mean.

Reg,
Just a suggestion but one that works well. The clamp style tensioner can rotate on the chainstay no matter how tight you make it. I took the liberty of drawing on your photo to Illustrate how to keep that from happening. Also most, if not all kit supplied tensioner brackets require a slight twist to align the pully with the chain path. When viewed from the rear most bikes have and angle to the chainstay that tapers away from the front of the wheel. The chain and frame do not often line up and twisting the tensioner bracket will get that alignment that might help with your chain problems.
Tom

destroyed wheel makes current bike not worth it

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