kill switch and throttle problem

Wire the black from magneto to the black from the cdi and one of the wires from the kill switch, wire the blue wire from the magneto to the blue wire from the cdi and the other wire from the kill switch. Cap the white wire, it is use for a 6volt light. It sounds like the spring is not in the carburetor correctly or the barrel is stuck, either way you need to remove the carb to check. Remove the carb leaving the cable connected, remove the air filter and look at the barrel. You can do this without disconnecting the fuel line. The barrel of the carb can be put in 180 degrees out, there is a alignment pin that slides in the groove that is on the side of the barrel.

Tom, since the op said "kit " and hoped he got the cable in the carb correctly it sounds like a 2 stroke kit, if not maybe he will let us know.

I made the same mistake; i also put the small plastic barrel/tube thing into the carb incorrectly, this site saved me and told my dumb ass what I was doing wrong.

sounds like you figured it out.

i was gonna say the kill switch is for shutting off the engine, not for stopping the bike. you need brakes and the clutch for that.

rexfan10 said:

Hey all, turns out i put the small plastic barrel/tube thing into the carb incorrectly so it meant upon starting it would be stuck in full throttle, which is why when i turned the choke of it would send me flying, and as for the kill switch... its a bit embarrasing, but i wasnt pulling in the clutch whilst pressing it, meaning the engine was still sort of jump starting its self if you know what i mean. But thanks for all your help, and ill be sure to be more specific about what engine its etc. for next time i have a question. And incase you want to know the exact engine i have for future refrence, here is the exact one i bought from the same seller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261081688251?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 The seller was incredibly helpful when it came to putting it together and has being staying in-touch and helping me with all the other problems ive been having. Now that all those issue's are fixed the bike is almost running perfectly... accep i lost one of the nuts that tightens the throttle to the handlebars meaning it keeps coming loose and is dangerous/un-usable and the nut is very small and fits into a plastic groove meaning it must be a specific size and i cant find any locally. Ill post a picture and if anybody could tell me the size/ what type of nut it is a would be VERY grateful as it would mean i can finally ride my bike ! Thanks.

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From MT:

As far as the carb goes and the parts for it I’m not familiar with you particulars, but I guess you got a handle on that anyway.
My engine wiring is for a Briggs 3hp 70’s era 80202 0430, but whatever wires you use the idea of a kill switch is still the same.

When you speak of the kill switch and not pulling in the clutch (I would guess then its manual with or without gears or neutral), the engine still should not give power, just waste the fuel mixture and not even burn it.

Jake brake with a twist I might say. Jake brake is pressure release, but ignition still on. In any case what you should have is the intake and exhaust strokes or with two stroke engines all one in the same, and it should give an amount of drag that help stop you.

I have heard of bad gas and the dieseling situation when engine ignition is shut off weather clutch is pulled in, moving or not moving.

To the point, the way I set up my momentary push button kill switch is that it also has a second toggle switch in parallel just in front of the seat as a secondary switch in case the push button switch next to the twist grip throttle fails.

In addition to using the wire from the engine going to the two switches, I took a second wire that you could say would not be necessary as the whole bike is metal and ground, but I did one better. I connected a wire from the laminations on the magneto with a ring terminal and external start tooth lock washer and ran it to both switches. The grease in the fork neck to the handle bars where the push button kill switch is now taken out of the picture for continuity. For sure, now the ground is not trying to make a connection with grease in its path.

External star tooth lock washer is also on the nut that tightens in place the push button kill switch on the handle bars where I used another ring terminal with solder and heat shrink tubing. I also got a tip from a marine dealer and started buying heat shrink tubing with a sealant that coats the inside as it is heated like a glue. It keeps out moisture even better than just the shrinking alone. It usually is not found anywhere other than at marine boating stores. I live in silicon valley of CA and still electronic stores heat shrink I cannot find it other than marine stores.

External star tooth lock washers are really quite useful as well as scraping off any coating like clear coat paint if in the way. I just have to mention that the blower fan on an air conditioner on my car was not turning fast enough due to oxidation and paint not sanded off enough where a ring terminal was attached under the dash. I had the cold heat exchanger working and not enough air flow over it.

I had seen a cloud of thick white vapor so opaque that if I kept driving and left the AC on I would not have been able to see out the windshield. This happened years after it was working when they incorrectly installed it, but the guy at the place told me what to fix and I did the fix myself. Maybe what I do is over kill, but well that’s how I am.

MT