a little help norm

Wild,
Red grease (bearing) type is OK cause you can tell when it needs service(black), head bolts 10-11 ft lbs, the case bolts I use the old 14.4V milwalki impact gun, unlikely you can over Q the original hardware before it strips, std. torque indicates = 6mm around 60inlbs.

Mac

what are you going to lube on it? it's all basically self-lubricating. that's what the 2stroke oil is for.

and the grey gasket stuff that comes in a roll at pep boys and everywhere else works great for base gaskets and intake gaskets.

exhaust gaskets i use some stuff, it's called, uh, exhaust gasket material. it's metal lined, fake-asbestos type stuff. got it at a good, independent auto parts store.

head gaskets i just re-use my old one, or the extra one in the kit.

torque settings for me are as tight as i feel they should be. worked so far...

I use the grease for a bit of lube on the clutch gear and the wheel bearings etc, just personal preference

seriously, that's how i "torque" my motors. from years of working on stuff, i guess i developed a "feel" for it. i know it's not the exact, correct torque, but it works fine. it's that feeling you get right before you strip or break a bolt. like, y'know you shoulda stopped, but you didn't. well, i stop when i get that feeling.

no a hole-ness intended.

and they don't have pep boys in alaska? it's a nationwide autoparts store that's been in business for 100 years.

oh, and the only thing that really needs grease is the clutch shaft, but don't overdo it or it'll squirt out where it's not supposed to.

I just got done putting one of these back together crossing parts around from three different motors. While I found out all three motors were different in some ways here is what I got for you.


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q208/foureasy/DSC01079.jpg

http://motorbicycling.com/f13/hybrid-chinese-motors-performance-tuning-14204-13.html

This image location shows what Foursay has done. The photo on the right shows basically what our crank shaft balance was left at. We checked over three cranks finding one we would not have to grind.

I did not mean to side track you with that it is just food for thought. Our motor proved to be smoother than the other cranks we discarded. It was a smooth motor. The crank we used came from a rusted out Craigslist buy... Just used what we had.


We dry fitted the case observing side to side play on our crank . Believe it or not a really thick crank shell gasket left us some slop at the crank [side to side play]

We made our own gasket a thinner one that took up the play perfect. We used http://www.permatex.com/products/au...mum_temperature_rtv_silicone_gasket_maker.htm and have used this stuff on practically everything love the stuff!

Used a very thin layer on our crank case gasket was perfect [both sides of the gasket] Also used it on the other gaskets as well.

Now a bit of voodoo we put into our motor was..

On the Out put shaft bearings I took the inner seals out of the bearings facing the big clutch spring. My thoughts are here that with a well placed weep hole drilled into the bottom of the crack half casing over packing these bearings will not be a prob as any built up pressure will push the grease out of that weep hole. Now where the post that holds the clutch cable housing I take that post off later and I fill the whole cavity with bearing grease. There fore re-greasing the the bearings without major engine dis-assembly could be avoided.

The weep hole is my scape goat from building too much pressure and getting grease beyond the out side bearing seals and into the clutch. [important] Put the weep hole down low so water cannot get in also about a 1/4 inch or slightly larger hole is what we did.

My thoughts here are simply wipe away any weeping grease off the hole as it goes. I realize this is a controversial suggestion so let the fur fly!

If you are familiar with bearing buddies on trailer axles then you know it is easy to over pack them.

As for the clutch bearing there are three holes on the back side that you can gently pump and work grease into, did that as well.


Now we found when we went back together with the case halves was that after tightening up the halves. we took a large socket and hammer [gentle love taps] to the spots where the crank and out put shafts come through the casing. This proved to further settle the casing shut together better, as evidence showed our case bolts were loose again.

Used a hint of blue lock tight on our case bolts as well. As for how tight we got them we got them pretty tight. [Was hoping not to ever touch it again lol.]

Head gasket about 14 foot pounds is where we put it and looking at the size of the rest of the hardware you get the idea.

You may find over time on a new build that some of the grease will fly out of the clutch bearing just clean it up and go.. or possible slipping clutch will result.

Also meant to say that when we went back together with the crank case halves we did not have to touch the preload adjustment on the big clutch spring we never touched it.

This made readjusting the the flower nut the only thing we had to do pertaining to clutch adjustment when we reassembled. Cheers!

It doesn't make any difference if the studs are case studs or cylinder studs. If that engine is like the ole Chinese engine some cylinder studs are 6mm. Proper torque for 6mm is between 50 and 70 inch pounds. Proper torque for 8mm is between 150 and 204 inch pounds. I use 50 on 6mm and 150 on 8mm and have never had to re torque. I have replaced all external studs with a grade 8.8 which is about a US grade 5. Use double nuts one being a nyloc nut. Anything stronger is overkill.

You have Creative Engineering's billet head? I would follow his instructions to the letter..

There has been talk of the jugs port timing being set to low. I recon splitting the difference is a good short cut. However shimming the jug with gasket paper never made since to me. [ think metal] That is what I would do. You may want to window the skirt on the piston at top dead center so the intake port is all the way open. [Advances the timing on a 2 smoke]

This talk of shimming how ever means that to make the head Squish band right will require a plate of glass [think flat surface] and a lot of patient sanding.

As for your expansion pipe find a way to mount it to where it will not rattle. Using a metal gasket there is your best bet.

http://motorbicycling.com/members/foureasy/ sells better connecting rod bearings by the way.. You might want his wrist roller bearing that is the weak point on these motors when you hot rod them and over rev them. Might PM him..

if you're talking about using a "softer gasket" for the exhaust, unless you found something made for high heat applications, it would burn up. the grey gasket material i was talking about in my first post would be toasted if you used it as an exhaust gasket. that's the reason for the metal stuff in the gasket.

i have an older motor that had a thicker exhaust gasket, without metal sandwiched inside, and it basically blew out after it heated up, and when i took the pipe off, it crumbled into dust.

i used to get some awesome stuff from S&S headers for my car that was like a white, compressed clay type of material. i wish i could find some of that. sadly, S&S disappeared from Orange County.