Pitbike fork for OCC Chopper triple tree?

So I'm looking for a suspension triple tree fork for my OCC build, and I would like a modern fork versus an old school springer because my build is on the modern looking side:



I've been looking around and the two options are an expensive triple tree downhill fork that will accommodate bicycle disc brakes, so I'd just need to figure out a hub or a replacement wheel, the other option being the nice forks for pitbikes:




You can get them off Ebay with disc brake, wheel(too small obviously), levers, and handlebars, and I was thinking this might be a good way to kill two birds with one stone, since I need a good front brake considering the rear is marginal at best.

The other option might be the front fork salvaged off a small motorcycle, like a Suzuki K10 or similar, but I think making it all work together might get really expensive and involve more fab work than I'm willing to do for a "happy time". The complete front end that has everything I need to get started seems like a better option than sourcing things from everywhere. I'd prefer to keep it all bicycle parts and use a downhill fork with bike disc brake, but cost might be prohibitive since these parts are top of the line downhill stuff.

The OCC frame is very strong, and I think it would be worth it to make it a bit more comfy over rough roads, but with some damping for the spring action. I don't mind if the fork is a couple inches shorter as long as the wheel has clearance through the travel, my bike will be about ride-ability more than rake and style.

I know the major technical issues will be mounting of the wheel, fork width, making the disc brake mount up or trying to make a bike disc work with the dirtbike caliper, and obviously mounting the fork to the frame. If anybody has any insights about how this will work out, please let me know. Fabrication is not an issue, I just want to avoid things getting really expensive or hitting a dead end because of critical dimensions.

Thoughts, opinions, experiences?

Thanks for the response Rick, any pics of this particular setup on a bike?

Hmmm, the k10 ones are awfully attractive, I just wonder if I'll have the domino effect of one thing after another needed to be modified to make it all work. I'm from the automotive racing and customization world so I'm fully aware of how that goes sometimes, and can sometimes leave you wishing you left well alone. lol

I'm first going to see if I can find a downhill fork for a good price, since they have the right headset tube diameter and can be adjusted for the correct headset length, plus I'll be able to use inexpensive bike disc brakes off ebay and the consumables will be cheaper as well. Fitting a bicycle wheel won't require adapters and the fork spread will be correct for the narrow wheel. If I go with a motorcycle front fork, I'll prolly have to up the hub width and at that point might as well fatboy the bike and put a 4" wide front on as well... $$$! I have only found one disc brake hub with 48 holes for the OCC front wheel, so I might end up looking around for a different wheel that's already got a disc hub, trouble is that 24" wheels are uncommon for mountain bikes so I'll have to get a custom wheel from ChoppersUS or similar, which will cost a lot.

It seems no matter which path I chose, it will not be cheap, but I guess I should go for the newest components I can get that will be the most durable and have the cheapest service parts, I have a feeling I'll be $1000 into this bike when it's all said and done, way more than I have ever spent on a bicycle before! Suspension is a must for this thing though, my docta says I need a backiotomy!

Any ideas or leads for inexpensive suspension triple trees, please chime in! Thanks

I guess if I can figure out a cost effective 48 hole hub replacement that will have sealed bearings so I can use a quick release axle, a disc brake mounting, and the proper width for these motorcycle forks, it would be a very nice setup indeed. I would like to retain the 24" wheel or go to a 20" wheel at minimum and use a fatter tire, would really like to keep as much of the bike bicycle parts because my bike's only 80 lbs even with the fairings and stuff, which will be easier on my back when I have to load it into the back of my car if I want to use it as a pit bike during race weekends.

Thanks again Rick, if I can find a nice fork I might just buy it because laying a couple welds would take no time at all. Maybe I can weld disc brake ears on the fork arm so I can use bicycle disc brakes. The k10 fork is very beautiful!

I have another question, is the oil-gas canister in the lower part of the fork by the axle mounting, because if I wanna weld ears on it I'll have to disassemble them and drain them and at that point might as well rebuild the seals and all that stuff, getting to a point where I don't want to deal with it.

I absolutely need a disc brake up front on this thing, the stock rear brake is craptastic, and it has no modulation. I skidded to a stop today when the bike threw the chain, if I was going 30 mph that would have been loads of fun!

I guess I could use a drum hub, but I think it will be a lot easier to find brake pads for mountain bikes locally and way easier to change them and bed them in than drum shoes. I wish this wheel had the normal 36 spokes, but I guess it has the rare 48 in order to be heavy duty and I shouldn't disregard that design factor.

Since I'll be using a bicycle wheel, and I'm not so thrilled about a front drum brake, or having to have the shocks rebuilt just to weld tabs for the disc brake caliper, either I'll need to fabricate a rigid bracket adapter for the front brake caliper ears, or give up on this idea until I know more about the assembly of the fork. I don't look forward to paying to have the dampers assembled submerged in shock oil after taking them apart for welding. Without the dimensions to the motorcycle caliper ears in relation to the axle center, I can't be sure an adapter bracket is viable. I want to ride this bike a lot, and with speeds of about 30 mph, changing brake linings will be an often occurrence, something that would be a complete PITA with drums. I prefer not to use a motorcycle wheel because they are generally too small diameter in relation to the 20" rear and are heavier than alloy bike wheels, one of my goals is to keep this thing as light as possible using bicycle parts, since I have to load the bike into the back of my sedan to bring it anywhere, since it's too heavy for my bike rack already.

Let us know how it goes though, and post pics, I really like the look of the motorcycle forks, there just seems to be a lot of technicalities that will make the pain not worth it financially to me. Maybe I'm overestimating the difficulty.

Looks gorgeous, I'm assuming you're using a motorcycle wheel as well? I really hope I can find a bicycle disc brake/wheel combo that will be sized correctly for this bike that's affordable, the only 48 hole sealed disc hub I've been able to find is $150, add $50 for a Ebay disc brake kit, ~$100 for the fork, and say ~$20-40 for bits and pieces to put it all together, and it's not gonna be cheap, on an already getting expensive build.

Since my next build is gonna be borderline insane fast, I'm wondering if I should just resign this thing to cruiser status and leave it or sell after I get it all sorted nicely. I really like how it rides, but a fork and a confidence inspiring brake setup that I can get parts for easily would make a world of difference. I guess if I want it to go from good to great, it's gonna cost some cheese.

Sure, you need to replace the hubs with drum brake hubs or buy complete wheels that have them installed. Sturmey Archer makes affordable ones that would work for this bike. Heck, I might use drum hubs instead of discs due to the price difference and no need for fabbing.

I just wonder how many stops you can get out of a drum hub before needing new shoes, and if there are any complications with them that would be eliminated with discs? I also wonder how much of a PITA it would be to service them when the shoes do wear out? I dunno.

I can get disc brake pads at any bike shop in the county, Sturmey Archer shoes? Not a chance.

Hmm, how's the stopping power vs disc for the Sturmey hubs? I just want something so that if a car cuts me off, I can threshold brake hard and not be pinching loaf like with the crappy brake that comes with the bike, I know disc brakes are excellent in that respect from my mountain bike.

I guess for a hydraulic setup, the pitbike fork and brake assembly would work or the K10 disc setup on the K10 fork if they had them? The biggest deal would be adapting the rotor to work with a hub, but maybe a rear wheel hub could be used and the four bolt brake rotor adapted to the sprocket mounting.

This is very interesting, I'm glad to hear that at least the fork conversion isn't difficult. I'd like to find a drum hub that has 48 spoke holes, but I gess if that's not available I could source a heavy duty wheel and spokes to lace to a 36 hole hub. I'm trying to avoid too much of the domino effect here, atsome point it makes you wonder whether buying a Tomos or a small motorcycle is more worthwhile, I haven't tallied up my reciepts so far because I don't want to think about it! lol

Actually, the forks on Ebay for a pitbike with 14" wheel and brakes included would only be 2" or so shorter than the fork on the OCC, making the bike have a less chopper appearance, but it would handle better. I don't know if they would cause the wheel to bottom out, but bumpstops are cheap.

It's a 24", I'll either go down to 20" or keep it 24" because I think 26" would be a little extreme. I found a couple wheels that would work for discs, one of them with a whopping 140 spokes! I don't like the idea of reducing the number of spokes from stock since the bike is heavier than it was originally designed to be, and goes a lot faster as originally intended. Less spokes means less strength for a given wheel rim. I dunno, gotta wait until I get some more spending money before I pull the trigger on buying any forks and decide on a brake option.

The next bike I make is gonna be twice as fast as this one, so I'm thinking I might save my money for putting good components on that bike instead so I don't kill myself riding it. I might go with the K10 forks if I can find a set that's affordable because they're dang fine, and would really make her ride smooth at reasonable speeds. Maybe down the line I'll go ape on this bike and make it really fast and put top notch brakes on it and possibly devise a suspension rear swingarm like a member here fabricated. For now this is all theoretical, I prefer to throw around ideas until the best one surfaces before spending money, and I appreciate all of your input.