Faster and better?

GoldenMotor.com

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
How many miles does the engine have on it? Less that 200? Give it some time to break in before adding go-fast parts. You might be surprised at how much better it will perform with a few miles on it. Typically we suggest 200 to 300 miles before they are considered 'broken in'.

What fuel to oil ratio are you running? If you're using the 16:1 suggested by the instruction manual that's too much oil. Drop the mix down to at least 24:1 or even 32:1 and see if that doesn't give you a little more power.

Tom
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
The pipe will help, but personally, I think the carb is a waste of money. The stock carb is perfectly adequate for this engine and pipe and is simple to jet.
If your engine is brand new, wait until it is fully broken-in to start messing with it. The chinagirls need several hundred miles to wake up and work right. I usually set the needle clip second slot from the top and just ride it like I stole it.
You want slight four-stroking when cruising and clean pull under throttle.
This is the best jetting for these engines to get a long useful life.
Jetting for max power is risky and expensive. You want every last mph?, get a Morini or KTM clone.
 

allen standley

Well-Known Member
Oct 22, 2011
1,126
238
63
Bangor, Maine
The pipe will help, but personally, I think the carb is a waste of money. The stock carb is perfectly adequate for this engine and pipe and is simple to jet.
If your engine is brand new, wait until it is fully broken-in to start messing with it. The chinagirls need several hundred miles to wake up and work right. I usually set the needle clip second slot from the top and just ride it like I stole it.
You want slight four-stroking when cruising and clean pull under throttle.
This is the best jetting for these engines to get a long useful life.
Jetting for max power is risky and expensive. You want every last mph?, get a Morini or KTM clone.
Yeah thumbs up on the pipe my son has one on his bike. As for the speed can't advise. maniac57 is dead on spot. don't change anything just yet.
 

sniperxfire

New Member
Mar 6, 2013
29
0
0
Canada
How many miles does the engine have on it? Less that 200? Give it some time to break in before adding go-fast parts. You might be surprised at how much better it will perform with a few miles on it. Typically we suggest 200 to 300 miles before they are considered 'broken in'.

What fuel to oil ratio are you running? If you're using the 16:1 suggested by the instruction manual that's too much oil. Drop the mix down to at least 24:1 or even 32:1 and see if that doesn't give you a little more power.

Tom
I've had my engine for a week now and i ran it about 2 hours everyday.

@maniac57
Sir what do you mean by jet? Sorry im pretty much new about motorized bicycle and so far all i know is "how to install motor in bicycle". If you dont mind, could you explain me more clear please?
 

mew905

New Member
Sep 24, 2012
647
9
0
Moose Jaw
the jet is a part of the carb that tells it how much gas to add to the air. My advice: dont change the carb yet, as the others said. Wait until it's done breaking in, find where the weaknesses are. I wouldnt go with that pipe either, I've heard more bad reviews than good. the SBP has the most good reviews I've heard. You, being in Canada, are going to get charged an arm an a leg for shipping anywhere but speeddemon. Avoid the banana expansion pipe too. Do you have fabrication skills and tools? Welding and dremel experience are huge pluses in these motors. A lathe, pipe bender, and perhaps a mill (if you go extreme) will be assets, but not required, a lot can be done by hand to boost the power substantially. I actually have a checklist I like to give new modders:

#1: Determine what speed you want to go - set a goal, 80kph is basically the fastest anyone's ever been on these bikes (that I'm aware of). I'm aiming for 100kph as an end-goal but right now I'm shooting for 80 for safe-ish highway travels

#2: What loads are you planning for? - If you're a heavy dude (say, 250+), plan on hauling alot (maybe you have a bike trailer or a child carrier?), or have to deal with alot of hills, you'll want low end torque and may have to sacrifice top speed, depending on where you want that to be (50kph is commonly though to be the maximum safe speed, beyond that is 'scary', though I constantly rip around at 60, aiming for 80).

#3: Determine your gearing - Your top speed may result in different gearing, it's inadvisable to push these motors past 8500 RPM (about 71kph on a 36T, or 58kph on a 44T) This may also determine if you have to pedal to help it go from a stop. (this is null if you opt for a shift-kit, but I dont like them, if the motor produces too much power it can destroy the derailleur, not to mention adding parts to fail is never a good idea IMO)

#4: Are you aiming for long range or speed? - Obviously this will affect your milage, at 60kph I get around 80mpg, though others have achieved close to 145mpg, but at around 25kph.

All of these are comprimises through which you'll have to decide where you want to be, #4 will be set marginally by your carb jet, however it can affect the first 3. For example, running lean may net you more power and gas milage, but you may end up running dangerously hot.
 

sniperxfire

New Member
Mar 6, 2013
29
0
0
Canada
the jet is a part of the carb that tells it how much gas to add to the air. My advice: dont change the carb yet, as the others said. Wait until it's done breaking in, find where the weaknesses are. I wouldnt go with that pipe either, I've heard more bad reviews than good. the SBP has the most good reviews I've heard. You, being in Canada, are going to get charged an arm an a leg for shipping anywhere but speeddemon. Avoid the banana expansion pipe too. Do you have fabrication skills and tools? Welding and dremel experience are huge pluses in these motors. A lathe, pipe bender, and perhaps a mill (if you go extreme) will be assets, but not required, a lot can be done by hand to boost the power substantially. I actually have a checklist I like to give new modders:

#1: Determine what speed you want to go - set a goal, 80kph is basically the fastest anyone's ever been on these bikes (that I'm aware of). I'm aiming for 100kph as an end-goal but right now I'm shooting for 80 for safe-ish highway travels

#2: What loads are you planning for? - If you're a heavy dude (say, 250+), plan on hauling alot (maybe you have a bike trailer or a child carrier?), or have to deal with alot of hills, you'll want low end torque and may have to sacrifice top speed, depending on where you want that to be (50kph is commonly though to be the maximum safe speed, beyond that is 'scary', though I constantly rip around at 60, aiming for 80).

#3: Determine your gearing - Your top speed may result in different gearing, it's inadvisable to push these motors past 8500 RPM (about 71kph on a 36T, or 58kph on a 44T) This may also determine if you have to pedal to help it go from a stop. (this is null if you opt for a shift-kit, but I dont like them, if the motor produces too much power it can destroy the derailleur, not to mention adding parts to fail is never a good idea IMO)

#4: Are you aiming for long range or speed? - Obviously this will affect your milage, at 60kph I get around 80mpg, though others have achieved close to 145mpg, but at around 25kph.

All of these are comprimises through which you'll have to decide where you want to be, #4 will be set marginally by your carb jet, however it can affect the first 3. For example, running lean may net you more power and gas milage, but you may end up running dangerously hot.
Good info's. Learned a lot, thank you for spending your time helping me.
 

sboricic123

Member
Apr 15, 2013
172
3
18
Bailieboro, Ontario
Good info's. Learned a lot, thank you for spending your time helping me.
I purchased mine from Zoom Bicycles as well.
Before I started riding it I made sure all bolts were tight and used medium strength LocTite as recommended in the owner's manual. Including the cylinder head nuts.
I had to order a crankshaft seal due to gas/oil getting into the magneto. I'm just waiting for it to arrive and put it back together so I can use my bike again.
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
I purchased mine from Zoom Bicycles as well.
Before I started riding it I made sure all bolts were tight and used medium strength LocTite as recommended in the owner's manual. Including the cylinder head nuts.
I had to order a crankshaft seal due to gas/oil getting into the magneto. I'm just waiting for it to arrive and put it back together so I can use my bike again.
Pay extra attention to getting the magnet or gear back on straight and correctly. The little woodruff key can be a pain. Most people use a drop of crazy glue to hold it in the proper position, and be sure the rotor is corrctly replaced too. It won't run if you reverse the rotor and it looks very similar even if it's on wrong.