Stuck seatpost--destructive removal

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happyvalley

New Member
Jul 24, 2008
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upper Pioneer Valley
Hopefully you never experience this because it's a real pain....aluminum alloy stuck in a steel frame, the seatpost from h3ll, lol! The galvanic action can literally 'weld' the post in place.

Recently I picked up a couple nice vintage bikes, lugged cromoly steel frames:

post A.JPG

Unfortunately one of them had a stuck seatpost. I tried a number of tricks, spread the clamp lugs, nothing. Pipe wrench, nothing. Heat.....well aluminum expands 2 times as much as steel so heat doesn't help in removal but there is a trick of heating the seatpost with a torch to expand the aluminum and then letting it cool completely thereby hopefully breaking the corrosion bond. Tried, twice but nothing. Then the ammonia trick, ammonia supposedly dissolves aluminum oxide but it has to get down in to do any good. Again I got nothing. Only thing left was to saw it out. You saw off the post about 1/2" above the top of the seat tube and cut vertical slits down inside the seatpost with a hacksaw blade.

post 1.JPG

After breaking a few blades I made this: milled a slot into a 5/8" hardwood dowel and epoxied a hacksaw blade into it. I left just an 1/8" of the blade showing so I wouldn't cut into the frame.

post 3.JPG

A lot of work, maybe not worth it on some frames, about an hour on each slot. I've read where sometimes one slot is enough to kinda get the metal of the seatpost to curl inside itself with a pair of visegrips but in this case no go and I ended up having to cut 3 slots.

post 2.JPG

Finally, I was able to make some headway and get the damm thing free, loaded with corrosion.

post 4.JPG

Use anti-seize or grease, move them once in awhile, they can become a real pain in the neck when they freeze up like that. I hope this helps if you have a steel frame you want to keep or have trouble with a stuck aluminum seatpost in it.
 
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MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
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CA
I had heard of some stuff that used to be on the market, but had been discontinued.

It was supposed to dissolve ferrous material from non ferrous casting like aluminum engine as I had heard.

Not too well known, but it was supposed to have a couple of different acids that made it's name I think as thread out. Soak it out and then a broken off bolts is gone and nice aluminum threads left untouched.

I know you were working on the opposite, so dissolving the steel frame is not what you wanted to do, just ending up with a nice seat post not the best idea.

Maybe someday there will be the opposite stuff that will dissolve aluminum and not steel.

I ended up trying to drill out a ¼-20 steel bolt on an engine casting without the use of a drill press and it was not pretty. The thing that really made me kick myself was I thought the threaded hole for the flywheel shroud, this little nub of metal was solid all through-out it’s length. It was not. I suspect that the crankcase when casted was less prone to cracking when it cooled if they left a slight hollowing out of the nub, that the threaded hole for the ¼-20 flywheel shroud was attached with.

When I hand drilled off at a slight angle and it went toward the crankcase, I thought a little sideways is not good but I could make it work. No! It turns out that I just met up with the hollowed out space inside the nub and saw daylight coming through where I drilled when I pulled back out the drill bit. You see I had the crankcase cover off at the time.

Without having a real good way to weld back the metal. I turned the drill back on with a bit for a Heli Coil and also angled the drilling at a 45 to go through as much meat of the crankcase casting as I could. I made a wedge shaped piece of metal as a shim to had a ¼-20 bolt with split lock washer and coated with high temp red rtv to go into the Heli Coil I installed and sealed off my mistake.

Then I had to make another way of fastening the one of the three ¼-20 bolts holding on the flywheel shroud, and there have been no leaks of oil, Whew!

In the attached pic, you can see the rusted thread of the bolt still sticking out the other side of the casting.

Measure Twice
 

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wayne z

Active Member
Dec 5, 2010
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louisiana
Nice trick, and you definitly have perseverance LOL

Aluminum parts expand a lot with corrosion.

I've had to saw off a couple forks because of aluminum stems stuck inside.
 

rohmell

Active Member
Jun 2, 2010
1,531
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New York
Too late now, but maybe for next time, cooling the seatpost with dry ice, sending it down the middle of the tube and letting it sit there. aluminum will contract twice as much as steel.

This in combination with the heating, expansion and contraction over and over again could very well break the corrosion bonds. While contracted, send some penetrating oil down between the frame and tube.
 

happyvalley

New Member
Jul 24, 2008
784
1
0
upper Pioneer Valley
Too late now, but maybe for next time, cooling the seatpost with dry ice, sending it down the middle of the tube and letting it sit there. aluminum will contract twice as much as steel.

This in combination with the heating, expansion and contraction over and over again could very well break the corrosion bonds. While contracted, send some penetrating oil down between the frame and tube.
Heh, or liquid nitrogen for that matter but looking at the galvanic bond that was formed I don't think any thermal solution would've touched it. Penetrating oils are almost completely ineffective on fused alloy though, that's where the ammonia is supposed to dissolve the oxide.