Is it normal for it to be hard to pedal with the clutch disengaged?

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AntonioDAMAN

New Member
Oct 22, 2015
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Olivehurst, California
So, I recently bought a Flying Horse 66cc motor from Bikeberry, and just today got it all put together and ready to start breaking the engine in. That said, I noticed an issue when I went to test pedal the bike:

The clutch initially wouldn't disengage. I tried a few methods that I saw here on the site, and now the clutch seems to disengage... sorta. That said, I can't spin the three pegs with the clutch plate off, like you're supposed to be able to. I also noticed it's incredibly hard to pedal with the clutch handle pulled in.

I'm guessing there's an issue behind the pads further into the internals of the clutch and shaft, but I'm not sure. I've got the clutch lever adjusted like I've seen posted in various threads here, so... help? I'd love to get this engine broken in for the weekend!

Please Note: This is the first project I've ever done like this, so my mechanical aptitude and skill is a bit... lacking, to say the least.
 
Last edited:

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
Welcome to the forum, some of the engines I've installed were really tight too but freed up after a few miles of running the engine. That's part of the break-in process. After a few hundred miles it will get easier to pedal, not like before you installed the engine tho, you will be turning the clutch shaft which requires more torque.
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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you'll only be able to spin the 3 pegs if the chain is off

read here about adjusting cable & clutch - once adjusted properly, there will only be a bit of drag in spinning the extra chain
 

AntonioDAMAN

New Member
Oct 22, 2015
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Olivehurst, California
An update: I've gotten everything adjusted, and when I went to check for spark, to make sure I could get the engine to turn over... I got no spark. I'm guessing either the CDI, the magneto, or the spark plug is bad, so I get to take all three to my nearby Autozone to have them tested, as I don't have a voltmeter. Hopefully all three are good, and it's just the cheap-o connectors on the CDI (so I'd have to splice and solder the wires together). The magneto that came with my engine had no white ground wire.

To be honest, I'm wishing this whole thing would've gone a whole **** of a lot smoother! It's as if, when I originally talked to the Bikeberry people before I bought the engine, that they heard me say "I want to make this as smooth as possible" and sent me an engine that had been sitting for ages... super tight clutch, can't get a spark, crappy chain with the original kit. On top of the rear hub on the bike I got having a broken bearing shell!

So many issues... guess that'll make this whole thing that much more rewarding when this is all said and done.
 

AntonioDAMAN

New Member
Oct 22, 2015
16
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Olivehurst, California
Another update! So, because I have no ohms meter, I took the magneto, CDI and spark plug to the auto parts store near me, and had them tested. Magneto tested right at the lower end of the scale and was good. HOWEVER, the CDI... had no connection, and the meter wouldn't pick anything up from it. I'm guessing that the CDI is completely busted. :|
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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I've never seen a reliable way to test CDIs with a meter - I built my own tester for this, but that is beyond what the casual user can do.
 

AntonioDAMAN

New Member
Oct 22, 2015
16
0
0
Olivehurst, California
I've never seen a reliable way to test CDIs with a meter - I built my own tester for this, but that is beyond what the casual user can do.
I just followed what I saw on a few Youtube videos, from Bikeberry and a few other places. I first tested it with the connectors on; got nothing. Took the connectors off and tested straight onto the wires, but I still couldn't get anything. So, Bikeberry is sending me a new CDI today.