attempt #3

nightcruiser · Jul 11, 2012

JB weld in the studs on a new motor? That doesn't sound right. Personally I would never use JB weld to lock a good stud unto solid threads, I would use red loctite instead. Perhaps if the threads were stripped already some might use JB Weld to affix the stud, but I would go in the direction you had suggested, the time sert or helicoil repair. Not sure if you could tap it out to the next size stud (probably standard thread) without drilling the hole in the head and jug? Maybe somebody has done this already and knows what works or not?? That said, I would wait to hear back from the retailer about the situation.
I certainly sympathize with you about wanting to ride... But this begs a question. If this is the third motor you have that has failed do you possibly have enough parts to build up one good motor and ride?

lambofgod121980 · Jul 11, 2012

nightcruiser said:
I certainly sympathize with you about wanting to ride... But this begs a question. If this is the third motor you have that has failed do you possibly have enough parts to build up one good motor and ride?

Funny you should say that - I am doing sugery on the first two to hopefully have a single complete motor at this moment

Ran into an issue and was comming here to post my question when I saw your reply \m/

Any way - how do you take the clutch off completly? The big ring and all
Thanks

nightcruiser · Jul 11, 2012

Here is a tear down thread...
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=391&highlight=complete+tear+down

lambofgod121980 · Jul 11, 2012

Thanks for the link. I had found it a little while ago and sugery is finished - I have 1 complete engine out of the first two \m/ I will be swapping it out for the new one I just got and post an update as to how it goes - got alarm set for stoopid early as I am once again excited to get crackin so I can ride while I'm off tomorrow \m/ dance1

lambofgod121980 · Jul 12, 2012

Well, I have the frankenstein engine bolted up and am ready to take it for test run..... Now if the rain would just stop. Hahahahahaha I guess I'm just not meant to ride today XD

lambofgod121980 · Jul 12, 2012

Update - not to shabby for a frankenstein engine. Had problem with magneto. Its the one that came from the bgf motor. It looked perfect and I can see no indications that its broken anywhere. Luckily I had a spare and have it swapped out. \m/

Caught a break in the rain and got it fired up and let it idle for a few mins before shutting it down. When I get another break in the rain ill recheck torque and take it for a test spin \m/ I soooooooo can't wait dance1

nightcruiser · Jul 12, 2012

Congrats on your success man, hope you get a break in the rain and your bike holds solid..... Happy riding....

dragray · Jul 12, 2012

e-bay...boy go fast.
pretty much all of the china engines are the same junk.....don't beleive everything you read because most of the 2 stroke engines come from the same place in china.
the "name brand" engines are just re-packaged china engines that every other dealer gets, and they slap a decal on them claiming them to be better than the rest.
now, in some instances, dealers claim to have better bearings installed and stuff like that, but i personally think that's all part of a marketing ploy to get more money out of the buyers.
why pay $250.00 (or more) for a "name brand" engine when you can pretty much get the same engine for $125.00 - $150.00 off e-bay?
I have 2 boy go fast engines and they've been running strong for goingon 4 years now.
the trick is to know when to leave things alone because things on these engines will break easy. know how to tune the carb, put on a better exhaust, select the right gear ratio for your riding style, add an ngk spark plug, an automotive spark plug wire, high flow air filter and make sure you add the right ratio of fuel-oil every time.
no matter where you buy an engine from, there will be lemons....you can't avoid that.
but seriously, they're all pretty much the same thing no matter who you buy it from.

lambofgod121980 · Jul 12, 2012

New update - got break I was looking for \m/ took it out and motor is now running great at low- mid rpms. Never seems to wind out tho. Ill have to do a little research and see if I can figure out why it would do this. Its still solid tho and vibrations are minimum. Took it through the trail by my house and didn't have any huge issues. Had tensioner problem but I made a trip to the hardware store and replaced the bolts and added a washer or two inbetween the roller and the plate it rides on to push it more inward toward the wheel. Not sure what caused it since I have had no issue with it previously. Washers seem to be doing the trick\m/ haven't strayed too far from the house yet but once I'm confident and work out a few more bugs imma make a trip to town and she how she rides on longer trips.
Speedometer is also trashed. It broke the thing that catches the spokes and turns the little wheel inside the plastic housing so I have no idea what I'm really running but it feels slow - maybe 15-20 or so top end. Down hill maybe mid - upper 20s. I'm running a 41 tooth sprocket atm and a 20in rear wheel.
Overall I am happy. Mainly cuz I can atleast ride again. Had a few people pull me over and ask what the heck I was riding on lol. I tried to convince them to build their own so I got some people here to ride with. Haven't seen another one of these around here yet.

donphantasmo · Jul 12, 2012

that's awesome, man. Glad to see that things are working out. Also, check for carb tuning. That might be why you're not getting over 20.
Just take it easy first, though. Your engine is still being broke in. Give it a couple of tanks before you wind her out. I'm sure you will go well over 30 when you're done (with a 40-41 tooth sprocket).
Have fun with your build, man. Enjoy it.

nightcruiser · Jul 12, 2012

Congrats on your success!
If your bike frame is round where you have the tensioner mounted I would keep a good eye on it, you don't want it to slip and rotate into the spokes. My bike has oval tubes at that point so there was very little chance it would have happened to me, but I did away with the tensioner long ago and am much happier since it's gone...
At any rate, if you have a standard tensioner on a round tube make sure it's solid and keep an eye on it! I hate reading the "My tensioner went in my spokes" threads....

lambofgod121980 · Jul 13, 2012

Omg - if I could rate duane on scale of 1 to 10 he would get a 20. He is sending me new bottom end to fix the motor I have stripped head stud on. He was also once again willing to answer any questions I had and also told me that 120 in lbs is too much torque for these motors. Was told to be lighter. For him to send me new bottom end free of charge is way beyond what anyone else has done and ill continue to try and get my parts from thatsdax. Kudos duane

nightcruiser · Jul 13, 2012

lambofgod121980 said:
Omg - if I could rate duane on scale of 1 to 10 he would get a 20. He is sending me new bottom end to fix the motor I have stripped head stud on. He was also once again willing to answer any questions I had and also told me that 120 in lbs is too much torque for these motors. Was told to be lighter. For him to send me new bottom end free of charge is way beyond what anyone else has done and ill continue to try and get my parts from thatsdax. Kudos duane

See how things have a way of working out? You got your rat motor put together and DAX is gonna set you up with a new bottom end for your new motor, life is good! ...and now you got a spare...
I have read that the HIGHEST torque to use on aluminum is 145in lbs, I have some notes where I keep my torque specs that I have been using, can't seem to put my finger on them, but the head bolts are higher than the rest and they are all quite a bit less than 145 in lbs for sure. Do you mind sharing what Duane recommended as the proper torque to use for the head and other bolts on these HT motors?

lambofgod121980 · Jul 13, 2012

He didn't give me a torque spec - lowest my torque wrench goes is 120. He said that was too much and to just snug them up
I have seen torque specs from 120 to 240 on aluminim. Case isn't aluminum tho its a cast alloy

nightcruiser · Jul 13, 2012

lambofgod121980 said:
He didn't give me a torque spec - lowest my torque wrench goes is 120. He said that was too much and to just snug them up
I have seen torque specs from 120 to 240 on aluminim. Case isn't aluminum tho its a cast alloy

I'm pretty sure the torque specs I was using were from a "before you build" guide that is posted here, somewhere... I dug through a bunch of papers and still cant seem to put my finger on it... I kinda think I was doing 85 in lb on the smaller studs and 120 in lb on the head, but I can't remember for sure, thats why I wish I could find that sheet (to verify I was doing right). I didn't have a problem but want to make sure I have it right. As for the "just snug" spec, that doesn't really work for me. Some people might not tighten enough, and others may not realize it but will tighten way too much.
The first year I didn't use loctite, I used the hand "snug" technique. After the first ride I had to re-snug most of the nuts and bolts, then after the second ride, and the fifth ride, and on and on forever. Eventually stripped out (original) mounting studs due to constant torquing. This year I put in a stud kit from SickBikeParts, put the studs in with red loctite for the head/exhaust/intake, then used blue loctite on the nuts. I torqued them down with the torque wrench using whatever specs from my "missing" paper/build guide and so far nothing has come loose. I've kept and eye on how much the mounting studs protrude from the nuts and nothing has changed so I haven't touched them since I mounted the motor. I know I have said that before, and I think you are not a fan of loctite, I mention it again only because this method has worked out MUCH better for me this year than last....
I had one of the big old needle torque wrenches which was completely useless, so I bought a new one specifically to use on the MB. I bought it from Amazon, not saying is a top quality tool, but it does the job for me really well. It has a small 1/4" drive and a head like a regular socket wrench (small so it fits into places). The range to 20 - 200 in lb which is perfect for working on a mb. Here's a link so you can visualize what I am talking about...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P91OXI/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_3p_dp_1

lambofgod121980 · Jul 13, 2012

nightcruiser said:
I'm pretty sure the torque specs I was using were from a "before you build" guide that is posted here, somewhere... I dug through a bunch of papers and still cant seem to put my finger on it... I kinda think I was doing 85 in lb on the smaller studs and 120 in lb on the head, but I can't remember for sure, thats why I wish I could find that sheet (to verify I was doing right). I didn't have a problem but want to make sure I have it right. As for the "just snug" spec, that doesn't really work for me. Some people might not tighten enough, and others may not realize it but will tighten way too much.
The first year I didn't use loctite, I used the hand "snug" technique. After the first ride I had to re-snug most of the nuts and bolts, then after the second ride, and the fifth ride, and on and on forever. Eventually stripped out (original) mounting studs due to constant torquing. This year I put in a stud kit from SickBikeParts, put the studs in with red loctite for the head/exhaust/intake, then used blue loctite on the nuts. I torqued them down with the torque wrench using whatever specs from my "missing" paper/build guide and so far nothing has come loose. I've kept and eye on how much the mounting studs protrude from the nuts and nothing has changed so I haven't touched them since I mounted the motor. I know I have said that before, and I think you are not a fan of loctite, I mention it again only because this method has worked out MUCH better for me this year than last....
I had one of the big old needle torque wrenches which was completely useless, so I bought a new one specifically to use on the MB. I bought it from Amazon, not saying is a top quality tool, but it does the job for me really well. It has a small 1/4" drive and a head like a regular socket wrench (small so it fits into places). The range to 20 - 200 in lb which is perfect for working on a mb. Here's a link so you can visualize what I am talking about...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P91OXI/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_3p_dp_1

Lol - I probably should have just ordered me a torque wrench and socket set for my bike. All the sockets I'm using are 3/8 drive so I ran to autoparts store and picked up only in lb torque wrench they had which has 120 in lbs lowest setting and each to the marks in the handle are in 1lb incraments, next number up from the 120 setting is 240 yikes! I didn't wanna have to pay shipping and then wait nother week to work on my bike. I will deffinately be investing in a 1/4 inch ratchet/socket set.

And as far as a spare goes - ha - I already am planning another bike build using a giant cruiser frame I saw - think it was 29in bike \m/ >.< \m/ I plan on doing the same kind of rear wheel conversion ( replacing stock 29in wheel with a smaller 26-24in wheel) to give it more rake and swap out reg forks for tripple tree style. I hope to build a custom tank so it will have a chopper feel. Then ill have my street cruiser to look cool and my trail bike to abuse in the woods \m/ may even try out a shift kit and see how I like it on new bike.... To be continued

lambofgod121980 · Jul 15, 2012

Went for a decently long ride today. Rained early and turned into a beautiful day. Did my pre ride check and after tightening chain tensioner cruised the neighborhood to make sure I was good and took off for town. Bike ran great low to mid rpms but just will not wind out. Pulled the plug and its a beautiful chocolate color. Top out feels like low 20s. I'm wondering if 20in rear is too much for the engine. Anyone else have a bike running 20in wheels? How is your top end speed and can you get it to wind out?

I'm going to search around and see what I can dig up

dragray · Jul 15, 2012

yep, I'm running 20" wheels on my low rider, with a 22" tall slick and a 41 tooth sprocket. 49 cc 2 stroke, expansion chamber, ngk plug, accell plug wire and a high flow air filter. top speed is around 25-27 mph.
on my occ chopper, 20" rear wheel, 24" tall tire, 66 cc 2 stroke, 41 tooth sprocket, high flow exhaust, ngk. plug, accell plug wire & high flow filter. top speed is around 30-32 mph.
I weigh 160 pounds.
rear tire height can add or subtract top speed. a taller tire will give you a little more speed, a shorter tire will give you less speed.

lambofgod121980 · Jul 15, 2012

Thanks man exactly what I was looking for. I don't have a nice exhaust yet and after looking at mine I'm seeing a screw missing on the side. I wonder if its clogged. Thinking imma grind the tack welds holding the cap on and see what if anything falls out. Might even gut it. I'm totally unconcerned about noise ( most 4 wheel drive vehicles around here are stoopid loud so I can't be much louder if at all). Anything I shold know before doing the gutting of kit mufflers?

dragray · Jul 15, 2012

lambofgod121980 said:
Thanks man exactly what I was looking for. I don't have a nice exhaust yet and after looking at mine I'm seeing a screw missing on the side. I wonder if its clogged. Thinking imma grind the tack welds holding the cap on and see what if anything falls out. Might even gut it. I'm totally unconcerned about noise ( most 4 wheel drive vehicles around here are stoopid loud so I can't be much louder if at all). Anything I shold know before doing the gutting of kit mufflers?

well, inside the kit muffler, you'll find the baffle and the baffle plate. All i did with mine was drill 2 holes (approx 3/16" )in the baffle plate. I out the baffle plate back in and it made a good difference in the way it runs.
it;s louder than stock but noy obnoxious.
you'll also find a cateletic thing up inside the muffler close to the head pipe.
THAT'S what clogs up & you'll see what when you pull it out.
I removed mine and left it out....it;s just a trap for oil to collect on.
here's what my chopper sounds like with holes drilled in the baffle plate.
of corse, i have a long pipe, so it may sound different with a short pipe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ry-Sjb_HQao

here's my lowrider with the expansion chamber and a modified stock muffler. same thing, i just drilled 2 holes in the baffle plate and put the baff;e back in the muffler. On both biles, i stuffed the baffle / end cap up inside the pipe so you can't see them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lj3b_RxFv0M

attempt #3

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