Engine wont start

GoldenMotor.com

felipeamicis

New Member
Apr 17, 2013
2
0
0
New york city
Hi there guys first time here !
I searched around the forum but I coulnt find an answer to my problem !
Gotta a brand new GRUBEE 2012 SkyHawk GT5 66cc/80cc [http://www.kingsmotorbikes.com/product_51_detailed.htm] came in last tuesday I put it together on my bike first issue was I couldnt pedal clutch was way too tight I took care of that. Im using 16:1 as said in the manual but the bike wont start for nothing !! Ive tried adjusting the needle but there is only one level for the little circle that it has around it so that didnt work.. you guys think its an eletrical problem ? when i pedal i can hear the engine but it just wont start plus theres a little gas dripping from the filter on the gas tank :-||
hopefully you guys can help me out on this one I dont know what the **** to do anymore...
Have a great night !!
 

oylavabeer

New Member
Jan 9, 2009
214
0
0
Perth Australia
Remove the plug then put it back in the cap rest the plug on a metalic surface of the engine now walk the bike with the clutch released and see if it sparks
 

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
I was going to suggest the same first-step as Mr. Beer Drinker. If no spark: get a multimeter and check the resistance on the blue/black wires coming out of the engine (disconnect them from everything else). Should show about 330-ohms. Also, make sure that the white-wire is either sealed or completely cut off; this is meant to be for a headlight, but it's useless and could cause problems if it gets grounded.
 

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
2
0
USA
Disconnect kill switch until you get her running.
Make sure white wire isn't touching anything.
16:1 is a LOT of oil, contrary to what the manual says you'd be better off with 20:1 mix, thats plenty of oil and the motor will run better.
Make sure the carb is seated all the way down on the intake. Inside the carb neck there is a black rubber gasket that needs to seat around the intake.
You may have flooded her out already, so pull the plug, if it is wet dry it off (or use new plug), before you reinstall the plug turn the motor over a few times with the plug out to push out any built up gas (make sure there is no spark or flame around to ignite any fuel that may come out of the spark plug hole). If the plug is bone dry then try to figure out why fuel isn't flowing....
When you try to start her up ride up to a good speed, pop the clutch and continue riding, hopefully she will start, pulling the choke lever may help....
good luck
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
5
0
Left coast
sure, it's possible to run at 16:1...

if yah really want to run your oil thick at the beginning, maybe a pint or so, mixed at 20:1 might be good for 1st startup.
but I would switch to 30:1 immediately after that and break it in like BikeguyJoe says for a tank of gas... then switch to 40 or 50 to one with some kind of decent oil.

NOT desireable to Pop the clutch... that may send the chain idler into the spokes... you can just slip it out quickly... but kill wire should be disconnected until you get things sorted out.

good luck
rc
 

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
2
0
USA
sure, it's possible to run at 16:1...

if yah really want to run your oil thick at the beginning, maybe a pint or so, mixed at 20:1 might be good for 1st startup.
but I would switch to 30:1 immediately after that and break it in like BikeguyJoe says for a tank of gas... then switch to 40 or 50 to one with some kind of decent oil.

NOT desireable to Pop the clutch... that may send the chain idler into the spokes... you can just slip it out quickly... but kill wire should be disconnected until you get things sorted out.

good luck
rc
I don't agree with your oil recommendations, I run 32:1 as a standard mix and my motor loves it. I generally break in with 1st gallon 20:1, 2nd gallon 24:1 and then 32:1 from there on. Different strokes for different folks I guess, but I think 50:1 is bit light on oil for a standard mix and 30:1 is light on oil for break in. You've (OP) heard the varied recommendations, do whatever you feel is best with your motor.
On the idler, if popping the clutch is gonna send it into the spokes then IMHO it's not safe. I run without a chain tensioner anyways, but not because it was twisting into my spokes (I have oval tubes on the back which prevent the rotation of the idler), I removed the tensioner because it caused too much noise and resistance and always needed to be tinkered with. Without the tensioner my chain is bliss...
Regardless of what you do with the tensioner you are probably gonna want to upgrade your chain, cause the kit chain is a POS and is bound to break sooner than later. I run an industrial/farm #41 chain with is uber strong, but there are a number of bike chains like a heavy 415H that will work well for you, the kit chain is just a weak link and bound to fail.
Speaking of weak links, the spark plug, plug wire, plug boot, chain and chain tensioner are all weak links and should be upgraded IMHO. It only costs a couple bucks to make all those changes. I also changed out the plastic throttle for a metal one, and the fuel valve for a better one (that wont leak or restrict the flow). All these items are on the list of common failures many riders have in the first couple hundred miles, if you take care and replace them with good quality parts you will be less frustrated by constant break downs. Also, the studs and other hardware that come with the kits are pretty poor, installing an upgraded hardware kit is another good idea...
Good luck!
 

LAguyyy

Super Skilled Master Newb
Feb 25, 2013
37
0
0
Honolulu, hi
Same problem here with my kit. After checking I had spark on the plug I found the problem with the wiring. I switched to butt splices and just didnt have a good contact. Carb adjustments and a couple plug chops came later after I got her fired up. As for nightriders oil mix, I agree. I ran exact same amount and she purrs with upgraded chain. I strongly recommend a hub adapter because my first wheel bent into a banana from not being properly torqued!
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
5
0
Left coast
++ on that!!

A hub adapter has got to be the single best improvement you can make to a chinagirl!

The rubber donut mounted rear sprocket is a wonderful technique that allows the design to be truly universal.. and it does that.

When you get a suitable hub, the clamshell adapters are FAR superior!
(and that's the time to buy a quality chain)

Then, next in line is a tuned pipe.

:)
rc
 

577-Jersey

New Member
Mar 23, 2013
293
1
0
central western nj
Im sure its a no spark issue,,also might want to remove(un screw) and check the wire that the threaded tip from the spark plug boot cap screws into,,make sure there is enough wire for the contact when screwed in,,if not,cut a 1/4"off and re screw on the cap tight.I solder and heat shrink all my connections,,the connectors are junk from china.

BTW- I agree with 32:1 being the way to go,,if you don't see that little puff of white smoke come out of the muffler when you blip the throttle there is not enough oil in the mix for sufficient top end lubrication IMO.
 
Last edited:

CTripps

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
1,310
1
38
Vancouver, B.C.
Sometimes the position of the throttle also matters a bit starting these motors. Of the three I have in the garage, each likes a different twist on the throttle to fire up.
 

577-Jersey

New Member
Mar 23, 2013
293
1
0
central western nj
Sometimes the position of the throttle also matters a bit starting these motors. Of the three I have in the garage, each likes a different twist on the throttle to fire up.
True,,
Most 2 cycles dont like much throttle at all at start up,,if they get loaded up,,WOT no choke and a few turns will get em going to a smokey start :)

I usually choke em cold,,then wait till they fart once,,then shut off choke and they fire right up.