Hello, I just got a new got a new 80cc engine kit. I just have two problems. What wires am I suppose to splice, if I need to. The gear in the motor will not turn, I think I am installing the clutch wrong. How do I install the clutch?
New 80cc kit.
- Thread starter Best Toy Ever
- Start date
Not sure what you mean by splicing wires.....?
Search this forum by using search box for hooking up clutch cable or just look at pics of people bike and you will clearly see in many of them the correct way to run clutch cable, very simple....
Wires from coil to engine are color coded the same normally and just run one wire from kill switch to blue wire on coil and run the other wire from kill swotch to frame or engine for a ground.
Search this forum by using search box for hooking up clutch cable or just look at pics of people bike and you will clearly see in many of them the correct way to run clutch cable, very simple....
Wires from coil to engine are color coded the same normally and just run one wire from kill switch to blue wire on coil and run the other wire from kill swotch to frame or engine for a ground.
How do I remove the bolts at the bottom of the motor to mount the front of it? What is the size of the bolt that goes through the hole in the bicycle in the front of the motor assembly? What would be a equivalent if I bought one from a store? How would you mount the motor from the front, if different from the Manuel that came with the bicycle?Thank you all for your help.
Studs in front and back are 6mm, to remove them you will need to double nut each of them, to do this you take the nut off of each front stud, thread first nut on stud down far enough that you can thread the second nut on and up against the first one you put on, now you will need one 10mm wrench and either a second 10mm wrench or a rachet and 10mm socket, put wrench on first nut you put on stud and put socket or other wrench on second nut you put on and now turn them toward each other so that they lock together good and tight, now put your wrench on the nut closest to the engine and turn the wrench counter clockwise, this will back the stud out, then loosen the outter nut from the inner nut and repeat the process on the other one.
As for oil for mixing with the gas just use a quality 2 stroke oil like you will find at napa, autozone, advance auto, OReilleys auto parts....ect. dont buy the oil designed for outboard boat engines like quick silver, evinrude.
penzoil, valvoline, royal purple, Lucas, yamalube, maxima, and several other oils will be fine as long as the oil is a good quality oil designed for air cooled engines and I would mix it at 32:1 ratio.
Not sure if this answered your questions completely but I hope it helped.
Map
As for oil for mixing with the gas just use a quality 2 stroke oil like you will find at napa, autozone, advance auto, OReilleys auto parts....ect. dont buy the oil designed for outboard boat engines like quick silver, evinrude.
penzoil, valvoline, royal purple, Lucas, yamalube, maxima, and several other oils will be fine as long as the oil is a good quality oil designed for air cooled engines and I would mix it at 32:1 ratio.
Not sure if this answered your questions completely but I hope it helped.
Map
Manuel? My bike didn't come with a Manuel. **** it barely came with a manual. This place taught me all I needed to know about motor bikes. Not making fun of you bro just reminded me of this scene in Wall-E.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfGeE1mO90o
If you are replacing the mounting hardware, which is a good thing to do, make sure you get the highest grade (or strength) possible to prevent them from breaking. Nothing worse than having your engine fall off when you are miles from home.
Also make sure that you use a quality NON SYNTHETIC oil. Though it has been debated, breaking in with a non synthetic oil still is preferred for break in.
AND by all means, use the wonderful search feature of this forum, your questions have probably been asked and answered a hundred times before. These lovely little engines haven't changed that much over the last 3 years. So you will not only find answers and information out the ying yang, you will also prevent clutter. Just do some general reading to get familiar with the terminology so you know what to look for.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfGeE1mO90o
If you are replacing the mounting hardware, which is a good thing to do, make sure you get the highest grade (or strength) possible to prevent them from breaking. Nothing worse than having your engine fall off when you are miles from home.
Also make sure that you use a quality NON SYNTHETIC oil. Though it has been debated, breaking in with a non synthetic oil still is preferred for break in.
AND by all means, use the wonderful search feature of this forum, your questions have probably been asked and answered a hundred times before. These lovely little engines haven't changed that much over the last 3 years. So you will not only find answers and information out the ying yang, you will also prevent clutter. Just do some general reading to get familiar with the terminology so you know what to look for.
Last edited:
How and where on the connection from the gas tank to the carburetor do install the fuel filter? Can I tighten the chain as tight as possible without consequences?
I like to put the filter just a couple inches from the carb so that its weight stands vertically on the fuel line, this keeps it from vibrating & swinging around too much.
Chain must be set with just a bit of slack at its tightest point in the rotation because if it gets too tight REALLY bad things happen.
Chain must be set with just a bit of slack at its tightest point in the rotation because if it gets too tight REALLY bad things happen.
Yes chain needs to have a small amount of slack, extremely tight chain is not good.
I also put my fuel filters fairly close to tank petcock.
crassius already made this clear, I'm just backing up what he said.
Map
I also put my fuel filters fairly close to tank petcock.
crassius already made this clear, I'm just backing up what he said.
Map
Hello, sorry for all these questions. I just can not keep the chain on the motor gear and the sprocket. It keeps making a popping noise then comes off. I keep little tension then I tighten and then keep it loose and it doesn't matter. It will not stay on. Also, I think there is a gas leak along with black liquid on the motor. I changed the gasket part that is rubber made and it still does. Wow and this is a brand new engine kit. What is going on?
The wheel will stay locked untill you get the clutch lever and wire on. The arm swings inwards to release or lift the clutch. Push it in, the clutch arm lever on the engine, and see if the wheel then rotates.
With it properly adjusted the clutch lever pulled in will have it loose.
With it properly adjusted the clutch lever pulled in will have it loose.
Little slack not little tension put your finger on the chain... in the middle... it should only move up or down 1/2 inch or so. Read this. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GcesQihc7-mm3hJGf7UPiqOaRXZ8ekUT99QUZq2qXXE/mobilebasic?pli=1. It is by a forum member, if you follow it You will have less problems. It's all downhill from here at least it runs. I remember my first bike I was tempted to throw it on the dumpster when I was getting it set, luckily we have this forum and the help of other members. It gets easier..good luck.
Don't grind any teeth. Your chain might need to be aligned. Check to make sure. If the engine is offset one way or the other this is what happens.
BTE, my question is what brand of kit do you have, reason im asking is that some kits come with a standard 410 size chain and some come with the wider 415 chain, if by chance the engine sprocket is the wider sprocket designed for the 415 it will cause you all kinds of trouble if the chain is 410 chain.
If it is a chain sprocket mismatch the chain is trying to ride on top of the engines sprocket, the best way to find out if this is happening is to do as it has already been mentioned, remove spark plug, remove clutch actuator cover, raise back wheel up off ground by hanging bike up on something with some rope or a rachet strap and rotate rear tire and closey watch what the chain is doing as it rotates around engine sprocket.
If it drops down into sprocket sometime but then is trying to ride up on sprocket in some areas do what was mentioned and grind teeth to a better point and see how it does, if chain is always riding up on sprocket then you likely need to replace the chain for a 415 chain.
I have seen some of the cheap kit chains that are very poorly made so it could just be a junk chain that is giving you the grief, if it is an issue just search KMC415H on amazon.com and you'll find some good eals on a good quality chain that will solve the problem if it is a junky chain thats the problem.
Best wishes
Map
If it is a chain sprocket mismatch the chain is trying to ride on top of the engines sprocket, the best way to find out if this is happening is to do as it has already been mentioned, remove spark plug, remove clutch actuator cover, raise back wheel up off ground by hanging bike up on something with some rope or a rachet strap and rotate rear tire and closey watch what the chain is doing as it rotates around engine sprocket.
If it drops down into sprocket sometime but then is trying to ride up on sprocket in some areas do what was mentioned and grind teeth to a better point and see how it does, if chain is always riding up on sprocket then you likely need to replace the chain for a 415 chain.
I have seen some of the cheap kit chains that are very poorly made so it could just be a junk chain that is giving you the grief, if it is an issue just search KMC415H on amazon.com and you'll find some good eals on a good quality chain that will solve the problem if it is a junky chain thats the problem.
Best wishes
Map
I agree that what you said is a good way to go if it's an issue with burrs on the sprocket that is causing BTE problem.
How do you find out the chain size and the type of engine? It said 80cc. How fast can you go in the very beginning of an engines break in period?
