New kits at Kings "Ghost Racer 7G"

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vladislav

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Sep 5, 2014
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I am working on my first build using a Micargi Pantera frame.

The basics: Upgraded wheels from Husky with 11g spokes, a SA drum brake on the front which was replaced with a springer fork. I am using the stock tank at the moment though I have an old Pacer moped tank being custom painted by our local tech school kids. I bought a decent leather saddle via ebay.
I went with the new 7g kit from gasbike.net and just started the install.
It is REALLY DIY. No instructions whatsoever, just the pieces and a few bags of bolts...you guess which lengths go where with which washers, etc. It has been maddening. Of course I wanted instant gratification after waiting a month. The first thing I found that ruined my night was that the wide cranks they send don't come with the necessary bottom bracket on which to install them...so I had to order one of those. Second, I started working on the transmission (which is very heavy and appears well-built). Of course there is no key to lock the clutch to the shaft, so I have to find one of those now. Lots of little things about this kit that drive a person crazy.

I have it all out, so if anyone wants pics of the parts, I can provide. In the meantime, here is a pic of my first build as it stands. Any suggestions/criticism/praise appreciated!

 
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knightscape

knightscape

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Jul 29, 2013
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Vladislav, if you get a handy moment, I'd love to see a close up of the crankset that comes with the new kit. That bike's gonna look great when you're done!
 
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vladislav

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Sep 5, 2014
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Here is a picture of the crank set that comes with the kit. Like I said, they must assume you already have a 3-piece bottom bracket, because there isn't one included. You will see in the pic that there was a little bit of surface rust inside one of the cranks, but it isn't a big deal. It came on the slow boat from China.

On a related note, I finally found the crankshaft/woodruff key (whatever you want to call it) that connects the clutch to the shaft. It was MINISCULE, but it works well. I am pleased with the install today. The chain kept popping off, but it was simply a matter of taking out as many links as possible so not much tension needed to be added with the tensioner. The 415 chain seems to work best when it travels most directly back and forth. Also, I had to move the engine as far to the righthand side as possible to bring the belt drive in line with the rear sprocket I will post pictures of the final product when my tank is back from paint. If anyone else has questions about the kit, fire away.

 
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Venice Motor Bikes

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
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I recently bought four of these kits to get back into the 49cc 4-stroke bike game.

Here's a link to see one of the bikes...
https://www.facebook.com/VeniceMoto...2758952788472/772758859455148/?type=1&theater

EDIT... I'd like to add that I'm very impressed with the better quality (& added power) of these new 49cc kits.

I would advise anyone interested in them to get them now while they're still at this low price!! (^)
 
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mctylermore

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Sep 13, 2014
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San Antonio
vladislav said:
Here is a picture of the crank set that comes with the kit. Like I said, they must assume you already have a 3-piece bottom bracket, because there isn't one included. You will see in the pic that there was a little bit of surface rust inside one of the cranks, but it isn't a big deal. It came on the slow boat from China.


Click to expand...
Just opened up my kit tonight and realized that it is missing the shaft for the wide cranks! So ticked off right now. Should've known this deal was too good to be true.

So what did you order and where did you order it from to fix this problem? I really don't want to give gasbike another $60 after pulling this stunt on me but I don't know if I have any other options.
 
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vladislav

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Sep 5, 2014
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This 1-piece to 3-piece conversion kit from Husky Bicycles is your best bet (and by far, the cheapest). It is what I installed.

http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=hb&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=304-113

Now, the only thing to check is what the thread size of your pedals is. My Micargi cruiser bike came with 1/2" pedals and the cranks for the 7g kit are 9/16" (which is more standard). So you may end up buying new pedals as well. I got a set of standard Wellgo pedals for less than 10 bucks. Husky sells them for 6.

http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=hb&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=366-301

Live and learn, friends.

Anyone else want to comment on the performance of the kit so far? My next plan is to upgrade my rear sprocket to the 'lug' style that clamps around the hub rather than the traditional one that clamps to the spokes. I will put in another plug for Husky Bicycles. I upgraded to a drum-brake front wheel from them with 11g spokes and also an 11g spoke rear wheel with a Shimano coaster brake and both work VERY well so far. The bearings are very nice and they spin forever. Heavy duty.
 
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The_Aleman

The_Aleman

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Jul 31, 2008
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vladislav said:
This 1-piece to 3-piece conversion kit from Husky Bicycles is your best bet (and by far, the cheapest). It is what I installed.
Click to expand...
How is that a "best bet"? That's a typical caged bearing adapter, nothing noteworthy whatsoever. You get what you pay for.
Caged bearings are usually crap, especially compared to the cartridge bearings like what SBP sells.

Now, the only thing to check is what the thread size of your pedals is. My Micargi cruiser bike came with 1/2" pedals and the cranks for the 7g kit are 9/16" (which is more standard). So you may end up buying new pedals as well. I got a set of standard Wellgo pedals for less than 10 bucks. Husky sells them for 6.
Click to expand...
Pedals for 1-piece cranks are 1/2", pedals for 3-piece cranks are 9/16", FYI.

Live and learn, friends.
Click to expand...
I can't count how many times I ruined caged bearings just by standing up and pedaling lol
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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The_Aleman said:
How is that a "best bet"? That's a typical caged bearing adapter, nothing noteworthy whatsoever. You get what you pay for.
Caged bearings are usually crap, especially compared to the cartridge bearings like what SBP sells.
Click to expand...
You can get BB axle cartridges anywhere, it's just about how long the shaft is on either side.

The huge difference between 1-piece caged bearing and a cartridge is a cartridge uses needle bearings and enclosed so you never have to dick with them.

It makes little difference to a direct drive build but a world of difference if you jackshaft and transfer motor power through that pedal system.
Nothing beats needle bearings for handling real force.
 
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vladislav

New Member
Sep 5, 2014
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Yikes. Things got a bit testy all of a sudden. My pedals are nothing more than something to rest my feet on with my build. I don't stand up and I don't pedal. I come from the road bike world, so yes of course I know that a bottom bracket with a sealed cartridge is optimal, but I simply don't need one. The basic kit I suggested is the budget option.
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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vladislav said:
Yikes. Things got a bit testy all of a sudden. My pedals are nothing more than something to rest my feet on with my build.
Click to expand...
Naw, not giving you grief, this ceapo kit doesn't even include a wider crank arm shaft so you had to covert your BB yourself.

No biggie, that will put your pedals out wide and they are pretty much just for resting your feet on because in this 7G Ghost Racer the only freewheel is the crappy old style tapered shaft clutch for the 142 FG-01 4-stroke with crappy brass bushing.



Not even a freewheel output sprocket let alone a big pulley freewheel so this will NOT be fun to try an pedal if you run out of gas.

Also note that the solid output sprocket is mounted the old Grubee design way, unless you pull it off and grind the BS bushing you can't move it anywhere.

I'll use the 2 kits I bought eventually but I'm sure not buying any more.
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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The_Aleman said:
Thanks for the pic, KCvale.
Click to expand...
My pleasure, I wanted to take a peak at one anyway.
I'll have more when I actually use one in something.
Looks like it might be a good candidate for a jackshaft build, having that solid 10T output.
Paired with an 18 or 19T jackshaft input, could give some great reduction.

Of course, pedaling with the engine off will still be a PITA lol
Click to expand...
It's already geared lower than any 4G with 20T/100T T-belt and solid 10T output, the 4G 100T's had an 18T freewheel output sprocket and the 80TF's had a solid 10T because the 80T was a freewheel.

The good news is 4-stroke's have a pull start so no pedaling to start it.
Other than that, without a freewheel somewhere besides that bushing held clutch bell it's be hard to pedal.

I hate that clutch, it doesn't take long for that bushing to wear and start sounding like an epileptic monkey in a steal barrel with 2 hammers at idle.
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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knightscape said:
Oh man, you're killin' me with that one... rotfl
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Hehehe, I was laughing typing it.
The sound is actually more like one of those annoying tambourine playing wind up monkey toys on steroids and crack.
And endless clackity-clackity- clack noise that numbs your mind if you idle for too long.
 
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KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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ajoh said:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=37410 hope it helps you bud....
Click to expand...
Spiffy 2 year old topic about the crap bushing but nothing about where to get the parts.



What cracks me up (and pisses me off) is gasbike's description says it a 5/8" straight shaft and it's not.

All I know is I don't see any good way to make it better than maybe some sort of dry lube like graphite on the bushing.

'clackety-clackety clack clack'...
It's 'talk like a pirate week' so good, ARRRggghhh matie, walk that scurvy dog clutch off the plank!


(Note the rabid monkey with symbols in the background).
Almost poetic right?
heheheh ;-}
 
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