bike and motormount pics
- Thread starter drhofferber
- Start date
it works great...you can purchase the bushing set at auto zone for $14.00...tierod ends...2 per pack...just dont use the bolt thats with it...its only grade 5...go to a fastener and get a grade 8 from them...dont buy counterfits at the hardware stores...taped out mount at 5/16 coarse...tight...i use Cold Wield...for added strenght...not jb wield...i wielded a piece of conduit on the frme expander flat plate and wielded the nut on it and bolt it in and run you mount bolt thru the frame and away you go...ha...as you can see i placed turn buckles on the engine...top and bottom...any thing goes wrong you are covered...hope this helps...need more just howler...good night...dennis
I'm not a structural engineer, nor do I play one on TV. This has issues - IMHO.
While I like the bushing idea for vibration dampening, I think this sends at the very least some visually alerts off in my brain.
1) I don't think drilling through the down tube is ever a smart idea. Maybe if it was a hole alone it wouldn't be an issue but you've got a buzz saw on a single bolt throught the hole.
2) Is that another hole (smaller) perpendicular to the mount hole?
3) You have the dynamic mass almost at the center of the chord.
So I put this all together and it seems you have created a fatique point and are purposely reefing on it with engine movement
I hope someone tells me I'm full of poo and you are safe.
While I like the bushing idea for vibration dampening, I think this sends at the very least some visually alerts off in my brain.
1) I don't think drilling through the down tube is ever a smart idea. Maybe if it was a hole alone it wouldn't be an issue but you've got a buzz saw on a single bolt throught the hole.
2) Is that another hole (smaller) perpendicular to the mount hole?
3) You have the dynamic mass almost at the center of the chord.
So I put this all together and it seems you have created a fatique point and are purposely reefing on it with engine movement
I hope someone tells me I'm full of poo and you are safe.
yea you could be right...at first i used the plate and a ubolt like a few others did, and than the motormount bolt broke...first of all i didnt like going through the frame either...but no choice other than buying a other engine...now when i drilled the hole i filled it up with GE silicone...and incerted a nylon sleeve, put the bolt in straight up and treaded it alittle and wiated the next day until dry...than the next day tore it apart and assembled it and it fit like a glove...second if you look at the bracket on the motormount, i have wielded conduit to take the shape of the mount...also stops the twisting...third...the bolt on the mount is wielded on the bracket on the inside...no that is not a hole on the side...i had to tap out the hole to 5/16 course and i have that bolt in there as you can see...now i have turn buckles on the top and bottom incase something does happen...ive changed all the bolts out to all thread..and this has stopped alot of the bolts coming loose...since than i have bought a new bottom end and a new engine for my next bike...but right now everything seems alright...if i new anyone around here with one of these bikes i could compare...but right now just doing what i can and it seems to be doing ok...the name of this game is to protect your ass...ha...now if there is anything else please feel free to suggest because GOD knows i need all the help i can get...my next bike is a gary fisher frame and a few ad ons...simple, not a parade bike...this is my first atemp and i dont give up easy...oh buy the way recieved your oil yesterday and thank you for the service...ill probably run it bone dry this weekend and put the amsoil in...thanks for the help and im going to keep looking for stress cracks...thank you
Hi
Is that a 3 point engine mount?
Could you please tell us about the 3rd point?
I was thinking about two metal clamps secured around rubber donuts in the mounting locations, and the engine bolted to the clamps
Will build my prototype and post pics
Peace
Is that a 3 point engine mount?
Could you please tell us about the 3rd point?
I was thinking about two metal clamps secured around rubber donuts in the mounting locations, and the engine bolted to the clamps
Will build my prototype and post pics
Peace
I have to go with Pablo on this one. Drilling your frame is a no no. Especially an aluminum one and in that area you are asking for trouble and his reasons are valid. Proceed with extreme caution and inspect daily for any signs of stress cracks emanating from the holes. When that happens throw away the frame and start over.
i like your idea...beafed up hangers from maybe an electrical department with urithane bushings, around 60 derometer might be the answer...i took my rubber shims off my back motormount and replaced it with leather...i use as many leather shims as possible...kills the vibration...i have my to motormounts and two turn buckles...i have two brackets i made...one on the exhaust and one on the back motormount...this is a crom moly frame not aluminum...i put this engine on the bike from instructions i recieved and the ones on the internet...wrong...now ive done it my way and its working...so put yours togeather your way and for good or bad...you'll have fun...keep me posted on your plan...im building another v frame bike...remember these are bicycles with engines...protect your ass and have fun...you know im going to be 62 next month...when i was a kid the weekly reader said we would all have are own helicpters by now...it didnt happen...use your ideas, because the assholes that thick they know everything are sent us down the wrong path...ha...keep in touch...dennis
I took a piece of 1/4 inch black pipe, ran it through frame and mig welded it in place on both ends.This made a solid mount with no stress on frame.Since the 1/4 pipe is 1/4 id the bolt fits great.Harley and honda do this on every frame they make and i have never seen one break yet.I know most of you dont have welders but it is worth the time to take it to a shop and get it done.you might want to drill the hole yourself and cut your pipe to fit and have it ready ,The more you do the less the welder will have cut and fit.Less time means less labor. HARLEYS DadI'm not a structural engineer, nor do I play one on TV. This has issues - IMHO.
While I like the bushing idea for vibration dampening, I think this sends at the very least some visually alerts off in my brain.
1) I don't think drilling through the down tube is ever a smart idea. Maybe if it was a hole alone it wouldn't be an issue but you've got a buzz saw on a single bolt throught the hole.
2) Is that another hole (smaller) perpendicular to the mount hole?
3) You have the dynamic mass almost at the center of the chord.
So I put this all together and it seems you have created a fatique point and are purposely reefing on it with engine movement
I hope someone tells me I'm full of poo and you are safe.
IMHO a tube inserted and welded in the frame to pass the bolt through would eliminate your potential failure point. Keith (trackfodder) Williams
Great looking bike. try this,on the tubes where your coil is mounted,put a hammer handle between them,turn the hammer head to spred them then slide your coil in,it will protect it also. HARLEYS DAD
