How Long Do Coaster Brakes Usually Last?

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Patr1ck

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Apr 15, 2010
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My Cranbrooks coaster brake just died after 320 miles. The brake arm that attaches to the frame rounded out inside where it splines to the hub. Now, I know that it is a Huffy, but how long should coaster brakes last? Would a Shimano cb-e-110 coaster brake hub last longer? How long would you expect that to last?

Thanks,
Pat
 
Bikeguy Joe

Bikeguy Joe

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I have never worn one out....not even my Cranboobs'. That arm is soft, I'll bet you could just put another on on there and it will be fine.
 
Bikeguy Joe

Bikeguy Joe

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I would say yes, but my Cranboobs brakes had very little grease...grease them when you put the sprocket on, and check them every couple hundred miles. Use a good hightemp wheel bearing grease when you do it, and be very generous with the grease.
 
Dave31

Dave31

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Mar 1, 2008
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The worst thing you can do to a coaster brake is run it dry. I have a cranny and have been using the coaster wheel for almost 2,800 miles now with no problems.

If you are looking to upgrade your wheel check out bicycles, tricycles, industrial bicycles, industrial tricycles, bicycle parts, tricycle parts I have been very pleased with there wheels especially there industrial wheels.

Tip: One thing to remember with coaster brakes is after using the brake it is a good ideal to pedal forward just a bit as to release any drag on the pads.
 
bairdco

bairdco

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Aug 18, 2009
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i've got coasterbrakes on bikes without motors that are almost 100 years old (seriously) and they still work great (after a bit of maintenance.)

i've been running a Bendix 76 on a set of Worksman wheels that i got from an old guy who never used them. they're from the 70's.

i was starting to get some weird vibrations and the hub kept loosening up. i thought the axle was stripped and the cones were loosening up, so i took the wheel off to replace it.

first thing i noticed was the hub races were cracked, so i decided to replace the hub with a new shimano.

when i took my sprocket adapter off, the wheel exploded. the hub flange had broken off and the only thing holding it together was the sprocket adapter.

the hub flanges are pressed on on the bendix hubs, but it broke just passed that. it just sheared right off.

kinda scary, considering i've been riding around at 40+ the day i took it apart...

also, i've maintained that hub, greasing it about once a month, so i don't really know why it blew up. coulda been a defect, or it mighta just not been able to handle the constant high speeds.

another weird thing, is the brake would still work and lock up, even with the busted flange.

hopefully, the shimano lasts longer than 6 months...
 
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Patr1ck

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fairracing31 said:
.

If you are looking to upgrade your wheel check out bicycles, tricycles, industrial bicycles, industrial tricycles, bicycle parts, tricycle parts I have been very pleased with there wheels especially there industrial wheels.
.
Click to expand...
I have one of their rear heavy duty wheels to replace the cranny wheel that just died. The one with the Shimano coaster brake and 12 ga spokes is the one that I got. I dont know how Im going to mount the rag joint and sprocket to this wheel as the spokes are larger and positioned further out towards the edge of the hub. The wheel wont let the coaster brake arm lay down on top of its splines in the hub. Do you have this type of rear wheel. What did you do to mount the rear sprocket? Anybody else have any ideas?

Thanks,
Pat
 
Cabinfever1977

Cabinfever1977

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Thats why i used only rubber on the inside of spokes and mounted sprocket right up against the spokes,well i did use a thin metal spacer to move the chain away from the spokes.

If anyone didn't have enough grease in there coaster brake hub, mine had enough grease for 10 bikes, then the hub exploded after 1 month of use, brakes still worked but made one hellava noise when riding and was replaced with a freewheel mountain bike wheel.
 
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Dave31

Dave31

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Patr1ck said:
Its the rag joint that holds the sprocket off too far to allow the coaster brake arm to seat. I may have to do some machining to the sprocket to open the inside hole a bit.
Click to expand...
I don't think it's the rag joint but the dust cover thats giving you your problems. I say this because I have never had or seen the problem you are having.

Buy trimming the dust cover will allow the sprocket to go over the hub thus getting your sprocket closer to the spokes.

http://motorbicycling.com/f30/coaster-brake-dust-cap-mod-1841.html
The pics I posted in this thread is the dust cover for the Husky wheel
 
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Patr1ck

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fairracing31 said:
I don't think it's the rag joint but the dust cover thats giving you your problems. I say this because I have never had or seen the problem you are having.

Buy trimming the dust cover will allow the sprocket to go over the hub thus getting your sprocket closer to the spokes.

http://motorbicycling.com/f30/coaster-brake-dust-cap-mod-1841.html
The pics I posted in this thread is the dust cover for the Husky wheel
Click to expand...
Yeah, I just went out to mess with it, and yep its the rag joint thats holding it out so far. If I took the outer rag joint rubber piece off then I would have the dust cover problem. I think Im gonna go with one of those cool sprocket adapters.
 
Dave31

Dave31

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Even after you bolt up the rag joint to the wheel it still will not allow the brake arm to be installed? Must be some super duper thick rag joint.
 
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Patr1ck

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fairracing31 said:
Even after you bolt up the rag joint to the wheel it still will not allow the brake arm to be installed? Must be some super duper thick rag joint.
Click to expand...
I havent bolted it up yet but it doesnt appear to allow the brake arm to seat unless by bolting the rag joint up it bends the spokes (which I dont want). The outer rag joint is @ 1/4" thick maybe a slight bit more.
 
Bikeguy Joe

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
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Patr1ck said:
I havent bolted it up yet but it doesnt appear to allow the brake arm to seat unless by bolting the rag joint up it bends the spokes (which I dont want). The outer rag joint is @ 1/4" thick maybe a slight bit more.
Click to expand...

I think you find it different when you 'bolt it up". The rag joint compresses quite a bit.

I don't recommend going without the rubber.
 
moronic_kaos

moronic_kaos

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Apr 6, 2010
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The cranbrook you just have to take the coaster arm off, put it in a vice, give it like a square bend (like 2 90 degree bends), and grind out the middle hole of the sprocket with a dremmel or whatever you've got. I've seen someone actually do it with a file but it took forever.

Mounting against the spokes is scary for two reasons. First off the obvious, it has a better chance of braking the spokes. The other reason is that the outer rag joint spaces out the sprocket a (usually) ideal distance outward, thus lessening the chance of the chain rubbing against the tire. The last thing you'll wanna to do once you're bike is all complete is go "aww !@#$, now I gotta go back to step 1 and re-do the whole sprocket again".

It's almost nice it works out that way though. That way, you get familiar with how the coaster brake and bearings work, and it gives you an excuse to grease it.
 
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