HI i just bought the sd stinger 66cc kit and the rear motor mount studs sheared off. I tried using an easy out set to take them out and snapped the easy out so now i have hardened steel stuck in there as well. so im thinking about trying to tap the metal beside the stud and making a mount for it. I was wondering if anyone knows if the metal around the studs is solid and how far i could tap into them before I drill through?any help would be greatly appreciated.
is the metal around the rear mounting studs solid
- Thread starter FreeToRoam
- Start date
doesn't much matter as there is very little chance of getting a decent mount in any other location - standard mount is meant to apply force reasonably close to centerline of motor & it is a LOT of force
depending on type of easyout, you may be able to keep tapping it back & forth to get it to loosen up enough to get it out (possibly a good welder could tack something onto the broken end??)
depending on type of easyout, you may be able to keep tapping it back & forth to get it to loosen up enough to get it out (possibly a good welder could tack something onto the broken end??)
yeah i i tried knocking it out with a chisel no luck though i was thnking about making a plate that would attach to the block with a bolt stickin out of it then drill a hole through the rear mount bracket and bike frame
Please don't drill through the bike frame. Especially for an engine mount. My advice would be to bite the bullet and take the engine to a machine shop to get the stud/tool removed.
I can't imagine how an easy-out broke if it was into the stud. Typically the studs aren't that tight, unless red Loc-Tite was used on it.
To answer your original question however, yes the case metal around the mount is solid but I don't have a clear idea of what your idea is. Just don't drill the frame. A single bolt to mount the engine isn't a good idea. It needs to be supported on both sides of the frame tube.
Could you provide us with some photos?
Tom
I can't imagine how an easy-out broke if it was into the stud. Typically the studs aren't that tight, unless red Loc-Tite was used on it.
To answer your original question however, yes the case metal around the mount is solid but I don't have a clear idea of what your idea is. Just don't drill the frame. A single bolt to mount the engine isn't a good idea. It needs to be supported on both sides of the frame tube.
Could you provide us with some photos?
Tom
Thanx for thr help and advice. i dont have any photos i was planning on using the large tube adapter plate they sent with the kit and modifying it. its a plate with three holes two bolts go to the stud holes the third long bolt goes through the bike frame i was thinking about drilling new stud holes in the motor then mounting the plate large bolt out i was gonna drill out the allluminum mount that goes around the frame and run the bolt through that then the frame and bolt it in the back should be solid.
i dont know if this will make sense
engine =|-C-O-
=two small bolts
|large frame mount
-large mount bolt
C c shaped stock aluminum mount
O bike frame
do you know how deep the stock studs go in i dont know how far i can drill in to the motor. also will drilling a hole in the frame weaken the frame that significantly?
i dont know if this will make sense
engine =|-C-O-
=two small bolts
|large frame mount
-large mount bolt
C c shaped stock aluminum mount
O bike frame
do you know how deep the stock studs go in i dont know how far i can drill in to the motor. also will drilling a hole in the frame weaken the frame that significantly?
is it too late to cut a slot with a dremmel and extract with a screwdriver? As Two Door said "Typically the studs aren't that tight, unless red Loc-Tite was used on it." huh?
i wish id tried that earlier but the easy out snapped off flush and i drilled into it a ways before it dulled my bit and started walking towards softer metal.
looking at it more i think i can drill new holes just below the stock stud position and use the stock mount with out the adapter plate. does anyone know the aproximate depth i can dill to? im thinking 3/4 of an inch
after much struggling, I've finally recalled one I saw way back
guy took a piece of thick angle iron &welded 2 bolts to it so they stuck out like the studs, then he drilled up into the bottom of where the rear mount would go, threaded those holes (for large bolts), and bolted the angle iron there - then he fastened it to the frame as normally done
not sure how it worked out for him, but looked like it should work
guy took a piece of thick angle iron &welded 2 bolts to it so they stuck out like the studs, then he drilled up into the bottom of where the rear mount would go, threaded those holes (for large bolts), and bolted the angle iron there - then he fastened it to the frame as normally done
not sure how it worked out for him, but looked like it should work
Thanks crassius i may use that if i can find some angle iron that will work for it. i dont know how much i trust my welder for the job though its a lil ac flux core wire welder i could probably countersink bolts then weld them. How heavy of angle iron did he use 1/4"? i may still try taping below the studs and lowering the stock bracket a 1/4" depending on what steel i can find. do you know about how far in the stock studs go? Thanx again for the help. I cant wait to get it back on the road.
1/4 inch should probably work - the resulting studs still need to be as close as possible to the centerline of the drive sprocket tho, while being mounted perpendicular to the frame - the rear mounting block can be trimmed down thinner if the angle iron setup gets a bit fat
this is too much hand work for me to do on a customer's bike by the hour, so I usually just put in a new motor
this is too much hand work for me to do on a customer's bike by the hour, so I usually just put in a new motor
