Completely New to This

GoldenMotor.com
May 9, 2012
138
0
16
Jackson, TN
Hello everyone!

I'm a college student and my car just died. I've been looking around at different (and cheaper) ways to get around, and came across motorized bicycles. I really think this would be great, but I don't know much of anything about it.

So I have a few questions...

What engine kit should I get?
What bicycle?
What things do I need to consider when choosing?

(I know alot of the choice comes down to what I need...so how do I figure out what I need? ;) )

Anyway, hello everyone! And thanks in advance for info! :)
 

kolomootro

New Member
May 24, 2011
62
0
0
ohio
the bike should be preferably v frame,with gears,because the sprocket wont fit well on a coaster brake bike(the kind u pedal backwords to stop)
You should probobly buy a chinese kit,those are the easiest and cheapest.
All the Chinese kits are basically the same.here are some I would buy.
http://www.piratecycles1.com/66bienkits.html
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...=motorized+bike+kit&_sacat=See-All-Categories(look though the options buy a gas not electric)
the ebay sellers have supposedly bad costumer service but i bought a part from one and it came ok.
Or you might wanna consider a Goped or a moped becuase those are better quality and they are put together already.
just as a warning though a motorized bike kit isnt fast,so in my opinion the safest place to ride it is on the sidewalk,
 
May 9, 2012
138
0
16
Jackson, TN
Thank you for the info!!

As far as it not being fast...I'm planning on purchasing a bike this weekend to ride to and from school anyway (6 miles...dang...) so speed isn't really an issue. I'd probably mainly use the motor to help me up hills or to use when I'm wore out and don't feel like pedaling. :)

EDIT: I've realized I'm gonna buy a bike and ride it awhile to save up money to motorize it. So I'll need a bike that's an easy ride either motorized or otherwise...so what bike would y'all suggest? I know one thing...I much prefer and old-school Y-shaped handle bar than either the flat or the cruiser style :)
 
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kolomootro

New Member
May 24, 2011
62
0
0
ohio
thats great then, i use mine like that too.
They go from around 20 to 35 MPH depending on tuning,but some are slower then others i guess.
 
May 9, 2012
138
0
16
Jackson, TN
Alright so here's what I've ended up deciding to get (I'll be buying them tomorrow):

Bike (same as above)

Engine (different)


I also found this guide and plan to follow it.

I'm planning to buy the gaskets and hardware kits from that guy and replace them all on the engine (as well as a new NGK spark plug, new plug wires, and new kill switch).

Now after doing some research on here, it looks like the bike is a really good one for motorizing, however I've heard that I need to remove the fenders (or reinforce them), get a new rack for carrying heavier things, upgrade the brakes, and move the shift handle over to the left handlebar.

Is that everything? Where can I get a new rack and new brakes?

Thanks!
 
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May 9, 2012
138
0
16
Jackson, TN
After reading some more I'm seeing people are saying that 4-strokes are more reliable. Is that true? What abou this kit: http://www.flmotorbikes.com/ ?

I don't like the looks (or the price), but reliability is pretty important to me since this is my main form of transportation. What are y'alls thoughts?
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
AFP,

Just wanted to add something here that you may need to consider.

If the bike you are going to use has size 26 X 2.25 tires you could have an issue with the chain rubbing the tire, if this is the case you may need to put 26 X 1.95 tires on it or at least the rear so that you will have enough clearance between tire and chain if that is an issue.

I have built three bikes for myself and I prefer 36T or less tooth count on for the rear sprocket, most kits come with a 44T which is good for hills but for flat out and moderate hills a 36T rear sprocket will add top speed and lower engine RPM at 20-25MPH cruise speed which make the vibrations from most of these China Girl engines much sweeter......

Replacing at least the intake gasket and the mounting hardware as you mentioned is an excellent idea, be sure to secure the Chain idler/tensioner very good to the frame by drilling through it and just into the first wall of the bike frame tube so you can put a small sheet metal screw through bracket and into frame tube, this will eliminate the possibility of the tensioner rotating into the spoke and causing you a trashed wheel and possibly a not so fun crash.

Best wishes with the build, you in the right place where there are many people that can answer any question you may have along the way, just continue to research this sight using the excellent search feature and you'll be on your way to becoming a MB addict like most of the rest of us are.........LOL!

Peace, Map (^)


Alright so here's what I've ended up deciding to get (I'll be buying them tomorrow):

Bike (same as above)

Engine (different)


I also found this guide and plan to follow it.

I'm planning to buy the gaskets and hardware kits from that guy and replace them all on the engine (as well as a new NGK spark plug, new plug wires, and new kill switch).

Now after doing some research on here, it looks like the bike is a really good one for motorizing, however I've heard that I need to remove the fenders (or reinforce them), get a new rack for carrying heavier things, upgrade the brakes, and move the shift handle over to the left handlebar.

Is that everything? Where can I get a new rack and new brakes?

Thanks!
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
The friction drive set up with a 4 stroke is a good choice for low maintenance and easy installation no doubt, if you plan to go that route I would suggest going with one of the Thats Dax kits, click the link far top right of this page and look at his pat. pending set up and one of his 4 stroke Titan engines, I plan on getting one of these myself in the future, best thing is that Duane who owns ThatsDax his a great fella who offers top of the line customer service just like others who advertise here on the forum, in my opinion you can't go wrong with the Dax kits.

Peace, Map

After reading some more I'm seeing people are saying that 4-strokes are more reliable. Is that true? What abou this kit: http://www.flmotorbikes.com/ ?

I don't like the looks (or the price), but reliability is pretty important to me since this is my main form of transportation. What are y'alls thoughts?
 

Dymaxion

New Member
Jan 1, 2010
66
0
0
Michigan
AFP - tough choice between 4 and 2 stroke. 4 strokes will generally be more reliable than a 2 stroke, but there are MANY 2 strokes around here with thousands of miles on them.

If you go 2 stroke, I would suggest taking your time and tearing the engine down before installing. Lots of little cleanup items from shoddy chinese QA that will improve reliability. Things like bad casting seams that need to be ground/sanded off, sand the head surface and other mating surfaces to be smooth and flat. Also spend lots of time getting the rear wheel drive sprocket true and perfectly lined up with the motor drive sprocket. I'd also get better hardware before buttoning it up.

Personally I love 2 stroke motors and have an extremely reliable bike running an el' cheap'o Chinese kit.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
I also agree with all you said here, the reason I talked up the 4 strokes FD so much is because being a college student I figured he hasn't the tools or the place to do all the mods that really need to be done to make the 2 stroke CG reliable as it can be, I also have three bikes with the 2 smokers that I absolutely love to ride and tinker with, they all have mods that have made them pretty bullet proof up to this point but a quality 4 stroke will still likely outlast them and for someone who hasn't the tools, the time, or the place for working all the bugs out of the 2 smokers...., the 4 stroke FD kit will be a good match for them in my honest opinion for all the reasons I've stated.

BUT.YEP, I agree on really liking the 2 stroke engines, they pack a heck of a punch for there size when done up right and tight.... nothing like the smell of Opti2 in the morning............sorry just had to plug what I consider to be one of the best 2 smoker oils out there, I love the stuff.

Peace, Map


AFP - tough choice between 4 and 2 stroke. 4 strokes will generally be more reliable than a 2 stroke, but there are MANY 2 strokes around here with thousands of miles on them.

If you go 2 stroke, I would suggest taking your time and tearing the engine down before installing. Lots of little cleanup items from shoddy chinese QA that will improve reliability. Things like bad casting seams that need to be ground/sanded off, sand the head surface and other mating surfaces to be smooth and flat. Also spend lots of time getting the rear wheel drive sprocket true and perfectly lined up with the motor drive sprocket. I'd also get better hardware before buttoning it up.

Personally I love 2 stroke motors and have an extremely reliable bike running an el' cheap'o Chinese kit.
 
May 9, 2012
138
0
16
Jackson, TN
Thank you SO much for the advice!!

And yeah...as much as I'd LOVE a 2 stroke (for looks and speed and everything else ;) ) I should probably go with the 4 stroke.

So I'm looking at thatsdax...I need the motor and the friction drive kit right? EDIT: I just saw that he has an in-frame 4 stroke mounting kit. That would be PERFECT! Is there any reason I shouldn't use that? :)

A few questions about that setup:
I'm assuming I still should upgrade the brakes and remove the fenders?

Will the friction drive work fine in the rain and snow and such? EDIT: Obviously doesn't matter if I use the in-frame kit :)

Because I'm a college student I'm going to be needing to bring my books to school. Although I might COULD just put the backpack on my back, Is there anyway to get some type of waterproof (or close to it) enclosure somewhere on the bike to hold stuff when it rains? EDIT: If I use the in-frame I could just put some sort of small box/bag/rack thing above the back tire right?

Thanks again for all y'alls help! :)
 
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mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
looks like the bike you picked has good brakes so I wouldn't worry about them at all.

Rain and icy weather may cause some slippage with the friction drive, I do know that Duane claims is will still work pretty good even when wet if the pressure between the tire and drive roller are correct, so that may not be a huge issue for you but I can't say for sure being I'm not running one of his FD kits at the present time.

I ride my motorized bikes, I ride a 150cc China scooter and I ride a 1982 Yamaha 650 Maxim all the time and I carry my junk in a good back pack on my back, as a matter of fact I made a 25 mile round trip today to a close by small town to do some shopping and I hauled everything I bought back home on my back in my pack probably 10+ pounds of stuff and I can hardly tell it's there.

In rainy weather I'd wear a rain suit and id wrap my pack in a trash bag or some other rain proof cover, you may even be able to get a rain proof pack....that would be great as well.

Hope this helps, Map




Thank you SO much for the advice!!

And yeah...as much as I'd LOVE a 2 stroke (for looks and speed and everything else ;) ) I should probably go with the 4 stroke.

So I'm looking at thatsdax...I need the motor and the friction drive kit right?

A few questions about that setup:
I'm assuming I still should upgrade the brakes and remove the fenders?

Will the friction drive work fine in the rain and snow and such?

Because I'm a college student I'm going to be needing to bring my books to school. Although I might COULD just put the backpack on my back, Is there anyway to get some type of waterproof (or close to it) enclosure somewhere on the bike to hold stuff when it rains?

Thanks again for all y'alls help! :)
 
May 9, 2012
138
0
16
Jackson, TN
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NunyaBidness

Active Member
Jun 29, 2008
1,062
2
38
memphis tn
That would be one of those things that you'll see when you have everything and see how your chain runs. A lot of questions you have will be easier to answer when you have your kit.

You're headed in the right direction. The vendor and kit you're looking at do both come highly recommended. Good luck and remember we like to see pics of your build.
 

motobike

Member
Apr 14, 2012
37
0
6
Los Angeles
Don't forget, you will need a wider pedal crank to clear the wider 4 stroke motor and gearbox. Some kits come with it, some dont. 4 strokes are not as loud as the 2 strokes and you don't have to mix the oil at every fill up. Make sure you line up the front and rear sprocket well, as that is the hardest part of the build. It will take more than a couple of hours to put together, but is well worth the trouble. Make sure you break in the engine on the first few rides. They climb hills really well with the stock rear sprocket, but you can gain some mph with a smaller rear sprocket.
 
May 9, 2012
138
0
16
Jackson, TN
After a bit more research I'm thinking about getting this rack instead, and not using a fender. I'm going to only be riding on the road, and the reason I want a fender is to keep from having water sprayed up on me.

Will that work as the only thing on the back?

And I'm thinking I'll get one of these fenders for the front. Which one would y'all suggest?