Cool new Mounting idea

Hmmm... hide a friction drive in a case of beer on the rear rack? Must go buy a case of beer to investigate this idea...

Big
Hi & welcome. Nice looking bike. My first suggestion, put a front caliper brake on off most any bike. It will bolt on using the hole at the bottom of fork head tube. May be able to find one that will clear the fender, maybe use washer`s on brake pads for fender clearance if needed.

What type of motor and mount are you thinking? The plastic milk cartons are big enough and breathe good for engine cooling. Line the inside with vision blocking materal where needed, the lid should baffle enough of the noise. Just thoughts I have had for builds.

Good luck, enjoy your build. Ron .

Big

you may be able to use the type of front brake that works on your fork on the rear also. The cross brace behind the seat has a hole in the center, may be a fender brace bolted to it.

That hole may be too far away from the rim, an adapter could be made from a short piece of flat stock with two holes to position the brake calipur.

A thumb throttle with a dual brake lever would be nice, they are quailty items and safe, used on atv now. About $15. W/free sh on ebay. I have 5 of them, would not have anything else. Mho

ron

Big

just a thought, you could use a friction drive looking channel. Mount the motor on top with a small gear box for needed gear reduction to a jackshaft using the bearings that are located for the friction roller.

Some friction drives use 1/2" roller shaft others use 5/8" shaft. Both bearings are 1 & 3/8" od. I have the part #`s. Most jackshafts are 5/8", easier to get different size sprockets. Belt drive may be easier at 1/2" shaft.


"bike motor parts", the new owner should be up and running soon. Their $49. Double jack shaft channel mount may have some options for you.

Run a belt to a whizzer sheave bolted onto your spokes. That will be the easiest with your coaster brake wheel. Belt is cleaner, quieter and may out last chain. Fan belts run for years on cars with spring tensioners.

Spring loaded belt tensioner is very good, and a lot eaiser on spokes and everything else. Full floating and self aligning = the way i like things.

Sprocket/chain and some pulley/belt systems have a tight loose charactoristic during each cycle of rotation. The spring loaded tensioners solve all that. As long as a builder does not use too strong of a spring.

Just my thoughts, not trying to be pushy. I know in the beginning it is hard to decide, too many options!!

What size is stamped on the tires, how wide are your rims?

If you want something very dependable use the double jack shaft motor mount for your gear reduction, no gear box needed then. Parts left out never break. I was going to order the parts for a double belt drive, but they are down until june was posted on the web site. I think you can type in "bike motor parts.com" and look at the parts on the website.

A housing can be bought that has a clutch drum, double shaft support bearings and bell housing that bolts on many popular motors and will accept a sprocket or pulley. The motor belt is run to a pulley on one side giving you some gear reduction there. The the belt on the other side gives more reductions.. The belt or chain going to the rear wheel can be under, in side the channel.

This is much simplier than it sounds. I have a neat 49cc kawasaki with the belt housing, will edit in a pic tomorrow. I have pics of bmp stuff if the web site is not up. I have pics of the pulley drive on my hard drive, but have posted them already, you can not post the same pics twice.

So many of the things sold are troublesome. As a senior, when i hammer something together i want it to last. If it is troublesome, i get my "bfh" out and cure it. Lol

ron

Big

the thumb throttles have a idle adjustment and a full throttle stop so the throttle cable does not over=pull on the carb shaft & lever. Also has a brake lite switch with a couple feet of wire harness. Yummy!

Ron

Heres ya an easy one to box. Use a different muffler, maybe relocate the tank. Its an FD and the only thing visable would be the twist grip throttle or use a thumb throttle built from on old shifter. I use a rubber roller and its very easy on the tires. The drive would be completely hidden.

Whoops forgot the pics!

It's been done a number of ways. I liked this with twin baskets on the rear.

Cannonball

That is a serious fd ! Have been watching your build, Is that fresh paint dry yet ? lol Thanks for the pm awhile back, appreciated it. Yeah, the thumb shifter would a sleeper option.

Your hf 79cc should pull you along at low rpm with a nice purring sound. Your muffler made me smile, looks neat, like it was born there.

Hi Happy, Was thinking the basket would be a good way also. But the po po here don`t give me a second glance so far. Need a pair of large saddle baskets with mud flaps to cover my diy axle mount. Got a dis about my diy axle mount yesterday! It pushed me into rant mode! lol

Ron

Yeah I know what you mean, my answer to the chain thing was apparently removed! This set up could be easily modded to belt drive by turning the engine around and extending the jack shaft to turn a pulley and belt to a Whizzer sheeve. Thats a killer bike to build around.

Bigbrag said:

That looks real sharp cannonball. I like that you used an hf engine. That would keep the cost of things down. What all parts did you need to connect the friction drive to the engine? Was it a kit, and do you have links? Thanks

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This is all DIY, easy build actually, Pillow bearings, jackshaft, clutch and pulleys, and some angle iron. The explanation of the roller construction is in DIY, under "cheap and easy roller", the build on the bike is there too. Mine is welded but it woud just as easily bolt together. The engine could be pulled in some too to make it more compact. Am adding a variable driven pulley soon to be able to easily change roller ratio. Speed range will be from 23-30 real mph.

Am thinking that the hf type engine`s will continue to replace the trouble-some motor`s. The lower price most likely helps also.

That is a nice clean looking build cannon, 2 inch roller?

Thinking that Elmo got aw-sum fuel milage and high speed with his hf build.

Ron

NEAT TIMES said:

Am thinking that the hf type engine`s will continue to replace the trouble-some motor`s. The lower price most likely helps also.

That is a nice clean looking build cannon, 2 inch roller?

Thinking that Elmo got aw-sum fuel milage and high speed with his hf build.

Ron

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Thanks Ron, yeah a 2" roller. This is the only HF engine I have, so hope it hangs together, so far so good. I have two Lifan 2.5hp also and they are great engine also. Fuel mileage should be next to incredible. The little HF(Greyhound) engines are all but gone or close to it. Homedepot has the Lifans for $109 shipped. These are a little bit more torquey being 97cc.

Bought a chrome stretch cruiser with ape hanger`s and the 68 -72 spoke wheel`s for $50 couple yrs ago. Would like the sitting closer to mother earth. Have waited on building it, as i like my cvt and shifter builds . Now with the comet cvt and a harbor freight motor build`s hitting the scene it will be and easy build and sweet machine. 55 yrs ago or so, they called harley rider`s = "tractor drivers" and "hog rider`s" have not heard the tractor driver name for a long time.

Had my first harley in 1953, a 1936 with the 80 cid flat head motor. Paid $20. And many of the motor parts came in two wooden nail kegs. Bought one used pistom for $5. At the harley dealer.

Jim makes that special sprocket for the wheel (only on size tooth count at present) may get proper ratio by changing the comet driven sprocket? The bb is way up front also.

Did remove the banana seat and install a front calipur brake. One member told me it would not work because of the pivoting front fork. He did not think it through ! Lol.

Ron