Gutting the muffler and headlight, tail lights..

GearNut said:

Daytime running lights are a good idea.

Click to expand...

Totaly agree
As car drivers sometimes dont even notice my bicycle riding by
Or they have a quick look and think "its only a bicycle going slow"
And i have had to slame my brakes on to avoid a crash

(Also a airzone air horn are a must for these bikes)


I am planing to buy another set
So i will have 112 Flashing leds

G'day matesrates.
To determine if the white wire is suitable for your purpose, you need to work out how much current the lights consume. It seems that no more than 3W can be drawn from the white wire and that even then it affects engine performance.
My guess is that your lights will consume too much power.
Do you have a multimeter?

To use the white wire, you'll also need a rectifier diode to convert from AC to DC, then at least a 3W Zener diode, (~4.7V or 5.1V for 3 x batteries), as a shunt to regulate the voltage, or else a series current-limiting resistor for a trickle charge. (Not suitable for continuous light usage.)

I'm in the midst of fitting a 100W generator to mine, with an 18W/18W x 2 dual headlight, capable of going 18W-36W-54W-72W, powered by a 12V 5Ah SLA battery mounted under the tank. (I'll normally use 18W as 'low' and 36W as 'high'.)

Sing out if I can help more.

I also regularly get cars coming at me through 'STOP' signs, thinking I'm doing 20kph and not 40kph, hence the extra-bright lighting.

On an aside, which part of Sydney are you from? I'm in Nowra.

Actually, I realized that since diodes are used to make rectifier circuits, why couldn't we just connect a Light Emitting Diode (LED) flashlight directly to the white wire and ground?

I bought a pair of 3W 4.5VDC Energizer LED flashlights in a 2-pack for ~$20 from Sam's Club a couple years ago and drilled a hole in one for the wires to go out. I removed the 3-AAA cell guts from the light and soldered an extension wire between the LED (+) terminal on the LED circuit board and soldered another wire to the circuit board (-) terminal and ran that wire into the spring inside the bottom cap of the flashlight (so that I can use the switch to turn it off and on). I ran another wire from the spring in the bottom cap and terminated to the bicycle frame, for ground.

This setup works very nicely. The LEDs pulsate at idle and brighten/stop pulsating when throttling the engine. Bright enough that I wouldn't fear riding in the dark and I'm even thinking of branching another light off the white wire and putting a red lens on it, for the rear... The light only uses 250mA @ 4.5VDC, so I'm not at all concerned about over-driving the magneto.

AussieSteve said:

G'day matesrates.
To determine if the white wire is suitable for your purpose, you need to work out how much current the lights consume. It seems that no more than 3W can be drawn from the white wire and that even then it affects engine performance.
My guess is that your lights will consume too much power.
Do you have a multimeter?

To use the white wire, you'll also need a rectifier diode to convert from AC to DC, then at least a 3W Zener diode, (~4.7V or 5.1V for 3 x batteries), as a shunt to regulate the voltage, or else a series current-limiting resistor for a trickle charge. (Not suitable for continuous light usage.)

I'm in the midst of fitting a 100W generator to mine, with an 18W/18W x 2 dual headlight, capable of going 18W-36W-54W-72W, powered by a 12V 5Ah SLA battery mounted under the tank. (I'll normally use 18W as 'low' and 36W as 'high'.)

Sing out if I can help more.

I also regularly get cars coming at me through 'STOP' signs, thinking I'm doing 20kph and not 40kph, hence the extra-bright lighting.

On an aside, which part of Sydney are you from? I'm in Nowra.

Click to expand...

Hey steve
Thanks for the reply
I have a mutimeter how do i test the current out of white wire????
Your setup sounds sweet have you got any pictures??
You sould connect a horn to that generator????
I'm in Windsor

CoastalCruiser said:

Way back When, JC Whitney used to sell a "butterfly" that shunted the exhaust away from the muffler run and straight out the side. It used a like a choke cable to actuate it. They're illegal now.

Click to expand...

They still sell it, it's called a "exhaust cutout": Cast-Iron Exhaust Cutout - JCWhitney



BUT it won't do a dang thing 'cept irritate the heck outa ppl as it's a four-stroke toy, two smokers really do need not only some backpressure, but a tuned, timed pulse - thus the expansion chamber/tuned pipe available for 'em

While the kit muffler can be unduly restritive, it's pretty much a waste of time trying to mod it given the major power gains with an expansion chamber - as pocket bike systems are plentiful & so inexpensive, there's little point in running an open pipe on a two stroke particularly given you'll run lean as the fuel/air charge will escape the combustion chamber before ignition (making it even louder as well as a waste of potential power) *shrug*


Tho... I can't deny something like the above may be amusing on my four-stroker build... hmm... *evil grin*