4 stroke clutch adjustment

jacliny · Apr 11, 2009

Does anyone know how to have the clutch engage at a higher rpm on a china 4 stroke (dont know how to spell it! I think its pronounced washing like the machine! lol) with a grubee gearbox? Mine engages at a complete idle, even when pull starting it slightly engages. Needless to say its almost unrideable! When you engage the gearbox i have it idling so low it stalls and if i boost up the idle it then crashes in horribly then stalls! Well, thanks guys ahead of time i'm sure someone will have the answer.

toytime · Apr 11, 2009

Is it possible that the little wieghts inside the clutch need a little lube? Could they be stuck in "on" mode?

Dan · Apr 11, 2009

Have the same problem. At bare idle, tries to jump and jiggle forward. The clutch is engaging to early. I am sure their is an easy fix, but have not found it yet. Will be hard on the clutch as is.

glacknoid · Apr 11, 2009

I think some people have tried lightering up the three sections of the clutch by drilling some holes in each of the three pie pieces to lighten them up so the centrufugal force doesnt open them up as easily.

Dan · Apr 11, 2009

odd, off topic and bizzar question, which way did every ones clutch come facing? Mine is with the springs turned outward. Also according to Grubee website, there are supposed to be ball bearings in the mounts on either side of each gear. I have found none.

LOL, clutch is completely no go now. but engine sounds much happier, lol, snork, snork.
(where is that gun?)

glacknoid · Apr 11, 2009

I put both mine on clutch spring faceing in towards the engine Jeremy from bicycle-engines told me plus I think the photo in my instructions showed it that way. I believe the inside half of the gearbox houseing that mount to the motor has one bearing for the middle gear and the outside half has two with bearings for the middle and final gear. They should be sealed bearings pressed into the houseing for the shaft on the gears to ride in.

glacknoid · Apr 11, 2009

MY first grubee puchased oct 2008 does the same thing with my honda, it keeps trying to engage the clutch bell at idle. Don Grubee emailed me saying the honda engine idles at a higher rpm than the HS motor and the clutch garter spring was designed to engage at 1800 to 2000 rpm, which was low for the honda. I just recieved another grubee a month ago for a different bike, but I have'nt ran it enough to be sure since I havent' mounted it on a bike yet but it may have a stronger garter spring or be weighted different but it doesn't seem as chattery but I'll have to pay more attention next time I fire it up.

Dan · Apr 11, 2009

glacknoid said:
I put both mine on clutch spring faceing in towards the engine Jeremy from bicycle-engines told me plus I think the photo in my instructions showed it that way. I believe the inside half of the gearbox houseing that mount to the motor has one bearing for the middle gear and the outside half has two with bearings for the middle and final gear. They should be sealed bearings pressed into the houseing for the shaft on the gears to ride in.

Very, very cool Glack, thank you. (I can stop looking for the gun now)

You think replacing the clutch with an adjustable one would work? I might write Maxtorque and ask if they have sold any for this purpose. Really like them. Great customer service and advise.

glacknoid · Apr 11, 2009

not sure about the adjustable one

cityevader · Apr 12, 2009

IT'S NOT THE CLUTCHES!!!!

I've been meaning to post my issues, and forgot to get pics while fixing. The problem is there are no bearings between the clutch bell housing and the engine shaft.

The design is ludicrous because there is bare metal to metal with no lubrication whatsoever, and whenever the clutches are not engaged (idle, coasting) the crankshaft is spinning and clutch bell is not and metal-on-metal rubbing heats/binds.
Remove the bolt that holds the clutch onto crankshaft. Remove the clutch bell with crank diameter "adapter" and clean/lube where they spin and rub together. Repeat in a few hours of use when it starts acting up again.

glacknoid · Apr 12, 2009

I wish there was a sealed bearing that would fit over the shaft and seat into the bell so when it did Idle it would be quieter and with no wear.

cityevader · Apr 12, 2009

Even if it was only a proper bushing it would be better (a la pilot bushing in a car's manual tranny). It's hard to believe they overlooked this important detail.

Dan · Apr 13, 2009

glacknoid said:
I wish there was a sealed bearing that would fit over the shaft and seat into the bell so when it did Idle it would be quieter and with no wear.

That's an awesome idea Glack, and could be done with a new clutch and bearing.

glacknoid · Apr 13, 2009

I suppose the center of the sealed bearing like the ones that come mounted in the gear box would have to have a center hole that would fit snug on the shaft of the engine and the outside would have to seat snug down into the clutch bell. Maybe with a metal lathe someone could mill their shaft and bell to make one for their own kit that would work.

bobdirt · Apr 15, 2009

The bushing in the grubee clutch is very common and can be found on better clutches.
The easy fix is to drill and access hole near the bushing a shot of grease or oil when you feel it want to stick. I will break 10,000 mi sometime in July

glacknoid · Apr 15, 2009

Is the whinning sound comeing from the sound of the gears meshing under force? I wish there was a better way to dampen the sound. I put a lot of grease in the gear box and it either got on the clutch and caused slippage or just got flung off onto the exterior of the gearbox and I was useing thick green greese. I'm not sure where to place the grease before assembly to maximize usefullness without it makeing it's way through the holes in the clutch bell and onto the clutch pads.

cityevader · Apr 15, 2009

I packed in thick/sticky wheel bearing grease as much as I could behind the gears, then all over the teeth, and bunch more in lower half of cover before reassembling. I used about 1/3 of a can of bearing grease (approx 4" diameter can 4"tall from car parts store) and it is much much quieter now. It doesn't get up in the clutch at all. I did experience a tiny bit of slippage, but that was from grease flinging out from between the questionable bushing and bell.

glacknoid · Apr 16, 2009

are the holes in the clutch bell necessary for cooling to disperse clutch pad dust? If not they let greese in when I put a lot in. I might have to try again and pack it more strategicly.

jacliny · Apr 27, 2009

ok, so how do you get the clutch bell off after removing the retainer bolt. Mine won't budge.

bobdirt · Apr 27, 2009

The clutch normaly slide off easy if not slide a screwdriver behind clutch and gently pry making sure to keep clutch even as it comes off should that not work you will need a gear puller.

4 stroke clutch adjustment

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