Has anyone baught from daemonbikes.com?

GoldenMotor.com

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
Myself I replaced the rear mounting studs with grade 5 bolts that I just cut the heads off of and make studs of them, that is a good idea in my opinion because I had issues with the rear studs breaking on me until I made that change, somewhere like a good hardware store or a place like Fasten-All will have what you need, those rear studs are about 75-80mm's long I just bought some 6mm X 100mm bolts and cut them to length, I also replace the machine screw/bolts that hold the clutch cover and sprocket cover on with grade 5 allen-socket head bolts (optional), and I use allen-socket head bolts for the front engine mount instead of the studs that came in the engines I have, by doing this all you need to have as far as tools is a 5mm allen wrench, a 10mm open end boxed end wrench, and a #2 Philips screw driver, on the carb studs pick you up some good quality nylon inserted 6mm lock nuts and I highly suggest that you get you a piece of 1/32" fuel safe gasket material and make you another gasket to go between the intake and the cylinder and apply some gasket sealer to both sides of gasket, I prefer the permatex aviation gasket sealer that comes in a can that has a stem with a brush on it attached to the inside of the lid, it is much better than silicone in my opinion, it actually glues the gasket but stays flexible and seals under heat and pressure much better than silicone, be sure and check the head stud nuts for tightness and use double nuts on the exhaust studs when you mount your muffler also remember to use the blue loctite on every nut and bolt, these little rascals will vibrate the nuts right off in many cases if you don't, I know this all sounds like a lot of info. here but I'm just telling you what I've learned on my engines through trial and error.......so bare with me here and just maybe I can save you some headaches and help you to get off and running without to many mechanical issues.

Go to a parts house or a motorcycle shop and get a NGK B5HS, B6HS or B7HS Spark Plug any of these will work fine, and also go ahead and spend 3-4 bucks and get a NGK spark plug boot I use this one NGK part# LB05EZ this will save you a headache believe me, the ones that normally come with the motors dont last long at all just a few miles in my case on 2 motors before they came apart on me.

Now another very important thing is....when you mount the engine at the rear which will be on the upright tubing that the seat post is in make sure that the rear engine spacer that goes up against the tube is flush and flat against the upright tube no gap at bottom or at top if not it will put a bind on your rear mounting studs when you tighten them and most likely the engine will become loose and/or break the studs, this is very important so don't overlook this one. now if you have a drill and a small drill bit set you will want to perform this little very important tweak to the chain tensioner once you get it in place and you know the tensioner is where it needs to be with the chain roller in it's lowest position so it can be raised to take up the slack as the chain stretches and the sprockets wear in, the pic below shows what I'm suggesting you do to your tensioner where it clamps around the frame, now keep in mind your tensioner will not look like the one in the pic because this is one I rigged up for the latest bike I put together, but the lower part will be very similar and you will see what you will need to do, this will keep the tensioner from rotating inward and getting into your spokes on the wheel, imagine what this would be like @ about 30mph.....! not good.....! all you will need is one small self tapping sheet metal screw and you will drill a small whole through the tension bracket and the bike frame just large enough for the screw to thread into, this will eliminate the chance for the tensioner to rotate inward and make a big mess of things and possibly get you hurt in the process.

I know this is a lot of jabbering but if you will follow these directions when you go together with your bike it will sure give you a better and much more dependable set up.
Good luck and I wish you lots of fun safe miles in the future on your bike.

Shan
oh man thanks alot! this info will be really useful when I start putting things together. I actually bought a NGK B5HS spark plug before getting my kit because I read before that the plugs given with the kits aren't very good. I also got a Offset Intake Manifold for my carb because the bike I'm using probably isn't going to have enough room for the carb to fit in, I've seen a pic of someone motorizing a bike like mine before and they did something weird to the carb to make it fit but I figured I'd save me that hassle and just get a offset intake manifold. I'm probably going to go to my local hardware and auto shop to get those parts you mentioned as well. thanks again, I'm certainly prepared for my first build haha
 

Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
6,237
20
38
N.M.
Geez pleaze put spaces between the lines guy's? My eyes are glazed over by the second sentence.
 
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bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
sooo.. I got my engine in.. and I have to say I'm pretty excited. I've had to make custom motor mounts already (hack-sawed a piece of metal and drilled holes in it) even the 'universal' motor mount conversion was too small because my tubing is so over-sized. The screws at the bottom of the engine were too long so I hack sawed them short as well, so with the motor mounting process coming to a close I've also been taking into account that there is not enough room to fit the carb, which I expected. I ordered an Offset Intake Manifold from spooky tooth cycles after I ordered my engine, however it hasn't come in yet, which I'm getting kinda impatient over, maybe I'll make my own Offset Intake Manifold from metal piping.. I guess I'll see. The Gas Tank's screws are way to short, I'm still thinking about how I'm going to get those worked out.. may have to create some more custom mounts (which take eternal with a hack-saw but it's all I can afford right now lol)
Another this is I can't seem to unscrew the plate the covers the sprocket on the engine. They are so tightly screwed in place that the screws are getting damaged when I try and unscrew them. I can't even use my power tool to get them out, Anyone have this problem before?
 

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
2,634
69
48
Ma USA
I had the cover problem also, stripped out the heads what I had to do was I went down to the Ace Hardware and bought an easy out drill bit.

Cheers
 

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
yeah i think i messed up one of my screws, so i was looking at those drill bits, but they say you have to grind the heads down to get it out. How do you get the rest of the screw out?
 

joabthebugman

New Member
Jun 21, 2010
347
0
0
ocoee fla
I have had issues on every engine so far with the cover screws

I just use a screw driver and hammer tap them out
They are screwed in too tight and are way to soft so I replace them with some black black hex heads

looks better and is easier to unscrew later

But even if you bugger the heads up you can still reuse them for now
 

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
I have had issues on every engine so far with the cover screws

I just use a screw driver and hammer tap them out
They are screwed in too tight and are way to soft so I replace them with some black black hex heads

looks better and is easier to unscrew later

But even if you bugger the heads up you can still reuse them for now
cool, i ended up using some oil to get rid of that tension and let it seep in over night and then I took a huge screwdriver so I could get some power behind it and I managed to remove one screw.. So I went to lowes and got one of those screw extractors and drilled holes in the screws and ripped them out using the screw extractors and an wrench.. one of the screw holes threads were messed up and the other one's threads were fine, just the screw was messed up. I got new screws for it (type M6 1.0)

I'm also having trouble getting a pin out of my chain, I've tried punching the pin out, grinding the head down with a file (which doesn't work), got a bicycle chain repair kit which didn't work because the pin and links are bigger than standard bike chains so my chain wouldn't even fit in the device. I've even taken a titanium drill bit to it and tried drilling he pin out but It won't budge.. how do you usually get these pins out? I might have to take it to a bike shop at this rate