Dynacraft West Coast LTD Morini S5 E build

Ok, got all the important pieces for a build, it's taken most of the year and I got parts left to get.

I got the bike off craigslist for $100, The motor, Paughco tank and ItaliJet expansion chamber from eBay. The bars are off a LA Cycles BigMo, stock bars are straight drag bars.

Because of the way the motor hangs from the backside I will be using a tab setup welded to the frame attached by links that I'll make from aluminum. I'll be adding coupler nuts to the head stud so I can use them as an additional mounting point. I'm thinking on 6 steel tabs welded to the frame with 3/8ths all thread and lots of lock washers and nutz lol.

I hope the photo works, it's my first try at a online photo

That's just a mockup. I wanted to give an idea of what's going on. The motor is going to be mounted higher and rolled foward a bit so the carb is level. I need room for the half shaft and I'll probably be using scotto's halfshaft brake idea. Bike has a coaster brake but it also came with a back pull brake that someone removed. They even cut off the guides for the cable but left the posts. Problem is the arms on those brakes are so long I can't find any to replace them. That's ok, though. I'll be better off with a halfshaft brake instead of squeezing the rim. No front brake so one of these:

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Pineapple sprocket for the back. One question, though. if I don't want to run the coaster brake do I take the arm off or cut it off short and leave the end in as a spacer? Taking the brake arm off would make the pedals freewheel backpeddeling? Right? Or should the whole guts be removed?

I've seen some of those SA front brakes with the 6v gen for less than the cost of the non-dyno ones, that's probably what I'm going to end up with next payday.

I have to get some nice M8 1.0 nuts and bolts to mount the back sprocket. Everything else needs to be based on where it lines up. I can get the 2 sprockets on the halfshaft really close together. With the 3" back tire I could offset the motor but I want things as centered as I can get. Besides, I need the 40% reduction from the halfshaft to go to the 44 tooth rear gear sprocket.

As this is where it starts I'd better get down to Fastenall and get some bolts

Well, I just don't like the 44 tooth sprocket I got so I'm redrilling a 50 for the larger bolt circle the pineapple adapter needs. I just can't believe there's two bolt circles for the rag joints. None of the sellers say anything about that, none. I got the holes marked out and I'll be drilling them tomorrow, I hope. It's pretty certain that spacers will be needed as well as bending the brake arm.

Photo of the bike before I tear it down.

I read your thread, low. I liked the bike a lot and hoped to find one. Micargi's are more common and so are the OCC XL but I like this bikes style. When it showed up on craigslist here I was jazzed. The ad showed up halfway through the month. Called the guy and told him I didn't get paid until the first of the month but if he still had it then I'd get it. Payday I call him, my ride canceled out on me so he brought the bike over $100 it was mine. The tires are barely used, maybe 100 miles, maybe. If it wasn't for the fact someone took the stuff for the back pull brakes off it would be perfect.

gnu, I got this bike so I wouldn't have to do that lol. I have a LA Cycles BigMo that would have had to be chopped and streched to fit the Morini but the LTD is much bigger. I'm taking the short apehangers off the BigMo and using them on the LTD. The seat from the LTD is going on the BigMo as is a set of curved bars I have then I hope to sell it before Christmas, I need the money for the LTD I also bought new fork tubes with brake studs and brakes. The BigMo has back brakes and now it will have front, too. They won't fit the LTD tripletree but I am going to be using an idea I found in an old post. Using two bike stems and sawing the handelbars off to make individual mounts for each half of the bar. Hard to describe but looks cool and solves several problems at the same time.

Ok, today I went to drill out the rear 50 tooth sprocket for the larger rag joint size boltcircle the pineapple adapter is drilled to. After searching for a non-dull bit the right size I gave up, anything close needed sharpened. I'm getting myself a Drill Doctor for Christmas but that's not until next month. Looks like it's off to Harbor Freight for a drill set

Didn't like the Harbor Freight drill bits so I went to eBay and got some nice drill bits for less than the HF ones. Should be here Monday or so. Think I'll move onto figureing the placement of the mounting tabs. I'm looking at having 6 tabs to connect the motor to. Plan is to have each mounting point on the motor to run to two tabs each. Flat 1/4" aluminum strap will form a sorta lattice work. Once again, it will be easier to show than to describe My bandsaw really needs a new blade but I might be able to get enough cuts from it to do the job. $25 for a new BiMetallic blade. The cheap blades are just that, cheap.

Anyway, I'll have more photos. Still working on getting better pix but I'm figuring things out

Drill bits got here, they were junk. Couldn't even drill 1 hole inspite of claiming to drill steel. I got a cobalt Millwalkee bit on the way, just 1 bit and American made. I have Milwalkee bits that have drilled dozens of holes through 3/16ths steel. If I had one this size things would be going forward. At least my 3/8ths drill is Milwalkee

Used the new Milwaukee drill bit, cut like a laser through butter. No more junk bits for me

I got 9 M6 1.25 x 35mm button head bolts, lock washers and flanged nuts from ACE to put the sprocket on. I kinda knew I'd need a spacer for the hub and the rag joint spacer works fine, dished side out there about 3/8ths of an inch clearance. Should be enough to clear the chain around the 24" x 3" tire. Put the tire on the frame and no problems with interference anywhere. I could use a disc on the wheel mounted on a hat but I am using a halfshaft and I want to use a disc on it like scotto's doing. I have a new Manco brake caliper that would do a good job of stopping the bike, I really just don't like the coaster brake. I'll be bending the arm and hooking it up but more as an emergency brake than anything else

With payday in 3 days I'm getting a Stremly Archer Dyno brake hub for the front. The Dyno hub is about $10 more than the one without so it just makes sense to get it instead.

I got this Lucas antique headlamp I'll be converting to electric. I'm up in the air as to weither to leave the finish as is or polish it up, leaning towards the polish. Just don't know..

Bills kicked me in the butt this month so no front brake this time around

But that means onto mounting the motor

Tomorrow I grind out the center of the sprocket to get more clearance for the brake arm. Then bend the arm to fit. Then to mount the pineapple sprocket adapter on the wheel to help figure where the motor and halfshaft are to be mounted.

I've got some Stainless Steel allthread ordered with Grade 8 washers and flanged selflocking nuts to go with it. I want to make a kind of truss-looking motor mount. . You'll see what I have in mind this month

Sorry about that. The all-thread got here and I should be back at it soon. Just finishing up 2 bikes I need to sell. They are both ready for craigslist. I'm selling them cheap because I just don't need them more than I need the money

I'm thinking of taking the head off the Morini and reversing it so the mounting lug on the cylinder head is on the front to have one of the solid mounting points further away from the other 2. When I pull the head I'll be using longer coupler nuts to put it back together so I can mount angle aluminum to the top of the motor for another place to connect to the frame.

Sorry for the delays. My computer is down and I'm waiting on the replacement. I'm on my bro's comp and don't want to work from it but my new one should be here soon.

I'm taking photos and my skills there are getting better. I'm working on getting the motor in the right position where everything clears everything else. Think I found a set of rear caliper brakes that will fit, at least I hope they do. They were missing when I got the bike but it does have a coaster but I really don't want to depend on that.

Plan is to have this ready for the Boise Roadster Show. That very much depends on cash flow

Sorry everyone, I let this drop 5 pages back but I have just about all the pieces to get back to building. We couldn't find the King/Queen seat I had spotted at Cycle Salvage so it looks like I have to build one

The front wheel was dropped of at at wheel rebuilder where he will try the 4 cross laceing the Sturmey Archer X-FDD Dyno Drum brake to the 24" rim. He thinks we just might be able to use the old spokes, I'm hoping so. If not then he can get zinc plated spokes for .30 or SS spokes for .50 which would be the ones I go for.

I got parts coming in from American Power Sports for the brake setup on the halfshaft. I'm using a halfshaft so I don't have to off-set the motor to clear the chain because it would rub on the tire if I didn't. That way the halfshaft serves two things. Transfering power to the rear wheel and stopping the bike.

Key to this is the seat post The main motor mount will be welded to the bottom frame and the seatpost then on the backside of the post the halfshaft is to be welded on. I think the lower portion of the fender will have to come off to make room, I'm not sure, yet.

Still working on figureing what the heck this computer wants to transfer photos. The old one under XP I had no problems but I have Vista Basic, don't know what it wants